here is a test for the transistor www.forkliftaction.com/forum/thread.asp?trid=19916
make sure the drive motor and cables are good.

there are tests for the power card/system card/regen but way too much for me to list you have to get the service manual if you want to make headway.

this is complex, so if you are not familiar with electronics you might want to hire someone to repair it and express your interest in the matter, he/she may teach you while your paying them. I am willing to help more.

Stam et all,
as a layman and not an electrical engineer type, can you walk me through a few steps so i can work our the Code 23? It would be most helpful for advice one step at a time and i can report back my findings until a solution is found.
This would be most helpful.
I did remove the heat sink and repaired the gaskets which did rub through in one corner.
thanks guys!

Under the heatsink is 3 layers of thermal paper. It is there to insulate the heatsink from the chassis as the heatsink has full drive amperage traveling through it.
The heatsink compound is used under the q1 transistor to prevent it from welding (melting) itself to the heatsink.

That previous post about q1 never blowing and the card always being the culprit is BS! Stupid rookie 5 years in my ***. What, were the first 4 watering batteries??? All the q1 is is just 8 mosfets glued in a plastic housing you dodo and your gonna say mosfets never blow... I'm wowd by your knowledge... not. Ez is super sensitive to static hahaha I have seen so many forks arc out to racks over the years and all on running trucks. They are not. I have never heard of a battery creating static that's new to me also please explain how that is possible I would love to hear that story.

guys, is this gasket to prevent any conductivity? why is heat sink compound required. and do i apply it on all sides, as my gasket is three layers. by the way, there is a hole rubbed through on one corner.

thanks for all the posts, it is very helpful as i work through the code 23

Power card is always the culprit. Q1 is a very tough solid state device that never fails by itself , 5+ years working on Raymond's I came across this issue multiple times. The aluminum heat sink block that Q1 is mounted on could be shorted to the frame. It has a special foil to prevent it but if the screws come loose or were ever removed there is a good chance it was damaged. I always installed rubber washers underneath it instead of the foil. That is not recommended by the factory but it works alot better especially if u have holes or cracks in ur floors. Covering the power card completely front and back with dielectric grease helps in preventing shorts in the circuits from moisture or dirt particals. The EZ trucks are super sensitive to static electricity so make sure u replace drag cables or static straps. Bad batteries also induce alot of static into the frame. I had customers remove , pressure wash and paint with rubberized undercoating if they did not change batteries and never have code 23 come up again.

Thank you for replying! Our tech came out and told me that there were two cards that were fried, a power card and another card (but I don't recall what he called it?). He said that the Q1 tested fine, but that he would bring a new one with him just in case it did not test okay after the new cards were installed. We have recently replaced the drive motor, and brake so I am sure I can safely exclude those. I know we have replaced cards before, but probably about 10+ years ago.
Thanks again for your input, I do appreciate it!

I have had scenarios where the truck just needed a q1 kit. Others where it needed that along with battery service, motor cables, drive motor, drive brake repaired, powercard and snubber parts. There is no way to know without proper troubleshooting and even then some cards just have to be changed or swapped to another truck to verify operation.

Hello All! I'm new here and just need some help. Came in today to a Code 23 on our Raymond EZ (1993 model). Burned electrical smell from front left and rear right corners (positions from right and left if operating it). Operator said that the truck sped up so he took his foot off pedal to get it to stop.
Just need to know worst and best case on what to expect the repairs to be, parts wise? Something small, or something major? I don't work on it myself but would like assurance that everything is being checked by our service partner as this is our only truck, and we need it fixed right the first time. Thanks in advance!

tried a power card?
ohmed out the armature motor and cables?
TM1 and 2 can cause!
test rec3, and two resistors?
Q1 and req 1 are usely the cause!
shorts to frame on motor, heat sink, horn, or anywhere?

power cable going the correct direction though the power card doughnut?
poor connections?

The black box is the Q1. you need to test this Main transistor (Q1) with the DIODE tester function of the multimeter as it "works" the transistor. All other diodes need to be checked the same way. On diode test, you look for "open" or zero in one direction, and.3 to.5 volts in the other direction. A good diode or Q1 will show this with the leads one way, then reversed. A burned heat sink insulator is common and should always be checked on code 23. Remove the heat sink and check the insulator for cuts or holes. You should get a Raymond manual

thanks. what would be the q1

Yes the rec is the black assembly.. Should read open one way, closed the other

I have read through these posts. I am not a Raymond guy. I have a code 23, and after investigation the drive motor brushes were worn but only half of the brushes were. I had the motor freshened and still had code 23. I have 1 ohm on the 2 resisters, 3.5 volts through my diode. Checked all cables and checked the heat sink insulator. Can someone help me with the raymond term, is the rec the black gate on the heat sink, I checked that, 50 ohms between the ground and gates I guess, and not sure what the q1 is. On the heat sink I have 24 volts with my positive lead. Hope you raymond guys can help me out.

Check your rec and make sure you used the right one. The reach truck rec and the order picker rec are backwards. Do you have OP parts stock?

2 quick checks are brushes in drive mtr. ( if you replace, clean and ppolish armature ) and thermal pad at bottom of heatsink (check for tears or small holes) when you reapply dow corning heatsink compound, apply extremely thin.

I once had a large washer that had fallen and fell against the heatsink creating a short. Removed washer, quick fix.

good luck.