Thanks too for everyone's imput. It is nice to see others willing to help out. I am posting the link to the manual. They are hard to come by so maybe it will help someone else too.
https://www.clarkmhc.com/OM/O-221/index.htm

Well, I'm glad it worked for you. Go's to to show that you never stop learning. Tx for updating us, lesson learned. ;)

I have the truck up and running now. After adjusting the stops so the cylinder does not bottom it no longer spikes the pressure so it does not blow fluid past the rod seal. This is all by Clark's design and getting the manual to read is the proof. It is what the manual says and yes it took care of the problem.

I think that any cylinder with hydraulic pressure pushing the rod out of the bore will leak if the hydraulic pressure isn't governed. I would pressure test the hydraulic pressure supplying the p/s cyl while the cyl is cycling in & out (not dead heading either direction) vs deadheading the cyl in both directions. I guess is the hydraulic pressure is spiking & overcoming the seals.

I'm curious to hear your results after you adjust the throw of the cyl by adjusting the stops. Keep us posted

As I stated before I looked the cylinder all over and found no cracks. I have removed the cylinder and valve again an still can find nothing wrong with it. So.....searched the world over and found a manual I could read on-line. By the book there are 27 steps to correctly adjusting the steering. Step 16 states the cylinder should not bottom at either end and steps 25-27 gives the final adjustments. It builds pressure when it bottoms thus my blowing fluid out the end. There should only be 70-80 psi when not bottomed. You find the spot where it bottoms and adjust the stops to prevent it from bottoming out and building that pressure. Thanks to being an old truck I now have a leak in one of the hoses after suffering the greater pressure. Tomorrow I am getting new hoses and will make the final adjustments and problem should be solved. If anyone else has this problem I hope this information will help them too.

How much oil leaks when the cylinder hits the stop? I think the o ring has a problem. That should be able to withstand very high pressure.

Could that be inside the valve that it bolts up to? I see there is a check valve shown on an exploded view drawing right at the end of the cylinder. Item 26.005

You have to replace the cylinder assembly. They use to be available as a rebuilt. Not sure if they are still available.

Brewski,
If it is on the piston then there would be no access to it as the cylinder is a welded assembly. You could cut out the weld to service it but that is just a pain to remove again. Yeah I know I still have to do what I need to to get it all right again.

If I remember correctly there is a dump poppet on the ram piston the dumps fluid when the ram is at full stroke.

Yes but that still does not explain why it only does it at the limit of it's stroke. Is it possible that if the piston bottoms out it is blocking a return passage inside allowing to much pressure to the rod seal?

I would try another o ring. You can do that without taking the cylinder off if you're tricky. I've done lots of those and there really isn't any chronic problems that they have.

Yes I got the seals in with no problem. It came with an O ring to fill the U cup as in many hydraulic seals.

Were you able to get the special seal in place without it rolling over? You could try a O ring instead.

Adams1,
Yes it is an oldie but it still runs great with very little problems. I have no idea where to check the relief pressure or what pressure it should read for that matter. I did mike the rod and it was right up to size with no scoring. It does not leak until I hit the steering limit and that has me confused.