The wire to the coil in the run position should be a blue with a white tracer. This should have battery volts with the key in the on position. This wire is connected to the input side of the ballast resistor. The other end of the resistor should have a wire running to the positive terminal on the coil. There should be a black with a red tracer wire connected directly to the coil positive or to the coil side of the ballast resistor, this is the resistor bypass wire to feed full voltage during cranking. If you loose the voltage on the blue with white wire in the run position you either have a bad ignition switch or an open wire in the harness. The blue with white wire also feeds all you gauges and dash lights.

Thank you BREWSKI. We checked that out and the ballast is good. We actually disconnected the 12v from the start position on the switch so it has to start by getting voltage through the ballast and it does the same thing.. thank you for the reply

Check to see if there is a ballast resistor on the ignition coil. If there is check to see if it is open. When cranking the resistor is bypassed, once you return the switch to the run position it opens the bypass and the coil needs to be energized through the resistor.