I only have 10 or 11v at all the drive motor terminals, battery voltage is 36.94v. Anyone know what could cause this?

I took apart the diode block, with the SCR, main rec and stuff, cleaned it all up checked all the wiring, did what tests I could, and reassembled it all. Everything back correct, and now the machine won't even move ! You can hear the motors trying, both contactors closing up in both directions. One contactor is new. It just has no **** , a few hours ago it was running around the shop full speed. w.t.f. !!!!

just lifted machine up in air to verify both drive wheels are spinning. they are, just slowly. speed is being reduced somehow.

spoke too soon, intermittent problem. lost speed again. got it back, lost again. here we go again with the diag.

It was the entry bar switch. I jumped the 2 pin connector down there and now have full speed.

What is the total battery volts at the main connector? If you are reading 36 volts with no load your batteries are dead.

Tb11 voltages are :
1 = 32v
2 = 0v
3 = 0v
4 = 0v
5 = 36v
6 = 36v

steer switch inputs are good, height switch is working. machine is still slow, tilt up also very slow. any ideas at all ?

Well we sent the old battery out and I didn't get the details I guess it was bad. Replaced it with what looks to be like a reman... forklift is moving now but it is still slow.

any other ideas before possibly sending battery out to be repaired?

getting about 2.110 volts out of each cell... i'm sure this has a lot to do with it considering manual states older batteries can read 2.45 to 2.55.....

moving again now after a short charge... still slow as not being able to pull a greasy string out a cats rear end.

the switch is the same, and I've installed a different one in better shape, without resistor... i tested the switch before install and its doing what its supposed to do... now the machine won't even move fw/rev...... tried old switch again, in hand, with resistor wired up, without resistor, swapped wires... nothing... this thing is such a **** and i'm really getting sick of it lol. putting it on charge for now..

The switch should be the same

Thanks for the explanation. Understood, I guess the resistor could be completely bypassed then without any change of machine operation? (admitting freezing temps).. What I'm getting at is can I replace it with a switch that does not have the resistor included?

Those resistors act as heaters for the switches. That truck was built for freezer applications. When the sensor senses temps below 32 degrees, it pulls in a relay and sends voltage to those heaters. It keeps moisture from forming inside the switch.

It looks horrible...which is par for the course for this p.o.s. lift. Wire insulation strips right off when you grab the wires... an inch of old gummed up shAt all over switch...... This one has a RES (resistor?) mounted to it... so it has 4 wires, 2 for switch and another 2 for the RES. I completely disconnected the two going to the contactor panel, nothing changed. I reinstalled them and disconnected the other two going to terminal block TB405, and lost fw/rev... And the arm is moving as it should.

I have another one I could try off our junk lift, but it doesn't have the style with the "RES"... which is a side question I don't completely understand what is the RES doing exactly and why is it needed on top of the switch? Same with steering limit switches I noticed they have them too.

by the way battery voltage on this machine is low like 36v they have already had it rebuilt once a year or two ago. supervisor mentioned having it sent out to get rebuilt again.... but it would operate at a normal speed even with the battery issue...

Mast height switch working? Truck slows down above free lift

Replaced pot according to procedure. machine is operating better and responds to the control handle better, but is still slow... basically a creep.. any other things to check/try? thanks.

alright thanks bud. I'm going to try and get superv. to get one ordered and go from there..

A good pot maxes out at 5k to 5.5k ohms