Discussion:
No FWD or REV Movement - Lots of Troubleshooting Inside!

Hello!

We've had this machine for a while. It finally stopped moving.

I'm not sure if this is relevant BUT In the past, we've had problems with the high speed engaging, especially under load and especially in reverse with a load. We learned to deal with it because none of the forklift 'experts' in our area could figure out the issue.

So, here is what I've done:
I removed the side panel and the top panel to access the controller, contactors, and control wiring/switches.

I found the FWD/REV contactors pull in just fine. I'm not too sure which contactor is the 1A but I am willing to bet that the control of that contactor has something to do with this... but I've learned to not jump to conclusions.

I have a schematic of the EV-1 (oh, yeah, the controller I have is the EV-1) but not everything is clearly defined. I am going to assume that the "TRACTION ARM" motor is the one that drives the truck forward and backward. It looks like the FWD & REV contactors are interlocked in several ways (yay redundancy!). So, the positive feed for the motor goes through A1 contactor, then either the F or R contactor depending on the selection at the stick, and then to the motor. The negative side of the motor goes to a sensor which isn't telling me much but it looks like a shunt in the schematics (no clue where this is on the truck), then it connects to Batt neg.

So, to me, if the F & R contactors can engage and if I can assume just for a minute that the inline "sensor" on the negative side of the motor is okay, the only other thing to get in the way of engaging the motor is the 1A contactor.

1A appears to be quite the security guard in this machine. Load, overheating, acceleration... everything can cause this thing not to engage... but I'm not sure where to begin. I see there are a few experts on here and I am hoping you are still around to give me a hand.

Thanks in advance! I can't wait to poke at this more!
  • Posted 18 Jan 2025 06:36
  • By Joshman
  • joined 13 Feb'15 - 28 messages
  • British Columbia, Canada
Thanks for your help!
Showing items 41 - 41 of 41 results.
Hello, a few questions:
1. When attempting to travel do any of the contactors try and close?
2. How do the tips of the A1 contactor look? There shouldn't be lots of black marks or pitting.
3. When stepping on the brake pedal does the brake on the motor fully release?
4. Do the hydraulic functions still work?
5. If you remove Fuse 1 how does it test? It should be no higher than 0.3hms.

With these older machines the travel functions in the handle are on the same circuit as the brake and presence pedal switches. If one of these switches does not close, then the controller will never get an input. I've seen it happen where there isn't enough brake pressure in the lines so the brake never opens even when the operator is on the pedal.

Typically if a contactor is bad it will either become welded closed or close and immediately open back up. If it is either of these, the contactor tips need to be replaced.

Hopefully this helps you down the right path!
  • Posted 18 Jan 2025 07:02
  • By DyslexicNerd_01
  • joined 13 Jun'23 - 225 messages
  • Wisconsin, United States

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