Hi All,
I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.
Truck was hard faulting Code 23. I checked battery condition. OK. No shorts to chassis. Motor tested out ok. Isolated motor cables and tested no shorts found. Q1 tested good on diode test. Rec1 tested good. Checked Insulator at Heatsink. OK. Checked all fuses OK. Contactors OK. Performed Test A01 and got steady 6 volts. Couldn't figure out where the connector was for Test A10. I was kind of spinning my wheels so i made a few phone calls and it was recommended to me to try a power card. Customer had a known good one(my instinct said this could go bad). I installed it and now the truck doesn't power up(re-checked hook ups and all correct). Installed old card and same thing. Checked wiring schematic and was wondering if the F1 fuse on the filter assembly was like the filter on the Reach's? I've had the fuse pop on the reach's and they won't power up. If it does the same job would anyone know where it would be located? Of course this happens on a Friday afternoon(Murphy's Law) LOL
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Jay
Showing items 1 - 16 of 16 results.
Hi All,
Sorry for the late update. Took the customer awhile to decide what to do. They ended up giving me the go ahead to replace the Q1 and REC2. That did the trick. I suppose if I had a handy man I could of pin pointed the issue right away. Just not sure if it's worth investing in one. Most of the trucks I look at these days are AC and everything is pretty well plug and play.
I'd also like to thank you guys for pointing me in the right direction.
Thanks,
Jay
Hi LaGrange,
Sorry about that. For some reason I couldn't enter the Technical Arena.
Anyway, my email is [email address removed]
thank you.
Q1 can test good but still be bad.
It's just a transistor bank glued together.
I don't have your email address; I meant that if you give it to me, I can email to you those old posts.
Have you verified that the power cable is correctly ran through the current sensor on the power card? I'm just going off memory not the manual.
I found 2 old posts regarding Code 23.
I can send them to your email address, if you want them.
Hi LaGrange,
I have a manual and was following the procedures. Q1 and Rec1 passed the diode test. C1 and R2 passed as well. I Removed the Heatsink and checked insulator. It was good. Ran test A01 was steady at 6 volts. I need to run Tests A10 and O14 again to double verify. No shorts to chassis. Motor tested out good. Motor cables tested out good as well.
Thanks again for the help.
Jay
The Q1 and 1 Rec are on the heat sink block. The Q1 kit includes the 1 Rec. More than likely you will receive an updated Q1 transistor with an additional red wire on it. I wouldn't replace the Power board unless you had traction motor field fault(code 29).
I would replace the Q1 and 1 Rec and double up on the heat sink insulator. Just verify you are over a 100k on your shorts to frame. This code is associated with the traction motor armature current. I'm assuming you already checked your brushes and commutator condition.
Code 23 usually is the Q1 transistor failed. I have had them fail on all the different Easi lifts (SA, SB, REACH, OPC). They sell the Q1 as kit because the 1 rec would take out the Q1 and technician's were only replacing the Q1 having the new Q1 fail. It is recommended to place both at the same time.
I never heard of anyone having to replace Q1 or a Rectifier on a Raymond board.
I can't say for sure, that if you replace those parts that you'll end up fixing that code 23.
You might have a bad Transisitor, behind the Circuit Boards.
They're not easy to access.
If the Rectifier or Q1 are easier to access, then you can start with those.
If you don't have a Code 23 Diagnostic Procedure, I can send it to you via email.
Hi LaGrange,
The fuse did the trick. Unit now powers up. Thank you. Though I still have the issue of the hard faulted code 23. Would you suggest quoting out a new powercard, Q1 and Rec1 even though they passed my tests though not with a handyman as I'm not in possession of one.
Thanks,
Jay
Fuse #17 is very small and it's near the bottom of the TM.
You have to remove it & test for Resistance.
Hi LaGrange
I did have voltage to some of the fuses on the Tractor Manager. I'll check for fuse 17 just to be on the safe side. It's weird that there was no activity at all when I swapped cards. You'd figure I would of heard something initially on key on.
Anyway, I'll check and keep you posted.
Thanks,
Jay
I have worked on Easi OPC's many times; I'll help you as much as I can.
You'll need to locate & remove & test Fuse #17 (2 amp), located on the Tractor Manager.
Also, perform volts test for the fuses that are also located on the Tractor Manager.
Let me know if this helps.
Hi Service_T
Yes I tried that. Problem is the unit won't even power up now. Nothing on the display.
Thanks,
Jay
Check your battery voltage loaded. I've had a bad battery cause a code 23. Hook up another battery to it.
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