I have this problem for quite a moment tbut did nothing about it. The speed control works correctly sometime but the other time, the contactor 1A close to soon and cause the truck to jump. However, there is no code and the controller never shut down. I tried to adjust function #3 and it seems to cured for me but the operator came back later in the day saying nothing has changed. My question is, how the logic card knows the truck is almost full speed and decide to close 1A? Any idea what could cause this phenomena? the battery is good. Thanks in advance. The truck is a Yale ERC065RFN... and the oscillator card is IC3645LXCD1
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Thanks. I have verified the battery gravity and load test also. Shown good. I have an inspection sheet where I write the results for comparison. Also, I have swapped the battery with another truck with EV100 in it and the problem remains the same. Im again at the hypothesis of a bad motor winding. Someone ever seen that?
Cheers!
Dwaive,
I can see your having a hard time with this problem, and I think you need to test your battery in depth, starting with a fully charged battery, you need to check specific gravities on all cells then you need to check individual cell voltages and insure they are within two scale devisions of each other I.E 2.20v-2.40v then you need to load test each cell against the tilt relief valve watching for any reversal of polarity on any cell. Make sure the battery has stopped gassing off and is cold before you do these tests, Some times it can be hard to fail abattery Ive had them where trucks have cut out havinng only worked an hour, checked the gravites checked cell voltages all ok, but what it came down to was opotunity charging by that I mean the operator puts his truck on charge at dinner time and any other time he thinks suitable resulting in the battery capacity being reduced, which inturn led to over heating components. it happens.
Regards Titus
Thanks Edward. My battery was in fact discharged at that moment. If I have a bad battery, it will be the first time I missed a battery problem. At REC1 output full acceleration, it is always full amps 450A until temp protection starts to cut back. I have put my clamp meter directly on plus battery cable and at full speed with 1A closed, the steady amps always remain at 220A with no load on the forks. I think this is pretty high. I have inspected every component, cable and all with insulation test and megohm test at the motor. Every test has shown perfect. I can't find the reason why it is overheating although it should be easy to find. The drive motor becomes also very hot. My last try would be to gravity test the battery (but the battery is a Deka less than a year old) the previous battery was really shot but none of these problem was present then. My last diagnostic is that the motor winding must be shorted together this affecting the magnetic effect and causing more effort to accelerate this translating in a high current usage. Does it make sense? I can't measure winding resistance to prove it is too small. This is why I will gravity test the battery because if I tow the customer's truck to our facilities and have the motor re-winded and the problem still present I will look very bad. I take care of this customer's for five years now and he knows I'm not a newbie but this will make me look like if I'm wrong I keep you posted. Thanks for the time you take. Regards!
Dwaive, I want to go back and examine what you are saying about your battery a bit more closely.
When you say "44V tilt backward full pressure" it is important to know what the voltage was 'at rest' before you put the load on it, and generally speaking, if this battery charged up to 49.2 volts at rest before loading, then you DO have a bad battery if it drops to 44 vdc (and DO read the tenths of volts).
In fact, new AC trucks rate the battery at 20% usable charge left, when they reach the 'rated' voltage, so a battery at 48.0 volts means it is time to recharge the battery, not that the battery is fully charged. We used to allow a bit more discharge in older machines, but it was not good for the battery's life, we just figured the battery would die from abuse or lack of proper maintenance, anyway.
ALSO you have given us a model number but I did not see your serial number, and if anyone is going to be able to provide you the correct settings, they will need the serial number of your truck (and maybe some motor measurements too)
I had a similar overheating problem on the Hyster version of this truck and it was related to the parking brake shoes. The springs broke off and the shoes would lodge into the drum and drag the park brake. Do not know if this truck has a park brake drum on it but as long as the battery is out it is an easy check.
Having read most of the posts on this problem I think you do have a failing battery, I dont supose you have another truck you could swap batteries with.
Titus
Thanks Edward. Already checked the battery, no defect cells, voltage good, 44V tilt backward full pressure. One wheel was dragging a bit, I adjusted the brakes, didn't help. I was suspecting a faulty component ithe EV100 but after many test, my conclusion was it is overheating and proved it with an infrared thermometer. In the book it is written that even with amperage reduced at REC1 output, the truck should reach sufficient speed before 1A close. It is clearly not what is happenning on my truck.next step is to remove the battery and scan the truck for a short or a leak to the frame. 1a contact is becomig spotty but with ampmeter on rec 1 output, the current drops to zero when contact close. I will replace the contact at the resolution of this bug. Like I said the truck works in a small area with short distance (receiving dept with 4 garage door to cover) but it has always been the same applicaton. I dont have the factory specs but i ran through the settings and all seems correct according to logic. If you havr them it may be a good thing to do too. Many thanks!
dwaive, the controller should not be getting hot. a few questions first.
Is this a short shuttle or a long run operation?
Does the battery loose more than 10% of it's 'at rest' voltage when the hydraulics are deadheaded? (if so, fix the battery problem before any further troubleshooting).
If the drive wheels are off the ground, can you turn both drive wheels by hand? (if not, fix the brakes or transmission problem first)
does this unit have any 'shorts to frame (check every power cable and fix any with less than 100K ohms short to frame before further troubleshooting)
On EV100 systems, I have found that if the wheels are free, and not dragging, but the panel is getting overly hot, especially if it is a long run and not short shuttle, I would replace or rebuild the 1a contactor. What can be happening is that the contactor pulls in, but does not make good contact, and because the recs keep pulsing, the driver is not aware that they are not really in bypass. this in turn does not allow the power to bypass the recs, so the recs never cool down, and are running full on.
I would also go over ever ALL the settings and reset all the settings to the factory specs.
Is someone have the electrical drawing for this truck, it is a Yale model ERC065RFN48SE084' serial E108V09250V ? Thanks!
Thanks all, I found it is the thermal cutback that reduce amperage output at rec1 this causing the accelration being insufficient before 1A close. Now I need to know why it is overheating. The operator is doing a lot of stop and go but it was working fine previously and the application still the same.
Thanks, it was what i thought. I am 100% sure the potentiometer is flawless as it was modulating correctly when problem was present. The pattern when the bug is present is controller hot. With the accelerator fully actuated, the truck will drive but like it was on the brakes so it will accelerate slowly and after the timer set at function #3 timer has reach the end then 1A is closing while the truck has not reached the correct speed. I have probed output of REC1 and noticed that 1A closes even if rec1 is at 50% output (24V to 30V). I suspect REC1 becomes resistive while getting hot but the oscillator card doesn't see it so the countdown of function 3 occurs normally. Am I all wrong or does it make sense? I dont like replacing parts like a guess until I find the good one. Thanks a lot all.
To clarify 1A operation for the EV100 system; the control card monitors the "on-time" of the on board oscillator, when the card reaches 95% "on-time" it activates the countdown timer set as function #3, when the timer reaches 0 it engages the 1A contactor.
Mmm maybe I am mistaking but function6 is 1A current drop out. In. Other word, if the motor current exceed the setting then 1A will open this protecting the motor against over current. There is no really option to prevent 1A to close except to remove the contact itself?
Function code #6 if you set that to 255 that will turn off 1A and wont let it work try that and see if it helps
Have checked the potentiometer at tb3 and it was flawless. Moving from 3.8V depressed to 0.5V fully actuated. Tried to catch the potentiometer in a faulty reading but on the 100s actuation it was good. But what can I say, for me the speed control was working fine at the verification. But the fact with the settings is that truck was ok in the past and I know for sure that nobody had acces to a handset except me so I'm kinda set this option away. I more thinking of a bad component but when it is not always its harder to find... Can the current sensor be the source. In other word, there is a ramp you can adjust to set the acceleration rate and when it reach close to 95% of maximum speed, 1A will close. The fact that it will sometimes close with throttle half depressed and the speed ramp that seems to works ok make me think. How the logic card knows that the truck has reach the necessary speed to close the 1A?? There is no speed sensor on the motor.... So it is the current?
have some info somewhere on ev 100 yale system think its a general set up not sure what truck its from if you need it
Hi Mate
Check how fast your point at TB1 drops from 3.5 volts to 0v? this should be a steady drop as you accelerate. Sometimes the foot controllers can get water damage and cause erratic behaviour.
Thanks for the fast reply. I have tables for this card and yes it seems to miss two letter but there is none more written on the sticker that is not damaged to. The fact is I changed the function 3 acceleration control and 1A setting from 10 to 35. But it seems that 1A will close even if not full throttle is asked by the operator. I will go back there today and I will try to feel the problem better as in when situation it occurs the most, also will carefully check the potentiometer like suggested in the first post. I will come back with more info and try also to find another identification number on the card see if complete.
I think you will need an LX hand set to retrieve fault codes looking at the card number you have put in your post is there two leters missing of the end of the card number such as TT OR TX,MT,MX MAYBE PX, because there are different adjustments tables for the different cards, The 1A contactor is activated after the contrled acceleration time which can be any time between.2 to 65 seconds, If you can give me the card number complete I may be able to sort function value table for you.
Titus
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