Recently purchased a 2010 Nissan 30 forklift (MCP1F1A15LV) with the K21L Lpg engine. Previous owner said it "shut off" and wouldn't restart one day and he didn't want to be bothered with it (he had multiple brand new Toyota lifts so this was an 'extra'). Found a broken battery terminal, fixed it, put in a new battery, strapped a tank on it and it fired right up. Used it a few times with no issue and the it popped an E-28 code (cam sensor) and began stalling out on occasion and then one time it wouldn't restart. Let it cool off and it would start and run for about a minute and shut off. So I ordered a new cam and crank sensor and installed them along with new NJK spark plugs. Started once, ran kinda rough and shut off, never started again. Wouldn't even fire on starting fluid and also kicked an E-27 code as well now. They were cheapie sensors so I ordered Nissan sensors (might be fake, got them online), part# 23731-AL60C & 23731-6J90B. Installed them and it still wouldn't start. Gave it a quick shot of starting fluid and it fired right up and ran beautiful. Thought it was fixed, but no. Shut it off, won't start. If I keep trying and trying and trying (multiple key cycles), sometimes it will fire and run fine. But usually have to give it a quick shot of fluid for it to fire. It will run all day perfectly fine as long as you don't shut it off, but once you shut it off you need starting fluid to get it restarted usually. I'm at a complete loss because it's obviously getting fuel and spark, and I did a compression test and it's 190# across the board. I don't know a lot about Lpg engines, so I don't know what to look at as far as fuel. But it wasn't doing this before the sensor went bad. And it's not throwing codes for the sensors now so I would assume they're working properly. Any thoughts?
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Ok, took drain plug out of vaporizer and only a single drop of yellowish/clear fluid came out (at operating temp). Screen in fuel line at "carb" looks like new. Pulled the injector and everything was clean inside, o-oring was intact. I should have previously mentioned this unit only has 1800 hours on it and is extremely clean under the hood. Did some more troubleshooting though and found something interesting. I did check for spark before, and it appears to have it fine, bit that was with and old spark plug. Just checked it again with an actual spark tester, and it appears to have spark on the initial rotation but then immediately goes away. Sometimes it will spark o. The 2nd revolution, and the motor "tries" to start, and sometimes does, but no spark after that. However, give it a shot of ether and it will fire right up and stay sparking. I even tried putting the original crank sensor back in and it still does the same thing (the cam sensor was the one originally throwing the code but I replaced them both). I dunno what's going on here. What could cause it to lose spark after the first or second revolution?
You might have a few different issues causing that problem. First of all, propane has an oil residue in it that can build up inside of the vaporizer. There is a 10 or 12mm drain plug [can't remember for sure] on the bottom that needs to be removed when the unit is hot so this build-up called tar turns to liquid and will drain out. Wear rubber gloves and drain it on shop towels or paper towels. This liquid stinks and will soak into your skin and doesn't wash out very easy. DON'T LOSE THE PLUG IT'S METRIC THREAD!!! There is also a fine mesh screen that is under the 90 degree elbow that the fuel hose attaches to by the mixer/carb that can be plugging up with the same tar. Pull the elbow and spray it with carb cleaner or brake clean. The last thing might be a LPG fuel injector that might be bad or clogging up with the same tar. It is a round solenoid with a black rubber covering located on the top injector housing with 4 screws holding it in. One red wire and one blue wire to it and a inline 3 amp fuse in the red wire. Solenoid should test at roughly 1 olm on the connector. There is also an o-ring that seals it in the housing that sometimes can break and leak fuel past. Usually if that happens it will flood the engine with propane that you would probably hear or smell if the key is turned on. The lockoff only allows fuel to the vaporizer for about 2-3 seconds then shuts off until the engine starts. Hopefully one of these things will help solve your problem. Good Luck
change the gas convertor and lockoff
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