this is normal Steve, it requires vac on that hose to allow fuel to flow. no vac and no fuel is correct and what you wanted to see.
I would offer that the correct path would be to start at the beginning and confirm that #1 spark plug is firing when the crankshaft is just before tdc by looking in the distributor with the cap off and confirm the rotor location in relation to the mark on the crankshaft pulley. and then confirm or do a complete tune-up
Looks like the problem is in the vaporizer since I have tested the vacuum lock out assembly and it releases liquid over through the inter connecting line each time I crank the engine over.
However, when I remove the gas line from the vaporizer outlet, to the mixer (carb) throttle assembly, I get absolutly nothing now.
Originally, I was getting some flow because I it did fire and run a little. Now, I get nothing.
Might be time to order a rebuild kit.
I did find some operating description online with parts break down. Just in case the kit doesn't provide any.
Thanks
Steve
Hi first you shouldn't be getting any frosting on components at all this usually points to either a leak of if its the vaporiser a cooling fault. First thing to check is that coolant is getting too and passing through the vaporiser if it isn't the vaporiser will frost over then freeze up if this is happening this will give the problem you have ive had water pump impellors fail that give this fault. I don't know if you can buy kits over there for the J type impco but if you do stip it there is a strip valve with a rubber seal in the middle these are prone to failure and you wont get it to start if it is they fail due to the body wearing where poppet that works on the hp diaphragm wears. My advice if you cant get a repair kit would be to fit an imcpo k type to it.
Steve with known fuel in the lines, take the large LPG hose going from regulator/vaporizer to mixer off the mixer. With fuel shut off or disconnected from tank, spin engine over. If fuel comes out then you have a vaporizer that needs replaced. The frost you are concerned of is evap of LPG. Check coolant level also. If unit has vaccum lockoff then check for LPG coming out of vacuum line on lockoff.
Thanks for that tip. I did try that and since the tank valve seems to have a leak thru, even when turned off, I think I still have pressure until I disconnect the tank coupling. Something I will deal with when I refill the next time.
Now, onto the LP gas fuel system.
From the quick research on Google, it seems the be made up with a converter, mixer and the carburetor.
If my problem is flooding, then where should I start? Hmmm!
I would assume the liquid fuel would be converted to gas through evaporation in the converter and that process would account for the frost I observed on that case, since the coolant temp wasn't yet high enough to assist in that process.
Not sure what the Mixer does??
As I search ebay, I see there are parts kits for the carboretor but nothing for the mixer or converter. I don't see any adjustments on either of the latter. The carburetor only has an Idle adjustment. Three is some kind of adjustment in the lower carburetor mount plate that looks like it not be "field serviceable" (seal wired).
I'm going to go back to google and search for other trouble shooting help.
Still hoping someone here will have some "Sage" advice?
Thanks
Steve
Your statement about "frost on the propane stuff" makes me think that the J-model fuel regulator (what the coolant hoses run to) is leaking liquid propane into the intake. What you think is acting like it's out of fuel is in reality probably "over-fueling". I have always found that a simple way to test this is to shut off the supply valve on the propane cylinder and see if the engine begins to run better as the fuel in the hose is consumed.
If the condition is due to over fueling, the engine may seem to run "about right" just before it uses up all the fuel in the hose and dies.
I just checked and verified that the plug wires are correct.
Now, I have to verify that the last person to have the distributor out, put it in correctly.
Steve
And yes the firing order is 1-3-4-2
Have an email to post in your profile has to be as mine is as this site strips out readable addresses
I just checked the distributor and the mount/adjusting bolt was loose.
Now I have reservation and think this problem is timing or in the ignition system. I tried varying the distributor within the adjustment range, but not positive results. Then I began to wonder about the plug wires and realized I don't know the firing order of this 4Y engine. Toyota 4 cylinders have had of 1342 or older Corona's were 1243.
I checked for the firing order on the engine but didn't see it on the manifold.
Since the distributor mount bolt was loose, I suspect the whole unit might have been removed and re-installed. Hmmm, could be of a tooth when re-installed. Another possibility.
Without a manual, I'm going to have to play around with this one.
Steve