Good evening!
I´m owning a FOER5.2s which has some issues...
Does anyone here has knowledge about this machine?

Best, David

Hi, any advice on freeing up the steering on my PHEP 10? It has rapidly become so stiff that it is virtually impossible to turn.

Joule, Our truck had pretty much that exact problem, The fact the mast still works is telling you that the battery is fine - The issue is the card that control the drive for the wheels, the basicly need sending off for reconditioning/ repair

hi Baz.i am of need of some help here in the states.we have a lansing henley herculies 12.9. i,m trying to find differential unit or parts.it has a GNK heavy d60 axle assy.any parts or assemblies ,new or used that can be found would be great.i have been keeping the old girl running for the past 25 years.very good truck, just hard to find parts here.i have lots of info on the axle. if you can help ,please let me know.thank you.bob

Hi Baz , i hope you can help? you certainly know your stuff !
I am in the UK , I have a LB foer 15 48v forklift , all was working well and one day it just stopped , no forward or reverse , mast works fine and batteries are excellent , when you press accelerator in forward gear , something runs [ a motor ? ] but no movement , when you switch to reverse the same thing , but the truck tries to go back half an inch ?it sort of jerks ? kicks in briefly , then just the noise of a motor running[ spinning] and no further movement of the truck
i am really stuck ! i hope you can help , i would really appreciate your thoughts
best regards Joule

Hello There,
YOu seem like exactly the knowledge base I'm looking for to solverify a trio of issues with my businesses forklift and I was wondering if I could pick your brains.

1st the forklift was bought at auction and has always been missing an ID plaque so I've never been 100% sure of the model.
From visual similarities I believe it is a 1.5 tonne Foer 5.2 electric forktruck.
Some aspects to help with I'D are it is a 3 section mast and has hydraulic blade side shifting.

There is a serial number marked in pan on the side of the mast, I'm just not sure where to reference it against.

2. It has a drop in power when under use. Movement will start with no issues but quickly fall away until no motive power is there. The short term solution is that we pull on the handbrake lever and the release it a few seconds later and we will receive another burst of normal power. This is only for drive wheel power: all hydraulics work fine 100% of the time.

3. Steering has suddenlyrics become very laboured, similiar to driving a car without power steering, despite it previously working fine.

Looking forward to your reply, thanks in advance

Hi Sean, Sounds a bit like a cell failure. Any 'smelly' cells or fuming.? The voltage you give is high unless it has just come off charge and if you have a dodgy cell or cells, that voltage would drop alarmingly if you measured it whilst stalling the lift or even just raising the mast. (if you can). You can voltage test each individual cell and expect around the 2.05 volts or even a tad higher if it is a fairly new battery. Best voltage per cell would be 2.35 or thereabouts on a newish battery. If you have a cell that is extremely low, (1.5 or lower) test it again while stalling (say) the tilt and see if the voltage drops away rapidly... If it does, then that cell may have failed... It can be shorted out to restore full operation. You can short out maybe three cells before you have to replace them. More than 3 cells will upset the Charger and it may not turn off overnight... (A modern Charger would not even bother to turn on)

Other reasons for your fault.? Maybe check the line contactor. That is the one under the floor, right hand side and operates when the key is turned on. Look for stiff operation, (try by hand, it should be free). The NYlon Pivot rod for the moving contact arm gets stiff when warm. It can swell up and stick in the ally mounting bracket. When the moving arm drops out or is switched off at the key, it can stick in the not fully back position. When it IS fully back, it has to be in contact with the small rectangular contact block before the key will switch on again. Once it is cooler it may very well end up fully back against the rectangular Contact and the truck will work again.
Look also at the 'L' shaped moving contact on the line -contactor to make sure it is not loose with a burnt bolt holding it.
Sounds to me though that you have a voltage loss problem. If you can get it going, can lift the mast right to the top and then measure the voltage WHILST you are holding the lift lever fully back (Stalling the motor), watch the voltage and see if it drops away below about 65 volts.... (appx) if it does you are going to have to test each cell like I described above. Good luck and let me know how you go. I can offer more info with more info IF you see what I mean.....
If the keyswitch circuit has not been altered, you have to hold the key fully clockwise in its second position to get the Line - contactor in. When you let go of the key, it should spring back to its first position. If yours is still like that then try holding the key over to the second position WHEN the truck is playing up. This feeds the full battery voltage to the line-contactor and it will usually stay in all the time you are holding the key fully over.. (When the key is let go, there is only an 18 -20 volt supply to the line-Contactor which will HOLD it in once it is in. A weak or faulty battery reduces that 18 volt holding voltage to too low and the Line- Contactor will drop out. Good luck and dont forget to ask if you are still having problems.... Regards, Baz C.

Having problems with my FOER 9/60. I had just loaded a trailer and backed out and things cut out when I tried to move forward. After that it has started cutting out when the key is turned on. The contactor clicks but then cuts out and the battery gauge drops down to low. No forward or reverse and no mast movement either. After sitting for a bit the battery gauge is showing full charge again. Issue repeats if the key is turned on. Battery measures 76.5V. Any thoughts?

Hi Tansel a,

The 5.2s is a 48 volt truck so if you are reading 51 volts, all would seem to be well with the Charger and the battery. Make sure you still have around 48 volts with the battery disconnected from the Charger.
The 'clunk' you hear when you turn the keyswitch is the Line Contactor operating. This contactor connects battery Neg to the circuit. It is situated in the very worst place for checking and maintenance. It is under the battery, on the right hand side and about half way towards the rear of the truck. The Contactor is in a tin box with a cover that has to be lifted off, UPwards so the battery needs to be out of the way. For identification of the correct box, the battery grey plug Negative cable goes directly into it. Problems you will encounter with this unit::: The moving arm that carries the contacts pivots on a nylon shaft through an ally housing. The nylon swells and makes the contact stick. (wont pivot off to on and on to off. ) Check the Positive voltage AT the contactor coil at the pink wire.. Check for something like 46 volts when holding the key over onto its spring position, When switched to first position, expect to find about 18 volts at the Pink, not enough to operate contactor. (18 volts hold contactor 'in' once it has been brought in by the 46 + volts) If no 46+ volts, check first at keyswitch... for battery voltage and trace through switch to contacor. It is usually the sticking pivoting nylon rod that stops the contactor operating. When you switch the key off after a normal day, the Contactor moving arm (and that nylon rod) dropps out and comes into contact with a small, oblong contact in the off position. A sticking Contactor can prevent this 'Normally closed" contact from contacting and you get no keyswitch voltage.....
Finally, check the small glass fuses (2) in the front of the panel under the floor, on the right. One fuse feeds the Contactor Normally closed contact circuit.... Let me know how you go. Be safe if lifting the battery off..... I have jacked up just the right hand side to gain access BUT... BUT... BUT, the truck has to be very nearly against a wall on the left to stop the battery from sliding off sideways.... as you tilt the battery. best to move the whole battery sideways to the left and keep it level...... You need to clear the Line Contactor box and also need to be able to maintain battery plug into circuit.... You also need to JACK THE LEFT HAND WHEEL OFF THE GROUND, (OR BOTH). Left hand wheel because you are going to be working on your knees, on the Right and you dont want a turning wheel gouging out your trousers.... !!!

measureing the charge as its charging looks like its stuck on 51 v?? is this a 46 v unit or a 72v

can any one help from australia

lansing bagnall foer 5.2 flick the key would hera a clunk all good no more clunk i thought it was out of charge and put it on charge it was working fine when i parked it now i have no idea

Hi Baz,

I was wondering if you're still in the position of offering assistance to people who have faults with their Lansing Forklifts?

I work in a Warehouse, and the owners are cheap and not even based here, so I run it alone, and it's a mess. Nextdoor was selling their Forklift and so I couldn't help but buy it, knowing even though it's not in the best of shape.

It's an old FOER 9. The Handbrake is broken (appears to be the bolt at the base of the handle has snapped and doesn't allow any counter-leverage when pulling it) and the foot breaks don't work (No pressure, likely the fluid?).

Unfortunately, I'm unable to find any information, at all, related to this Forklift online. So I was hoping you might be willing to assist?

Because I'm unable to pay for a professional to come out at this point and service it. Especially considering, they're quoting me over the phone it'll cost thousands for the labor alone.

Anyways, hope you see this, would be awesome if you're able to help.
Kind Regards,
Aaron.

hi, just wondering if you found any info om my lansing e15 cheers

thanks for that any help would be great ,cheers

Hi Malc.
Oh dear... how embarrassing... All that 'sales' blurb and I dont think I can help... I haven't worked on an E15 and there are none here in paradise. The FRER 9.1 and FOER 15.1 were the last here although there are some Linde trucks about.
I will be at the workshop in the morning (Tuesday) so will check my paperwork to see if I have anything on an E15... I will let you know this time tomorrow for sure... Sorry. Cheers.. Baz c.

hi baz ive have a lancing E15
all hydraulics work but wont travel forward or backwards on the drive side its a 1991 model cheers

Hi Mick, Sorry for the slight delay. Summer Hols here so a bit of work on for the Forklift repairers. (Shut-down work) Anyway, good to hear from you. I can send you better 'suggestions' if you give me your email. Mine is chevron at pin dot co dot nz

A couple of things to check. Con 3 is the Line Contactor, the one that pulls in when you turn the key. Is that the one that drops out. ? If so, check the following. Firstly, I assume that the circuit is as it should be with Con 3 pulling in on the SPRINGloaded keyswitch position. Con 3 pulls in on 72 volts which is easilly measured at the coil of Con 3. measure with the key over on the spring position. When you let go of the key, the voltage at Con 3 coil drops to something like 22 volts or similar. Make sure you have those two voltages. I cant help but think that you may have a battery cell or two out and that test will show you what you are starting with at the coil. NOW. If you HOLD the key over on the spring position so that you have your 72 volts, keep holding it and then drive the truck or use the hydraulics to make the fault appear. If the fault does NOT appear.. it means that the CON 3 is dropping out through lack of battery voltage OR, that Con 3 coil is graqdually going short-circuit and needs a lot more voltage to hold it in. the 22 or so volts just wont hold it in when there is extra load on the battery (slope or hyd). There is nothing magical or electronic about the keyswitch Con 3 circuit, it is a plain old 'Apply voltage and it should work' circuit.
So, check the battery for all cells working. Check this with a load applied which should best be mast at full height and pull the lift lever and hold for 5 secs or so. Watch the battery 72 volts and see if it drops like a stone. (Expect the keyswitch to drop out of course, that is why we are here.... ) Get somebody to hold the keyswitch over so that you have a full 72 volts at the Con 3 coil while you do that test. As I say, it sounds like a battery voltage problem but the coil could be faulty. A coil needs MORE voltage to hold it in once it gets hot. A coil that would hold in on 20 volts cold will require maybe a minimum of (say) 30 volts to hold it in when it is hot. If yours IS getting hot, expect a short circuit starting to arrive.
Of course, if the circuit is not wired correctly and you dont have that lower 'hold-in' voltage in circuit, then the coil of Con 3 will have been overheating for a while and we are then back to the possible start of a short circuit. the 22 volts (or similar) that Lansing set their 'hold-in' voltage to, ensures that the coil of Con 3 stays cool over a long period. If this has been bypassed in the past, the coil may need changing. Let me know how you go with this. Dont get over complicated as it is just voltage with no PCB's interfering with the operation of the keyswitch. Cheers.

Hi Baz, hope you can help with this.I've got a Lansing FOER15.1 3.0PFL electric counterbalance truck 72v.
The truck will move from a standing start (either forwards or backwards) ok, but when more load is applied i.e. slight gradient or more speed, the contactor solenoid is releasing creating a short sharp arc and surge as the circuit breaks.You have to release the accelerator fully to be able to activate the solenoid again.Sometimes it will also happen if another function is used at the same time like tilt/lift.The control board is a HYTRON V if that is any help ? Cheers, Mick

Good one Kristjan. Glad you have it sorted. Thanks for letting me know, I was losing sleep.!!! Cheers. baz c.