Another surprise. If drive wheels slip even a little, the forklift shuts down and I have to turn key off then on again to restart any activity. Is this normal?

Thanks for the follow up.
I am glad you have gained some basic knowledge on your EV100 panel.
It is actually not a bad system.
IMO....These older SC units are still some solid machines for lighter duty applications on a budget.

Installed a new controller everything works as it should. Thank you guys for all your help. This is been a learning experience.

Ordered a new card/controller. Will post results as soon as it is received and installed.
Thanks for all your help
Mike

Mike,
Thanks for the checks.
It looks like the inputs needed are there except for the potentiometer circuit.
EV100 will not close a directional contactor if it sees less than 2vdc on TB11-1 before the accellerator switch is closed.
If you verified the pos/neg inputs at the PCZ plug, and the pins on those two wires look OK, then you can assume the card has failed.
The OE dealer can get you the correct card by the serial number. It will need programmed and the OE is always a good bet especially for warranties.
The OE will not likely be able to program it without installing it on your truck.
Your local indy shop SHOULD be able to set up the card if they have a LX handset and have the documentation for the correct settings. It is worth asking imo.
You can buy a handset and do this yourself, but the cost of one probably exceeds calling out a tech.
We face the same scenario in the automotive world today. Parts need programmed, so we either buy a tool or let the shops program them.
The OE may provide you the settings if you buy a remanufacured card from them.
There are also companies such as Flight Systems who do offer repairs on electronics. They have access to schematics and functions/ flowchart diagrams on their site.
You may want to contact them and weigh sending your card in for repair if they still offer that service.

8/26/2023
Here are the measurements I made this morning.


PCZ Plug
White wire = +36.91. (VOM negative lead on battery negative. VOM positive lead on white wire.))
Brown wire = -36.91 (VOM negative lead on battery positive. VOM positive lead on brown wire.) (-.007 if VOM negative lead on battery negative and positive lead on brown wire.)

TB11 screw measurements with key on, operator in seat and accelerator in creep speed except for No.1 screw which was measured in both creep and full throttle mode. Battery voltage= 36.89
#1 Screw Wire disconnected : creep mode 0.613, full accelerator mode 0.008. (Not the near expected 8 volts)
#1 Screw Wire connected 0.412
#2 36.26
#3 36.26
#4 36.33
#5 36.64 (lever in forward)
#6 36.67 (lever in reverse)

I went through the Crown 35SSCT-S trouble shooting diagrams. Based on that and the measurements shown above, I believe the problem is the control card. You mentioned the replacement card had to be programmed for my particular unit. Do I need to contact a Crown Dealer for this service?

Thanks again for your help.
Mike Risinger
[email address removed]

Mike,
You need to make 1 more check to verify the card has positive and negative supplied to it.
The pcz plug is the far right plug on the card with multiple colored wires. The white wire is positive input and the brown wire is negative.
If those are present, then you can assume the card is inoperative due to no output for the potentiometer con TB11-1.
There can still be a switch input issue on TB11- 2, 5 &6.
That is why I asked for the checks on TB11 1 thru 6 while requesting fwd travel to verify the potentiometer circuit, the seat, brake, accelerator switch, and f/r inputs are correct.
Keyed on voltages do not verify their potential to go to bv when requested

8/25/2023.


Battery voltage 37.1.

TB11 screw voltages.
No. 1 Screw wire connected.010. Accel. down
No. 1 screw wire connected 0.475 Accel. up.
No. 1 screw wire disconnected 0.623 Accel. Up
No. 1 screw wire disconnected 0.621 Accel. Down
Not the 8 volts you listed as correct
DOES THIS MEAN I NEEDS NEW CARD??
No. 1 101 (brown wire) accel. Up 0.007
No. 1 101 (brown wire) accel. Down 0.617
No. 2 accel. up 27.50
No. 2 accel. down. 27.50
No. 3 36.45
No 4. 36.45
No. 5 11.73 (R selected)
No. 6 11.72 (F selected)

"Iirc, you can remove the wire from TB11-1 (#29) to verify the card output to the potentiometer. This is around 8vdc."
I'll do that this morning and report results.

TB11-5 and TB11-6 were measured independently with the F-R control lever first in forward, then in the reverse position. When 5 measured 11.5, 6 measured almost zero and vice-versa.

Mike,
If that is measured voltage with just the key on only, there are a couple of issues.
TB11-1 is a potentiometer circuit.
It should be ~4vdv with the foot off the accellerator smoothly sweeping to under 1vdc as the pedal is depressed.
Iirc, you can remove the wire from TB11-1 (#29) to verify the card output to the potentiometer. This is around 8vdc.
TB11-5 and TB11-6 should not be showing a bleed voltage on them simultaneously.
The voltages someone supplied to you for reference are basically correct.
I would still like you to measure the 6 TB11 screws with an operator in the seat asking it for very slow( creep) travel.

8/24/23 (negative is battery ground wire)
TB11 screws w/ key on.
1. 0.084
2. 11.53
3. 35.84
4. 35.81
5. 11.52
6. 11.54

You stated "Terminal 1 should be between 3.0 and 3.7 volts with the key on and the control handle in neutral. Terminals 2, 3, and 4 must be battery voltage to travel. Terminal 5 must be battery volts to go forward. Terminal 6 must be battery volts to go reverse. If you don't have battery volts on 2,3, 4 and at least either 5 or 6, it is not going to travel."

My 8/23/23 measurements show only half battery voltage on 2, 5, and 6.
Also, 1. Only 0.084volts at screw 1. not the 3.0 to 3.7 volts you stated as normal.
I'm about convinced the "card" is the problem. Where can I order one. What is the estimated cot for a new card that is programmed or my Model and Serial number.

"""'

"The drive function is inoperative."
Understood....when troubleshooting, TB11 checks are made requesting travel.
This verifies the inputs to TB11 are correct.
It is a good starting point.

Thanks for the info. I learn something everyday. I'll recheck using the neg. battery cable for ground and report my findings tomorrow.
The drive function is inoperative.

On Crown electric lifts, you do not use the frame for the negative when troubleshooting as it will not work.
Always use a negative cable connection.
Grounds to the frame be it positive or negative are not desirable, even though it is common.
Batteries are commonly guilty of bleeding voltage to their case which transfers to the trucks.
That explains your vom readings in your reply on your TB11 inputs.
Use a proper negative, and try the TB11 inputs again.
You need to block up the drive wheels, verify the steer wheels are straight ( safety reasons) and have an operator ask it for fwd travel (creep speed)

TommyFrank4. Thanks for your advice. Problem is nearest Crown shop according to the site you sent is in Arlington, TX. Three hours from my location.

By the way. The negative values were not due to swapping DVOM leads. Negative lead was clipped to a frame bolt hole and positive lead was moved from card screw to card screw. Something else is reversing the voltage

With the age of this lift having a crown technican may be the best. Check out this link to find a local dealer: https://www.crown.com/en-us/forklift-dealers.html?countryCode=US®ion=TX&latitude=31.9685988&longitude=-99.9018131

The contactor may not spark when closing. That only would happen if there is a large load in the circuit, like trying to run the drive motor.

Even if you got a little water on the electrical parts it could cause them to short. If the battery was disconnected from the truck it would be less likely but still possible to short something out.

Negative values just means you swapped your positive and negative lead on you dvom. You can just ignore the negative mark when testing. If this is an electrical issue, I would place your negative lead on the negative battery cable and start testing for voltage at the drive motor terminals and work your way back to battery positive testing all the components in that circuit. This will show you were you loose voltage.

This is definitely something that is difficult to diagnose as there could be lots of issues in the power circuit or even the control circuit. My best recommendation is to have a technican come out. It should not be a difficult fix for an experienced technican as I deal with these issues all the time. The only issue is they are diffrent from truck to truck.

Buster and TommyFrank, Thanks to both of you for your responses. Below is the info you requested or answers to your questions.

E100
Model 35SCTT-S. Serial No. 1A150432
Battery voltage is present on one side of the drive contractor, but manually closing this contractor does not cause the points to spark. Points are in good condition. Leads me to believe the circuit is open downstream of this switch.

The way I washed off the battery pack, I don't believe water got on the front or rear electrical components. In any case, it has been 102 to 107 degrees every day here since I washed the battery pack over 3 weeks ago. If any got wet they would surely be dry by now.

The voltages on the Card TB-11 screws 1 to 6 are as follows. (Key on and Battery voltage = 36.78
1. -23.78 2. -12.59 3. +11.70 4. +11.81 5. -23.82 6. -12.58.
I don't understand the negative values.
I was told the voltage with key on should be: 1. =3 TO 3.7, 2,3,4 = battery voltage and 5 or 6 = battery voltage only when Forward or Reverse is selected.

I have had two technicians from a local forklift company come out and work on the Crown forklift. Neither one had the expertise to diagnose the problem. The first one stayed about 1.5 hours and the second 2.5 hours.
Both left without providing any helpful information much less fixing the problem. I will try a few checks with ANY INFORMATION info y'all provide and if unsuccessful, will locate a Crown Forklift shop and take my Crown to them.
Thanks again for your help and epertise.
Mike Risinger

Mike,
You need to provide a little more information to get accurate advice.
Remove the "Crown" cover on the rear of the counterweight and post what system it has. (IE...EV1, EV 100).
You could also post the serial number, but some do not have access to the panel / serial data and its better imo to just look when posting on a forum.
The early generations were not very tolerant of water and gets wet very easy especially when washing off the battery without removing it from the truck.
You may get lucky by unplugging the battery, removing the card, and blow it dry inside. Then leave a fan on the panel to dry it completely. In my experience it is a slim chance of success but worth trying.
On the older units, if the panel trips, it will not close the directional contactors until you reset it by disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. I have to assume you have already performed this several times.
Most times the control card gets damaged from being wet and having the battery connected and may require replacement.
If it doesn't operate after drying off, I would suggest calling the local dealer, or a competent independent shop. Be sure to ask for a tech with experience in the older unit such as yours.
If he is competent, he can diagnose the issue as either an input to the panel, or an output from the panel with just a few voltage checks on the card itself.
If the card has been damaged and needs replaced, it will need to be programmed for you particular unit.

I would test voltage at the drive contactor to make sure it is receiving battery voltage. If it is, check the contactor tips for burnt parts, overtime they can go bad making them have a weak connection. Clean if possible. If the system works when manually closing the contactor it may be a bad contactor that needs to be replaced.

Drive contractor is not closing. Does not spark when contacts are closed manually. Drive motors function when main drive contacts are closed.
Does not have any flash code capability that I am aware of.
Forward and reverse, and brake switch and accelerator switch all test ok.