in my last post, i was having you go through the traction circuit looking for something open.
Measuring from the battery positve, ideally you should see <.5 volts to the first post (the one directly hooked to the batt pos.)
Going to the a2 post on the motor, you should see upwards of 6-10 volts, IF everything was working properly.(if the motor was working, then a magnetic field builds up, and creates resistance which will show as a voltage drop accross the load)

Since we've established that the motor does not work, even when shorting across the pmc, we are searching for an open circuit somewhere in the traction motor cct.

When you go across the open you should see battery voltage. Basically one side will be battery pos. and the other will be the neg, they just don't connect together.

So you were following the battery positive from the battery, all the way back to the m- post on the pmc controller.

If you saw roughly zero volts all the way there, then the problem must be on the negative side. The only negative side that could cause this, is the neg cable from the pmc to the standoff (my logic being that lift still works, so the battery is at least sort of ok, and the battery neg gets to the stand-off, because that's where they join together with the pmc cable and the lift motor neg cable)

When I say measure from the battery pos, I mean litterally from the positive cable where it enters the jack.

To check the negative, do the same, start at the negative cable.
Work backwards to the pmc, to the m- to the contactors, back through the fields, back to the contactor, back through the armature and to the battery positive.
Whereever you find 0 volts on one test, then battery volts on the next test in line, the problem lies between the 2 test points.

If you are not closing the direction contacts when loading (ie. shorting the batt neg to the m-) the you'll see the 12volt drop across the contacts.

If the problem is the traction fuse, then you'll see 12 volts across the fuse when you try to load the motor.

You really have to go step by step.

Most electric guys could find your problem in 2-3 minutes (not a cut or anything), and all they would do is start at one end, and go through the circuit till they find the problem.

Sometimes you are lucky and start at the right end, but most of the time you work our way through the whole **** thing before you find the problem.

So what my whole rant is saying, is that when you finally see battery volts, you've just passed the problem.