Hyster E50XM:
No traction

Hi all,

Power steering and hydraulics fine, no traction.

Both direction contractors close when monotrol pedal is pressed, all fuses removed and checked as I know these siba fuses can often look good but won't carry any juice if they are cracked slightly but these are all good.

I'm getting 24v at the traction motor once direction contractors pull in. Drive motor brushes were seized solid, never checked for 10 years plus but I've managed to free them off, motor windings look burnt and commutator is filthy, blew it all out and cleaned up as best as possible but still no go, any ideas chaps?
  • Posted 8 Dec 2021 18:59
  • Discussion started by Forking_Around
  • New Zealand
Showing items 1 - 7 of 7 results.
thanks for the reply swoop through l was loosing my mind.
  • Posted 4 May 2022 11:59
  • Reply by Scott_
  • Pennsylvania, United States
Scott
Hi guy's, thanks for the invaluable feedback, really appreciate your input on this one.

So, we've pulled out the job card from last year (Tec no longer with us so we can only go by what's on the job card)

"Return to customer with handset, plug in handset, error code 25, no traction, contactor slow to drop in/out. Collect parts, return and fit new 1A contactor, run and test, return to service"

That's it?????

Forklift has been fine (touch wood) ever since?

So, has he perhaps found something else and didn't note it on job card or just got lucky?
sure scott_, your on the mark
the 1A contactor is basically a direct connection across the battery.
if the tips were stuck it would of faulted during the system check at 'key on'.
if they don't close you just remain in full scr range which only gets to about 80% power from the battery.
  • Posted 3 May 2022 12:40
  • Modified 3 May 2022 12:41 by poster
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
I read all the replies l see that this was fixed after the 1a contactor was changed l am thinking this machine has ev 100 controller in it or maybe not what l don't understand is unless the 1Acontactor was stuck in should still move even if 1A. was not pulling in. what changed by replacing the contactor it just would not get full battery voltage when running or am l wrong.
  • Posted 3 May 2022 11:17
  • Reply by Scott_
  • Pennsylvania, United States
Scott
Hey man, sorry for the late reply but thought I'd let you know you were bang on the money, swapped out A1 contactor even though it looked pretty good it just didn't seem to slap in hard, it was more of a lazy slow drop in drop out type of thing, and away she went, nice one, thanks
Yeah, I thought it was odd to only have 24v but assumed that it only got full battery voltage once the top speed contactor pulled in but obviously this isn't the case?

I'll re-check those tips again but they did look pretty good

Thanks
voltage at the drive motor is only 24v?
should be battery volts
recheck the directional contactors
activate the direction and press the accelerator pedal and use an insulated screwdriver or even your finger, put it on the center insulator and wiggle the movable tips on the contactors, it sounds as if one side is not making on one of them.
the tips may look good but if they are worn down they may not make good enough contact.
  • Posted 9 Dec 2021 15:52
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com

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