Hyster S30C:
Removing Front Wheel

Lost braking. Visible lines look ok. Fluid is leaking out of the wheel. I'm thinking the wheel cylinder needs a rebuild. But, won't know until I can see it.

The manual says, "Unscrew the nuts retaining the wheel and with a soft-faced hammer rap the wheel to loosen the tapered dowels. Fig. 4. Remove the dowels." Alright, up until, "...with a soft-faced hammer rap the wheel to loosen the tapered dowels. Fig. 4. Remove the dowels."

Two days later I've worked from a 2lb rubber mallet through my collection of lumps, and mallets, up to a 12lb sledge, to no avail. Not sure I understand what's supposed to happen. I'm visualizing these dowels as tapered sleeves of a springy steel that slide over the studs. That when the lugs are tightened they press the sleeves into the holes centering the hub and compressing the sleeve so it locks to the stud. No way to remove the wheel without releasing the dowels. The vibration from hammering should loosen the dowels and allow them to expand? Right? Not happening.

Aside from whaling away with the hammers, I've made a few attempts at applying force directly to the dowels. Used a 3/4" black pipe nipple that fit over the dowels focusing on the area immediately around the dowels. No luck! I'm stuck. Any ideas? Do I just have to hit it harder?
  • Posted 19 Nov 2021 11:33
  • Modified 21 Nov 2021 01:28 by poster
  • Discussion started by jmon
  • New Jersey, United States
Showing items 1 - 4 of 4 results.
Who hasn't ran into trouble with these little cones? Another "if all else fails" put the lug nuts back on loosely, then drive the truck steering back and forth. This will often times get them loosened up.
  • Posted 3 Dec 2021 01:14
  • Reply by ErichO
  • Washington, United States
Wack the wheel with a sledge hammer then use a small screw driver to spread the cone apart and unscrew it , it takes time just go at it and it will come off
  • Posted 30 Nov 2021 01:28
  • Reply by stillworkin
  • New York, United States
Thanks for the input lumberjack

The manual calls them tapered dowels. Locking cones works as well for me.

Still working on them. PB Blaster and brake fluid as penetrating oil and rust busters. Then hammer around the rim, and let it sit some more. That's going to take who knows how long. It's a 1970 machine, I've owned it since 1999, possible the wheel's never been off. I do have pneumatic hammers. Use them on the rim same as the sledge? Maybe a short stroke tool? Hoping to vibrate the oil into the rust mass? I'll give that a try.

Meanwhile, I think I'm going to cut the line to the bad cylinder, cap it with a bleeder valve, and try to get the system up with only one wheel online. Picked up the bleeder assembly Wednesday, Thanksgiving yesterday, going to give it a go tomorrow. Won't work at any speed. Have to take it slow, but I mostly use the truck in a 20' x 20' area. One brake should do until I can get the other broken loose.
Wish me luck
  • Posted 27 Nov 2021 03:19
  • Modified 27 Nov 2021 03:20 by poster
  • Reply by jmon
  • New Jersey, United States
They call them dowels? I seen locking cones around Hyster wheel studs before but I wouldn't call them dowels.

I've run into tough ones before but they all broke free via hammer. Maybe try an air hammer and penetrating oil?

Worst case, you could pull the axle and remove the wheel bearings, which you have to do anyway. Then pull the brake drum and wheel assembly as one piece. Only problem would be in trying to reinstall without damaging the grease seals. A wheel dolly would help.
  • Posted 26 Nov 2021 03:01
  • Reply by lumberjack
  • Maryland, United States

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