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Fault finding and general info
  • baz_c
  • Auckland, New Zealand
Hi all, Havnt been on here directly since my last message a couple of years back. I offered assistance to one and all with Lansing faults / info. I have been snowed under with requests and managed to get all but one going. Dozens of Lansing owners from dozens of Countries. Excellent. The only one I failed on was a 5.2s that we DID get going but was then destroyed by thugs who wanted paying for THEIR failed attempts at getting it going... Imagine that. Anyway, All has gone quiet so I am posting this in the hope that I can further assist with these fine machines. My email address is on my Profile and I am in New Zealand. Done just about nothing but Lansings since 1974 so I know which way is up.! yakida lads.

Lansing work a PLEASURE, since 1974. Email Baz:............chevron at pin.co.nz
  • Posted 22 Sep 2011 02:12 PM
Total replies: 25. Showing items 1 - 20 of 25 results.
12
Replies
Hello, I live in Canada and I own an old Lansing bagnall FOR 98 electric forklift. It is starting to surge a little when moving forward or reverse. It is hard to creep it ahead without it jumping sometimes. Just wondering what you think it might be. Also looking for a service and parts manual for it. Thank you
  • Posted 23 Oct 2012 11:46 AM
  • baz_c
  • Auckland, New Zealand
Hi Patch. Not sure of the Model, is it an FOER 9/80.? If not, try to find out exactly what she is. I am sorry, I dont recognise FOR98.

Does it jump when just driving or when you operate the Hydraulics or the horn when just starting to drive.?

When it jumps, does it stop. Do you have to switch on again, or unplug the battery etc, or would it just carry on at high speed if you kept your foot down (you would need to be brave.!) let me know what you can and I will be able to help.
Regards. baz c.
  • Posted 23 Oct 2012 12:52 PM
Thank you for replying so soon, I will get the info your looking for and reply back tomorrow.
  • Posted 23 Oct 2012 02:12 PM
Hi got one of these old timers. Lansing Bagnall 72v FOER 923 [url removed] [url removed] in drive system directional solenoids are working when forward or reward pedal is operated truck moves a little but is powerless, wheels turn slowly if jacked up. I have no info about this truck, I suspect the accelerator but I have no idea how to measure it Looks more like current measurement device than accelerator.

kristjnh@yahoo.com
  • Posted 20 Nov 2012 06:13 AM
  • baz_c
  • Auckland, New Zealand
Hi Kristjan.

Sounds like you are right about the accelerator unit. Speed control is dependant on a small magnet that moved with the pedal operation. The magnet effects the pulsing and moving it away from the Armature feed cable that you see on top of the unit, allows ther pulse circuit to increase pulses thus increasing speed. The magnetic influence is measured by the Transductor, the red plastic 'module fitted to the accelerator. It has the Armature cable clamped to it. Any difference in magnetic flux between the cable and the magnet is measured and pulses occur as required. Alter the balance and the pulsing is either increased or decreased. It sounds like the fixed magnet has broken out of its clamp. That is not uncommon. Remove the tin plate covering the magnet housing and you will see the two clamp halves holding the magnet. Usually, one half cracks and the magnet sticks to the tin plate.!! Easy to see and do. I can give you the Part numbers etc if that is what is wrong. I hold stock of anything you might need if you are stuck. Let me know. Caution.!! When you take the tin plate off the back, make sure you keep your eye on the magnet and which way around it is facing. There SHOULD be a tiny blue dot or some other mark on one side of the magnet. This side faces away from the tin cover when assembled in the clamps. There is a one inch hole in the front face of the unit with a stainless steel press in cover. Inside is an adjusting screw and locknut. When you have fitted the magnet and clamped it up, you can adjust the point where pulsing first occurs with this adjuster. Truck wheel off the floor, Direction contactor in, adjust screw in or out until you hear pulsing. **** out will increase the pulse rate. Once the wheel is turning very slowly, lock off screw. You might need to put wheel back on the floor and adjust for final trim as some operators like a grater or smaller 'dead' band between contactor coming in and the start of the truck to move. Hoppe this is what IS wrong. If all looks well in there though, let me know and I will suggest more. can (and will) send some info when i get a cahnce. (In the middle of a job at the moment. Let me know.. and good luck. Cheers baz cleverley\

Lansing work a PLEASURE, since 1974. Email Baz:............chevron at pin.co.nz
  • Posted 20 Nov 2012 06:58 AM
Thank you wery much for help.The old guy runs like a Bucik Now
  • Posted 22 Nov 2012 03:52 AM
  • baz_c
  • Auckland, New Zealand
Good one Kristjan. Glad you have it sorted. Thanks for letting me know, I was losing sleep.!!! Cheers. baz c.
  • Posted 22 Nov 2012 07:48 AM
  • MickB
  • cheshire, United Kingdom
Hi Baz, hope you can help with [url removed]'ve got a Lansing FOER15.1 3.0PFL electric counterbalance truck 72v.
The truck will move from a standing start (either forwards or backwards) ok, but when more load is applied [url removed] slight gradient or more speed, the contactor solenoid is releasing creating a short sharp arc and surge as the circuit [url removed] have to release the accelerator fully to be able to activate the solenoid [url removed] it will also happen if another function is used at the same time like tilt/[url removed] control board is a HYTRON V if that is any help ? Cheers, Mick
  • Posted 9 Jan 2014 02:55 AM
  • baz_c
  • Auckland, New Zealand
Hi Mick, Sorry for the slight delay. Summer Hols here so a bit of work on for the Forklift repairers. (Shut-down work) Anyway, good to hear from you. I can send you better 'suggestions' if you give me your email. Mine is chevron at pin dot co dot nz

A couple of things to check. Con 3 is the Line Contactor, the one that pulls in when you turn the key. Is that the one that drops out. ? If so, check the following. Firstly, I assume that the circuit is as it should be with Con 3 pulling in on the SPRINGloaded keyswitch position. Con 3 pulls in on 72 volts which is easilly measured at the coil of Con 3. measure with the key over on the spring position. When you let go of the key, the voltage at Con 3 coil drops to something like 22 volts or similar. Make sure you have those two voltages. I cant help but think that you may have a battery cell or two out and that test will show you what you are starting with at the coil. NOW. If you HOLD the key over on the spring position so that you have your 72 volts, keep holding it and then drive the truck or use the hydraulics to make the fault appear. If the fault does NOT appear.. it means that the CON 3 is dropping out through lack of battery voltage OR, that Con 3 coil is graqdually going short-circuit and needs a lot more voltage to hold it in. the 22 or so volts just wont hold it in when there is extra load on the battery (slope or hyd). There is nothing magical or electronic about the keyswitch Con 3 circuit, it is a plain old 'Apply voltage and it should work' circuit.
So, check the battery for all cells working. Check this with a load applied which should best be mast at full height and pull the lift lever and hold for 5 secs or so. Watch the battery 72 volts and see if it drops like a stone. (Expect the keyswitch to drop out of course, that is why we are here.... ) Get somebody to hold the keyswitch over so that you have a full 72 volts at the Con 3 coil while you do that test. As I say, it sounds like a battery voltage problem but the coil could be faulty. A coil needs MORE voltage to hold it in once it gets hot. A coil that would hold in on 20 volts cold will require maybe a minimum of (say) 30 volts to hold it in when it is hot. If yours IS getting hot, expect a short circuit starting to arrive.
Of course, if the circuit is not wired correctly and you dont have that lower 'hold-in' voltage in circuit, then the coil of Con 3 will have been overheating for a while and we are then back to the possible start of a short circuit. the 22 volts (or similar) that Lansing set their 'hold-in' voltage to, ensures that the coil of Con 3 stays cool over a long period. If this has been bypassed in the past, the coil may need changing. Let me know how you go with this. Dont get over complicated as it is just voltage with no PCB's interfering with the operation of the keyswitch. Cheers.

Lansing work a PLEASURE, since 1974. Email Baz:............chevron at pin.co.nz
  • Posted 10 Jan 2014 06:58 PM
  • malc
  • dorset, United Kingdom
hi baz ive have a lancing E15
all hydraulics work but wont travel forward or backwards on the drive side its a 1991 model cheers
  • Posted 9 Aug 2015 08:29 PM
  • baz_c
  • Auckland, New Zealand
Hi Malc.
Oh dear... how embarrassing... All that 'sales' blurb and I dont think I can help... I haven't worked on an E15 and there are none here in paradise. The FRER 9.1 and FOER 15.1 were the last here although there are some Linde trucks about.
I will be at the workshop in the morning (Tuesday) so will check my paperwork to see if I have anything on an E15... I will let you know this time tomorrow for sure... Sorry. Cheers.. Baz c.
  • Posted 10 Aug 2015 08:48 PM
  • malc
  • dorset, United Kingdom
thanks for that any help would be great ,cheers
  • Posted 11 Aug 2015 04:48 AM
  • malc
  • dorset, United Kingdom
hi, just wondering if you found any info om my lansing e15 cheers
  • Posted 13 Aug 2015 01:34 AM
  • Ikbosh
  • Western Australia, Australia
Hi Baz,

I was wondering if you're still in the position of offering assistance to people who have faults with their Lansing Forklifts?

I work in a Warehouse, and the owners are cheap and not even based here, so I run it alone, and it's a mess. Nextdoor was selling their Forklift and so I couldn't help but buy it, knowing even though it's not in the best of shape.

It's an old FOER 9. The Handbrake is broken (appears to be the bolt at the base of the handle has snapped and doesn't allow any counter-leverage when pulling it) and the foot breaks don't work (No pressure, likely the fluid?).

Unfortunately, I'm unable to find any information, at all, related to this Forklift online. So I was hoping you might be willing to assist?

Because I'm unable to pay for a professional to come out at this point and service it. Especially considering, they're quoting me over the phone it'll cost thousands for the labor alone.

Anyways, hope you see this, would be awesome if you're able to help.
Kind Regards,
Aaron.
  • Posted 18 Dec 2015 06:06 PM
lansing bagnall foer 5.2 flick the key would hera a clunk all good no more clunk i thought it was out of charge and put it on charge it was working fine when i parked it now i have no idea

toa
  • Posted 1 Mar 2016 07:36 PM
can any one help from australia
  • Posted 1 Mar 2016 07:36 PM
measureing the charge as its charging looks like its stuck on 51 v?? is this a 46 v unit or a 72v
  • Posted 1 Mar 2016 07:40 PM
  • baz_c
  • Auckland, New Zealand
Hi Tansel a,

The 5.2s is a 48 volt truck so if you are reading 51 volts, all would seem to be well with the Charger and the battery. Make sure you still have around 48 volts with the battery disconnected from the Charger.
The 'clunk' you hear when you turn the keyswitch is the Line Contactor operating. This contactor connects battery Neg to the circuit. It is situated in the very worst place for checking and maintenance. It is under the battery, on the right hand side and about half way towards the rear of the truck. The Contactor is in a tin box with a cover that has to be lifted off, UPwards so the battery needs to be out of the way. For identification of the correct box, the battery grey plug Negative cable goes directly into it. Problems you will encounter with this unit::: The moving arm that carries the contacts pivots on a nylon shaft through an ally housing. The nylon swells and makes the contact stick. (wont pivot off to on and on to off. ) Check the Positive voltage AT the contactor coil at the pink wire.. Check for something like 46 volts when holding the key over onto its spring position, When switched to first position, expect to find about 18 volts at the Pink, not enough to operate contactor. (18 volts hold contactor 'in' once it has been brought in by the 46 volts) If no 46 volts, check first at keyswitch... for battery voltage and trace through switch to contacor. It is usually the sticking pivoting nylon rod that stops the contactor operating. When you switch the key off after a normal day, the Contactor moving arm (and that nylon rod) dropps out and comes into contact with a small, oblong contact in the off position. A sticking Contactor can prevent this 'Normally closed" contact from contacting and you get no keyswitch voltage.....
Finally, check the small glass fuses (2) in the front of the panel under the floor, on the right. One fuse feeds the Contactor Normally closed contact circuit.... Let me know how you go. Be safe if lifting the battery off..... I have jacked up just the right hand side to gain access BUT... BUT... BUT, the truck has to be very nearly against a wall on the left to stop the battery from sliding off sideways.... as you tilt the battery. best to move the whole battery sideways to the left and keep it level...... You need to clear the Line Contactor box and also need to be able to maintain battery plug into circuit.... You also need to JACK THE LEFT HAND WHEEL OFF THE GROUND, (OR BOTH). Left hand wheel because you are going to be working on your knees, on the Right and you dont want a turning wheel gouging out your trousers.... !!!
  • Posted 2 Mar 2016 04:59 PM
  • SeanH
  • Canterbury, New Zealand
Having problems with my FOER 9/60. I had just loaded a trailer and backed out and things cut out when I tried to move forward. After that it has started cutting out when the key is turned on. The contactor clicks but then cuts out and the battery gauge drops down to low. No forward or reverse and no mast movement either. After sitting for a bit the battery gauge is showing full charge again. Issue repeats if the key is turned on. Battery measures 76.5V. Any thoughts?
  • Posted 21 Dec 2016 06:00 PM
  • baz_c
  • Auckland, New Zealand
Hi Sean, Sounds a bit like a cell failure. Any 'smelly' cells or fuming.? The voltage you give is high unless it has just come off charge and if you have a dodgy cell or cells, that voltage would drop alarmingly if you measured it whilst stalling the lift or even just raising the mast. (if you can). You can voltage test each individual cell and expect around the 2.05 volts or even a tad higher if it is a fairly new battery. Best voltage per cell would be 2.35 or thereabouts on a newish battery. If you have a cell that is extremely low, (1.5 or lower) test it again while stalling (say) the tilt and see if the voltage drops away rapidly... If it does, then that cell may have failed... It can be shorted out to restore full operation. You can short out maybe three cells before you have to replace them. More than 3 cells will upset the Charger and it may not turn off overnight... (A modern Charger would not even bother to turn on)

Other reasons for your fault.? Maybe check the line contactor. That is the one under the floor, right hand side and operates when the key is turned on. Look for stiff operation, (try by hand, it should be free). The NYlon Pivot rod for the moving contact arm gets stiff when warm. It can swell up and stick in the ally mounting bracket. When the moving arm drops out or is switched off at the key, it can stick in the not fully back position. When it IS fully back, it has to be in contact with the small rectangular contact block before the key will switch on again. Once it is cooler it may very well end up fully back against the rectangular Contact and the truck will work again.
Look also at the 'L' shaped moving contact on the line -contactor to make sure it is not loose with a burnt bolt holding it.
Sounds to me though that you have a voltage loss problem. If you can get it going, can lift the mast right to the top and then measure the voltage WHILST you are holding the lift lever fully back (Stalling the motor), watch the voltage and see if it drops away below about 65 volts.... (appx) if it does you are going to have to test each cell like I described above. Good luck and let me know how you go. I can offer more info with more info IF you see what I mean.....
If the keyswitch circuit has not been altered, you have to hold the key fully clockwise in its second position to get the Line - contactor in. When you let go of the key, it should spring back to its first position. If yours is still like that then try holding the key over to the second position WHEN the truck is playing up. This feeds the full battery voltage to the line-contactor and it will usually stay in all the time you are holding the key fully over.. (When the key is let go, there is only an 18 -20 volt supply to the line-Contactor which will HOLD it in once it is in. A weak or faulty battery reduces that 18 volt holding voltage to too low and the Line- Contactor will drop out. Good luck and dont forget to ask if you are still having problems.... Regards, Baz C.
  • Posted 21 Dec 2016 09:44 PM
Total replies: 25. Showing items 1 - 20 of 25 results.
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