Hi,
I'm new to this forum. I've just purchased a GENIE GS-3268RT SCISSOR LIFT and one of the drive motors are not working. Is it possible to move it around like that since it's a 4x4? If not then what are the steps anyone can advise me to take? Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

snype,
great, glad you finally found it.
yes sometimes these things can be difficult to find even for those that are trained and work on them everyday.
The fact you found a piece of steel lodged in the check valve sort of concerns me that it had to come from somewhere but...
unless you find alot of it then i wouldn't worry to much about that, it could of been a piece of machined metal left inside a manifold block when it was made and was just floating around till it got caught up in that valve. Lets hope so anyway :o)

yes as far as that other problem checking the other valves in that circuit is a good idea, you may find another stuck by debris. If it does it consistently then that shouldn't be too hard to find.

good luck

Well at long last I found it. It was a check valve that had to do with #26 check valve or Z in the manual. Had a piece of steel stuck in it. Thanks for all the help! It's much appreciated.

Now as for the other issue, it's not that the engine idles down...I know it's supposed to do that after the handle is released. This is a bit different. What is happening is that when the handle is squeezed, engine revs up as its supposed to, but is straining. I have noticed that the outrigger lines move as if there is a lot of pressure. After about 15 seconds, the engine is still revved up but the strain leaves. The outrigger lines relax. It seems like it is trying to pressure up something, but a relief is taking too long to release. I think I'm going to start by looking at the outrigger pressure relief.

snype32
yes that is normal that the machine will initiate when the handle is squeezed, the engine will rev up for a brief period and then when the system has no demand on it , then it will return to an idle state.

As far as the initial problem with the drive system i still think there is a malfunctioning check valve allowing the fluid to bypass in that circuit for that side.

Also have noticed something...Not sure if it's related or not. If the lift is started and idling and the joystick handle is squeezed, the engine revs up. It is supposed to do this, but it sounds like the engine is working hard for about 10-15 seconds. Then suddenly it eases up as if the load has been removed. This is without any directional or lift action, just squeezing the handle. This lift has always done this, but it doesn't seem right.

Thanks for the reply... I have taken apart both of those valves and even swapped them to see if the issue would switch sides.. I swapped the wiring too. No change. As far as the solenoids getting a signal, as soon as I disconnect one, the machine gives an error code, so I'm assuming that the electrical side of things is good. I have taken apart and inspected every solenoid involved with the drive circuit and they all look good. This machine is getting extremely frustrating. With an issue this obvious, I would think I should be able to find an obvious cause. Thanks for all the effort you are putting into this.

ok after looking at the hydraulic diagram the 'B' variable control valve on the manifold control these motors.
I would start there and check and make sure that control solenoid valve is getting signal at its coils.
You can take the control wires off the working solenoid variable valve for the left front and right rear motors and move them to this one and see if the symptom changes, this will verify if the valve is working or not.
If the symptom does not change then you may be looking for a stuck check valve in that circuit or maybe a valve with a broken oring.
I know using the diagrams in the manual can be confusing because they may list 'letters' for each component in the diagram but the corresponding information is always listed in another section explaining what the letters are. You just have to spend some time looking through the manual to find this information.

Just remember the orientation of the controller will remain the same so you will have to keep this in mind when working the control handle. And always make sure you have the wheels off the ground when testing so you will not have any unexpected movement of the machine. Or you can disengage the wheels using the lockouts on each wheel hub to prevent machine movement, but locking out wheel hubs does make it harder to tell if the motors are working correctly.

It's the front (steering) right and rear left. I did the plug the motor lines test like you suggested...no change. I didn't know that genie has tech support.. I'll give that a try too.

Thanks!

snype
can you be more specific on which 2 wheels are not driving?

Have you spoken with Genie's tech support people? 1-800-536-1800

Thanks for the reply... so if a motor was bad, would it not pass oil with little resistance, similar to a wheel spinning? Then the valve should divert oil to other wheels? In the service manual, the motors are connected in diagonal pairs, but could still be connected together in the manifold via proportioning valves like you mentioned.

Yes they may appear that way but the way the control manifold deals with them is that if one wheel motor looses traction it senses this and the valves divert fluid away from that motor to the other ones so it will still pull. If you are loosing one side (or one pair) then there has to be either a bad motor or valve malfunctioning.

Thanks for the info...I'll give that a try. The wheels seen to be connected in pairs diagonally from each other. One pair is fine, the other is not.

the model is gs-3268 and the serial is: gs6805-43903

in order to give you more accurate information having a full model and serial number off of the data plate would be helpful.

with that said....

there should be a function manifold on the same side as the hydraulic resivoir. First i would get some fitting caps and plugs and remove each motor hoses and plug them off one at a time, this test is to see if one of the wheel motors is defective. Since this is 4x4 all motors are tied together in the manifold circuit and cannot be accurately tested while all are connected due to the equalizing circuit that redirects fluid according to demand on each wheel versus the terrain.

if a wheel motor is bad once you unhook it and block the circuit off the other wheels should return to normal mode and all should pull evenly.

if you find all wheel motors are ok then you will need to go back to manifold block and check counterbalance valves and check valves related to drive circuit.