I would have had you take voltage readings at the 2 term strips on the side of the card, which takes a few steps since what we would be looking for is the correct inputs to the card at the correct times, and I would have offered a quick way to bench test the SCRs to be sure they turn on and off correctly.
It may well be the card, and at least this way, the card should be eliminated as a problem.
Be sure to come on back and let us know what symptoms you have with the new card, it will likely need to be setup for this truck.
We can 'walk you through it', if you have the time to wait for a reply.

I relize that it may not be the card. The card has corrosion on it from getting wet. The screws going into it are rusted. I have checked the SCRs and contactors. I find no shorts or chasis grounds. I am kinda at wits end. I figured for $100 why not. I just don't know what to check next at this point.

I am sorry you felt like you had to get something on order, and while it is possible that your card caused the failures, it is not all that likely, for this set of failures, and more likely that your card is working correctly to prevent other problems like a run away condition, when it senses something else not working correctly.

Yes I didn't relize they where cables. There are 4 on the left side facing forward and 3 on the right side. I tested each of them to chasis and found nothing. Then I tested each one for resistance and each was around 0 or no resistance. I just ordered a replacement ev1 board as there is some corrosion on mine. I figure it is worth the $100 to just be sure that is not the issue.

you do have cables that run under/beside the battery to the drive motors from the controller and contactor panel in the back.
Thanks for correcting me about the short being only on the battery meg cable to the case of the battery, my misunderstanding of what was said.
as this is a 2 motor system, there should be 4 directional contactors, right and left pairs of forward and reverse, and they should pull in, as pairs, if the rear wheel is in the straight ahead position.

Just jacked the front wheels up and reverse is working as is forward. I noticed some sparks on the front forward contactor. It seems that the front 2 are wired together with a bar. I also noticed that it only mpt's going forward with the wheels jacked up.

That short was from the battery negitive terminal to chasis. I cannot find another short. With the battery removed I have no continuity to anything. There are no power cables under the battery only hydraulic lines. With the battery out of truck we can replicate the PMT and now have no reverse. I am not sure what to do next.

you -DO- have a short. and you found part of it when you found "negitive terminal to chassis show about 83.6 ohms", now trace where that 83 ohm short is coming from, then your problem may well go away.
You found -part- because it is a circuit, and you have only found part of the complete circuit. now disconnect the other end of the cable from the heat sink or if it has an insulated standoff and check each of the wires connected there. for ohms to frame. be sure to check the heat sink too, as it has a Mylar sheet insulation under it and has little plastic insulators for the mounting bolts that can cause this sort of short (you may only be chasing a wet wad of dirt, for all we know at this stage, the ohm meter will tell us where it is).
Reading -voltage- to frame has no value other than to tell what cell in the battery is the 'most shorted', your meter does not draw enough current to tell if the current being measured could have enough flow to do anything other than be measured as a 'potential', and even a 6 week old battery will show some voltage to frame, but not much OHMs.
All the cables under the battery, that are covered in white, will need to be replaced or at the very least cleaned and ohm checked. I would replace them all if you are going to keep this truck at least 1 year more, as you will have weird intermittent failures (a.k.a. 'wifs') due to the corrosion saturation of the insulation of these cables. clean out all the corrosion under the battery compartment and check for nicks and cuts where the cables touch the battery box sides and frame of truck
83.6ohms is much less ohms (more shorted) than the minimum of 100,000 ohms I (and GE) said you needed to check for.
Disconnect the cables (that you are reading less than 100k ohms) from every other connection. and check that cable again, and all the other cables it was connected to. Trace the short to it's connection to the frame.

Pulled out the battery today. Tons of white buildup. Hooked it up and it is the same. I was sure hoping for a short. or something easy to fix. We are going to try to equalize the battery and go from there.

You getting anywhere with this? Will it jump and shut down at 1/2 throttle? I had two service calls this week, one with a EV1 doing what yours does and one with a old EV100 with a slightly different problem. If you need further help e mail me and I will send you a list of things to check to try to help you figure out what's wrong.

The weird thing is other then that I can't find any shorts. And negitive terminal to chasis show about 83.6 ohms.

tested across leads 36v. positive lead to chasis is 21v :(

no short bv - to frame, no short bv + to frame, no short AL1, AL2, SL1, SL2, AR1, AR2, SR1, SR2, P1, P2, PS1, PS2, T2 to frame. no short to frame in the back up alarm circuit or headlights.
no short to frame.
The battery WILL have some leakage to frame and it will be readable by voltage with most volt meters, but in a good battery this will not have enough current to light a 12 volt sealed beam light bulb from either battery cable to the frame of the truck.

specequip, look at the hour meter diodes if what Ed advises you to do checks out electrically clean with no short BV NEG to frame.

specequip, your truck has a short T2 to battery NEG. The card is doing it's job. The logic card needs some inputs; first on the list all control switches must close in a proper order, next the PMT circuit in the card is looking at the power circuit to see if any shorts are present T2 to POS and a bridge circuit in the card is comparing the voltages T2 to POS with T2 to NEG. When the KSW is turned on these voltages should both be 18 volts with a 36 volt truck. To confirm T2 to NEG will be the other half of the remaining 36 volts.

my bet, you are going to NEED to be able to pull this battery out. you will need to clean under the battery compartment and to take a good eyeball the cables.
however if you find the truck really is electrically clean, then checking the inputs to the logics is the next step.
I would also say, that it may be from the explanation of the symptoms, that what the problem is, could well be related to the accelerator box and linkage,where the pot is not operating but the start switch and 1a switch is, but checking the inputs will tell us that..

I will do that now. I do not have any way to get the battery out of the truck as it is our only forklift. It is a good idea to check the cables. There are not that many of them.

if I may step in.
I would suggest that what you do is start at the beginning, and make no assumptions.
To start in the beginning of this unit's troubleshooting procedures (the book says 'before any other troubleshooting') would be to start with the truck drive tires off the ground, a good and well charged battery, and battery disconnected, and to check each and every power (not the small control wires, but the heavy cables) cable on this truck, and to insure that none have less than 100k ohms resistance between any part of the cable and the frame of this truck (NO GROUNDS). Trace and isolate any place you have less than 100k ohms, this includes the power cables that run under the battery compartment. Replace any cables that are cracked or seem to have the insulation 'swollen' or soaked from contamination (either oil or battery acid).
Once you are positive NO power cable on this truck has less than 100K ohms resistance to frame with battery disconnected, remove the battery from the truck (do not set on forks) and try to see what happens when you try and drive. With the battery electrically isolated from the truck frame, if you still have the same symptom, then the rest of the suggestions are the next steps, but get it 'clean' first.
if it still is the same, the next steps will involve you giving us the voltage reading on the 2 strips of screwed in wires on the EV100 card (they are number l for left and r for right and then 1 to 9, and what we will want to know are the voltages (with respect to battery negative) all these, but the correct answer will change depending on what step you are in in the normal start-up sequences.

mrfixit thanks I may take you up on that. I tested #1 rec and it tests fine as well as #2 and #5. I did the voltage test between t2 and positive.
key off 36.6v
key on 21v
creep 34.5v
triped 20.4 v
high gear 0 volts
It was hard to get it to engage high gear for some reason.

specequip, I have used parts, that work, for EV-1, like a #1 scr and control card that you can "borrow" if that's a way you want to try fixing it. My e mail is in the signature of my member details