We have a TW40 3 wheel forklift and it devloped an issue where it jumps and then nothing. It will basically move 2 feet on the motor jump then its dead. If you try to creap it in does nothing until you are far enough in to engage the motor which dies instantly. You can still shift if forward and reverse the reverse beeper comes on. TO get it to jump another few feet you have to put it in nuetral and cycle the key on and off. We are guess it is the throttle but I am not sure what to test or check 1st. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Showing items 41 - 60 of 94 results.
specequip, your truck appears to be having a problem with it's voltage split. With the vehicle's drive wheels off the ground, disconnect the battery from the truck. Discharge the speed controllers capcitor item 14 with a DVOM. Once the capacitor is discharged place the leads of the DVOM T2 to POS as shown on pp 24 of the GEK publication, turn on the KS, place the directional control in either FWR or REV with brake pedal up, park brake off, seat occupied and the accelerator depressed from low speed to high. Note what the voltage readings are throughout. Post the results.
I just don't know how you guys do this! What a frusturating machine to work on. I like odb2 where it tells you where to look. The manual states take the wires off r5 and r6 and test r6 to ground for ohm. There is no wires on r5 and r6 doesn't register anything to chasis. So frusturating.
From what I can tell there is no double tripping at all. With no load everything trips once and then when the pmt happens it kills everything until the key reset. An interesting thing last night I tested the bad rec 2 with a test light and 12v and it tested fine. The recs might all be fine as it turns out. Does this change anything? I am going to test the pedal when someone gets in this morning as it takes 2 people.
specequip, If you are looking at publication GEK-40722 pp 36 will be pp 22. Are the FWR/REV contactors tripping or is just the high speed (1A) contact? Are FWR/REV single or double tripping?
pulled the thermal resistor it measures 180 ohms at room temperture. I heated it with a lighter and ohms increased to about 220 ohms so that is just fine!!
Ok will do. I cannot find page 36 in the fsip manual. it only goes to page 35. I will read over 18-22 again. the Tech at FSIP says to check out rec 1 which is the thermal protector or rec 1. I found a part number of 194b6376g1
specequip, go to the GE Manual pp 18-22 and 36 for a description of Oscillation card and it's tune up procedure.
From what I can tell the two tallest contactors work as they should nothing cycles or untrips until the PMT. On a side note. I just jacked up the trucks front wheels and everything works as it should with no load or the wheels jacked up. No issues in reverse or forward. It will only PMT is you quickly floor it in reverse or forward. If you just creep it to start the wheels then floor it it goes as it should or are linear with the pedal movements. Load it the common factor? What part of the unit measures load on the wheels?
I dont mean to sound rude here but...
everything you need to identify components and troubleshoot that panel are in the manual you got from fsip. As you can see from this information there are 3 types of panels EV1 used,
there are diagrams identifying the components and troubleshooting instructions by symptom.
If you cannot achieve a successful diagnosis from this information then you should hire a professional to do it for you before you waste more money and time.
specequip;
They are the two tallest contactors in the power distribution compartment. They are setting side by side and have a common copper bus bar that is tying them together
Hmm which one is the directional contact. I know we sequenced them with the wheels in the air and nothing opened then closed until the jump.
They trip and remain open until it jumps then they do nothing.
specequip;
Look closely, does the truck's directional contact trip once (open and remain open) or trip twice (open-close and reopen). The logic card would be the last item to question. The tripping of the contactors, the hum, and the ability to reset raises some doubt that you have a bad program card. Once we know what kind of tripping action you are getting we can define if you have a problem in the charge up circuit or if you have a voltage split problem.
Flight systems will sell me a reman controller for around $120 plus shipping. and core is 150. My board looks to have gotten wet and there is some rust and corrosion. I was thinking of bitting the bullet and getting it as it rules out the controller. The tech tested everything he could on the system but could not test the board. I spoke with him and he said to check the rec 2 I just installed. He said he has seen a few that where bad from the get go. The cap you are refering too is on the circuit board of the ev1 or in the area of the scr or contactors?
Kevin, he did, and they charged him $350 to tell him it was a bad #2 scr !! Clean the crap off the circuit board with a tooth brush.
if it hums but the hum does not speed up when you start pressing the pedal right after you make the start switch in the accelerator control (creep mode) then it sounds to me like the pot circuit (a bad pot maybe).
What does the 1C cap look like? is it bulged out any around the terminals on top? you may want to check the cap and make sure its charging and discharging correctly. There is a test proceedure in section 4 of that troubleshooting guide that tells you how to do this.
one other thing that just came to mind that i have ran into before is the plug on the back of the card, make sure all the wires are connected good and you can also put a slight twist on the blades to make a more positive connection. You can remove the plastic cover off the plug and see where the wires connect through the plug.
I wouldnt say its the card just yet,sounds more like a component problem,with out being able to test them tho its going to be a long process,might be worth the effort to have a technician come and look at it.
I have read that ev1 manual although I will go through it again. It shows some signs of huming then it jumps. You can be a 1/2 throttle and it will jump. Yes it shuts down immediatly after the jump. Will any EV1 card work? Or do I have to get the correct series?
Does it show any signs of humming or pulsing when creeping? When does it jump? Only when you floor it or will it jump at 1/2 throttle? When it jumps does it immediatly shut down? Look up your symptoms on the EV1 troubleshooting chart. If a new control card is needed, a rebuilt one is reasonable. There is really no way to test it except to try it in another truck.
have you looked through the EV1 troubleshooting section in the EV1 manual?
go to fsip and check that out
it mentions in its troubleshooting section about symptoms such as what you are having and has some key points to check on the panel. i'm sure it would be of some great help for you to read this.
ht tp://ww w.fsip.biz/Documents/EV1.pdf
(remove the spaces i put in the url to make it work)
good luck :o)
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