Hi Everyone!
New forum member here.
I just picked up a Clark C500S60 to replace/augment my ancient 1942 Towmotor. Yes, 1942! The data plate says this is a type "G" hopefully this isn't one of the bad ones! :)
This thing is like a cadillac compared to the old Towmotor. However, it does have a couple of issues and I have a couple of questions. Hopefully someone can help.
It would not start for the people I bought if from. They bought a reman starter for it but then discovered a bad spot in the flywheel. I turned the engine past the bad spot by hand, reinstalled the starter and the brake master cylinder and she started right up but ran poorly. I made a deal for her and hauled her home. I'm sure that some day I will have to replace the flywheel or ring gear, but hopefully I will continue to get lucky and the engine won't ever stop at the bad spot again! :)
I already fixed the poor driveability and the parking brake. I need to replace the fan belt since it's at max adjustment and squeals like crazy. I also need to reinforce the alternator mounting since it wobbles all over the place.
My questions have to do with the hydraulic reservoirs. It looks like there are 2 of them. One on the right side that has a plastic screw on cap with a plastic dipstick, and one on the left that has a galavanized NPT cap. Are these both hydraulic reservoirs? What type of hydraulic fluid is called for? The one of the left does not have a dip stick. How much should be in there?
Also, the thing leaks ATF to the point that I think I should fix it. I am assuming this is actual transmission fliud. Is there a common leak on these models? It looks like the fill for this is in the center of the differential behind the fork slide assy. If I tilt the forks all the way forward I can get to a little dipstick there. it's down about 1/2 way and it is definitely ATF. Is this the correct spot to be checking the fluid for the trans?
How do I go about getting the thing high enough to get underneath to at least degrease and look for the leak? Crawling under it with a creeper would be fairly scary unless properly supported.
It would be nice to know what year this truck is. The serial number is 40 492 2520
Last but not least, does someone have a.pdf of a manual I can read?
Sorry for all the questions, trying to learn as much as I can about my new truck.
Thanks!!
Michael
Showing items 1 - 14 of 14 results.
My guess is that you are using the wrong starter. You should be using a sealed starter which looks the same but has an oil seal in it as well as a rubber gasket for the solenoid. You should be able to get the correct starter from Roberts and Sons in NJ - 877-772-1009.
Hello Mr fixit
Reading this forum trying to understand the wet bell housing. I have a C500 YS60. Y355 381 3966 LP. And the starter started dragging bad, I replaced the battery leads and serviced the battery, then put a new one in. Still dragging, I bought a new starter and when I removed the old one about a quart of oil ran out and the old starter was soaked in oil. Now I'm scratching my head wondering what the heck is going on. I have been a Motörhead all my life, yes over 60 years and thinking I have a rear crank seal out, but not losing any oil.
So if you could or would, please explain the wet system and how much oil is inside and how the starter doesn't burn up.
Sorry so long, really confused
Rick
You mean you spend all that time to R & R the engine- just to rotate the ring gear on the flywheel? Seems like alot of work just to short shot the job- unless you don't have access to a replacement ring- gear, then i get it.
Edward t- no disrespect, but the engine will stop on the compression stroke of any of the cylinders, not just 1 or 2. You can always tell which cylinder has the most compression as this is where the most wear will be on the ring gear, but, if the engine is a 4 cyl- you will find 4 distinct wear patterns on the ring gear
Do you do that heat and shrink trick without taking it all apart?
Hi: Hope this might help. Here in India it is not uncommon to remove Starter ring by Heat (and shrink) method and turning it by 90deg and refitting it by the same method. As we all know, the flywheel retains the same position on stopping mainly due to the crankshaft balancing weights. By angularly shifting the ring gear from its original position you get the same effect as you are, by handcranking to a new position.
Thanks for the replies..
1970? Wow.. I did not think it was that old.
I guess that is possible bad news on the transmission leak. I will have to check the left side brake reservoir and see if it is empty or low. Hopefully it's full! :)
I am still hoping for decent weather this weekend to so I can take a look under this lift to see where the leak is coming from. And also replace the fan belt. The weather report is not looking good at this point, but maybe I will get lucky! :)
As for the flywheel issue, I have heard before that 4 cylinder engines only stop in one of 2 places. Maybe the bad spot on the flywheel isn't that bad. After all, when the engine is turning over to start it definitely hits that spot and there is no change in sound.
Michael
Using the serial number that is listed- the unit is a 1970.
the motor only and always stops in 1 of 2 (with relation to the flywheel and starter positions) places on a 4 cylinder motor, near the top of the compression stroke.
This machine has 2 master cylinders, and the one on the operators left feeds the inching spool, that is mounted to the transmission, so that when it leaks, it leaks dot3 brake fluid into the trans case. This is not so much fluid as to be noticed, and often end users have a tendency to just refill the master cylinder reservoir on that side. The problem is that while brake fluid will soften the clutch material and make it seem like it is good, after about 6 months, all the seals and gaskets also get soft, so fixing this transmission's leaking is not likely to be as simple as it would have been on your old towmotor.
On the other hand, other than these problems, this lift is likely to be as bullet proof as any ever made.
The down side is just that the trans will be more work and cost than this lift could ever be sold for, (even if entirely reconditioned with all new hoses, belts, paint, seat, new brakes and transmission).
Hi Mrfixit..
Thanks for the reply.
I thought I had posted the whole serial number in my original thread. But in case it got cut off here it is again: 40 492 2520
That's the number on the information plate on the front of the truck.
I need to spend some quality time with this lift to see about getting it off the ground so I can look under it. I do have my old TowMotor so I am wondering if I can use it to help me with this. Perhaps I will have some time this weekend to take a look. Maybe I will get lucky and the leak will be something simple! :)
Thanks,
Michael
Sounds like you pretty much understand how your forklift is designed. Where the bellhousing splits apart is a oil tight seal, the starter has a seal in the front of it to prevent oil from getting in it (could leak there). The starter needs a gasket to seal it on the housing. A leaky axel seal will drip from a hole in the axel housing just inward from the wheel. There's maybe about 2 quarts ?? of oil in the bell housing that circulates. There could be a leak on the trans drain plug or pan (not sure if it has a pan). Both brake petals should put the brakes on when pressed. The brake pads are in the axle housing. Taking one of these apart is not easy. If you are changing the ring gear, pulling the motor would be the way. Get it up in the air, clean it, run it, and check where it leaks. You need to post the whole serial number to figure out what year it is.
Yes I am the owner and the only user of this truck. So turning the engine over by hand is not a big deal. When I do this type of thing I make sure the ignition is off to prevent any issues. Fortunately these motors don't seem to have a lot of compression so it's relatively easy to get hold of the cooliing fan to turn the motor a little.
As for the trans leak. I haven't looked at it that much yet, but what I have noticed is there appears to be a rather thick piece of flat bar in the middle of the chassis running from side to side. The transmission fluid is basically dripping off this bar.
So considering the trans leak and the ring gear, is it easier to pull the transaxle or is it easier to pull the motor out of the back? Something tells me it's not as simple as a hose. Although it is possible I've looked under the pedal panel and from what I can see on top there doesn't appear to be any leaks from up top. So the leak is coming from somewhere down underneath. When it stops raining for a bit I will see if I can get a better look at what's going on.
If the leak is from the axle seals wouldn't the leak be more prevalent by the front wheels instead of nearer the center of the truck? Or is the brake somewhere else? I haven't looked that far yet.
Thanks for the info on the wet bellhousing. With my automotive background I don't have much experience with that. Is that why the starter has a gasket? How much fluid would you expect there to be in the flywheel/starter/bellhousing area?
I haven't driven the truck much, but I seem to remember the inching pedal disengaging he clutch but I don't remember if it also applies the brakes. I will have to check that.
Thanks for confirming the dipstick behind the upright is the fill. I had already figured out the best way to get to is was to tilt it all the way forward.
That would be really cool if you could find out what year this truck is. I'm really excited about owning it - especially for the price I paid - and I am really relieved to hear that the C500 trucks were good units. I have already noticed that it isn't the easiest thing in the world to work on, but so far it's not that terribly bad.
Thank you for all of your contributions. :)
Michael
OK- first things first-as far as the ring gear- as long as you're the only one operating the machine- not a problem with turning the engine over by hand when it won't catch- just be careful- sometimes the engine will kick back, causing whatever you're using to turn the engine over with to come back at you very quickly- and by all means, don't let anyone except you perform this procedure (assuming you're the owner of the machine)- anyone hurt doing this will get to know your insurance company very well.
As far as the tranny leak- this style truck uses a wet bellhousing- meaning that the bell housing is constantly wet with ATF fluid. This rules out the usual torque converter seal. The best way to find the leak is to park the unit on clean cardboard overnight & start there. These trannys usually leave drip marks wherevery they're parked- nothing to major. My bet is if the leak is large- the axle seals are leaking up around the brake disc area. This may affect the brakes-as the brake disc pucs (disc pads) are in close proximity to the seal assy.
The dual master cylinders you describe are as follows- the right master cylinder ( as seated on the truck) is mated to the right brake pedal as is for application of the service brakes only. The left master cylinder is mated to the left brake pedal ( known as the "inching pedal" ) and is for the application of the service brakes along with inching the transmission (putting the tranny in nuetral). You would use this pedal when you are entering a pallet & wanting to stop & use the hydraulics at the same time.
As far as the fill for the ATF- the dipstick is the fill port. The tranny & differential (transaxle) both use the same oil. Use the latest Dextron ATF & you should be fine. Resist the temtation to raise the forks & go in from the front to add fluid- just tilt the upright forward & fill from the side.
As far as the year- I can find that out & get back to you. The Clark C500 series is a good unit & parts are still available. If it has a downside it is that it's a time consuming piece to work on. An axle seal replacement will take around 6 hours- to replace a ring gear- about 8. Hope this helps
Thanks for the reply.
For now I will let the flywheel issue go. At some point in the future I will probably have to fix it, but for now I have neither the space nor time to tear the truck apart. Besides if it turns out the transmission leak is the torque converter seal then I will fix both at the same time.
So this lift was originally gasoline? I would have never thought so. Who ever did the propane conversion did a really good job then.
So that must mean that someone must have mistaken the old fuel tank for the hydraulic tank since there's hydraulic oil in there now.
So if the small dipstick in the front diff is not the fill point for the transmission (transaxle?) then where do I fill it?
Oh and one other thing I forgot about. There is also a master cylinder on the left pedal. This doesn't appear to operation the brakes so I'm wondering if it's job is to disengage the trans clutches?
Thank you for the info,
Michael
type "G" generally means gas powered
as for the starter problem, trust me when i say you wont be so lucky, it will eventually stop on that bad spot on the flywheel and you'll find yourself turning the engine past that spot when this happens. All i can say is hope it doesnt do it alot but it will get to a point where you will be considering doing the flywheel job after a couple starters and having to turn the motor at the most inconvienent times.
As for the caps on either side?
the one on the right side with the dipstick is the hydraulic resivoir, the cap on the left side is the gas tank. Now if this truck is strictly gasoline powered then thats where you put the gasoline. If it has been converted to LPG then you wont have to worry about that tank at all since the lpg tank is mounted on the back. (unless its dual fuel, but i've never seen a dual fuel clark before do i kind of doubt it)
The hydraulic fluid is usually either 10wt tractor fluid or AW32 will work also.
Transmission leak? yeah if its leaking alot you may want to fix the leak once you find out where its comming from, as for the differential? No thats just a dipstick, you may be able to add it there but i think there is also a plug on top of the tranny too, i could be wrong though. The most common tranny leaks i've found are the torque converter seal or maybe a hose somewhere, kind of hard to say for sure.
As for getting underneath it? well you either need a strong enough ramp that can give you access to underneath it or have some way to lift the machine and put solid chock blocks underneath it, not jack stands. NEVER rely on a jack alone, way to dangerous. Just remember this machine probably weighs 10k lbs or there abouts so keep this in mind when you go trying to jack it up or lift it.
as for the year and manuals? sorry i cant help you there, maybe someone else can.
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