hello all. working on a crown rc302040
ser # 1a222700
The machine is slow. Battery is good. Seems to be faster in reverse. Seems to completely quit sometimes when turning handle to the left. I'm aware of the switches underneath that slow speeds depending on which way you're turning. I just replaced the rear wheels on this machine and while I was under there I repaired the wiring on one of the switches and cleaned them up. But without a manual, what other checks could I do? Adjust the pot in the multifunction handle? Thanks.
Showing items 1 - 15 of 36 results.
I only have 10 or 11v at all the drive motor terminals, battery voltage is 36.94v. Anyone know what could cause this?
I took apart the diode block, with the SCR, main rec and stuff, cleaned it all up checked all the wiring, did what tests I could, and reassembled it all. Everything back correct, and now the machine won't even move ! You can hear the motors trying, both contactors closing up in both directions. One contactor is new. It just has no **** , a few hours ago it was running around the shop full speed. w.t.f. !!!!
just lifted machine up in air to verify both drive wheels are spinning. they are, just slowly. speed is being reduced somehow.
spoke too soon, intermittent problem. lost speed again. got it back, lost again. here we go again with the diag.
It was the entry bar switch. I jumped the 2 pin connector down there and now have full speed.
What is the total battery volts at the main connector? If you are reading 36 volts with no load your batteries are dead.
Tb11 voltages are :
1 = 32v
2 = 0v
3 = 0v
4 = 0v
5 = 36v
6 = 36v
steer switch inputs are good, height switch is working. machine is still slow, tilt up also very slow. any ideas at all ?
Well we sent the old battery out and I didn't get the details I guess it was bad. Replaced it with what looks to be like a reman... forklift is moving now but it is still slow.
any other ideas before possibly sending battery out to be repaired?
getting about 2.110 volts out of each cell... i'm sure this has a lot to do with it considering manual states older batteries can read 2.45 to 2.55.....
moving again now after a short charge... still slow as not being able to pull a greasy string out a cats rear end.
the switch is the same, and I've installed a different one in better shape, without resistor... i tested the switch before install and its doing what its supposed to do... now the machine won't even move fw/rev...... tried old switch again, in hand, with resistor wired up, without resistor, swapped wires... nothing... this thing is such a **** and i'm really getting sick of it lol. putting it on charge for now..
The switch should be the same
Thanks for the explanation. Understood, I guess the resistor could be completely bypassed then without any change of machine operation? (admitting freezing temps).. What I'm getting at is can I replace it with a switch that does not have the resistor included?
Those resistors act as heaters for the switches. That truck was built for freezer applications. When the sensor senses temps below 32 degrees, it pulls in a relay and sends voltage to those heaters. It keeps moisture from forming inside the switch.
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