i was checking the hydraulic motor for a short to cover any possibilities. here is the readings you asked for with traction motor cables off the motor. S1 TO E2 0.532 ON TM1 0.531 TM2 S2 TO E1 6.81 TM2 1.1 S1-E1 0.3 0 TM1 S1 TO E1 6.89 ON TM2 S2 TO E2 0.536 ON TM1 0.536 ON TM2 and on battery test. positive lead of meter to battery negative lead on frame 0.125 volts and negative lead of meter to battery and positive lead to frame 0.210 volts. the data tag on the traction motor says AU2500 FOR A DATE CODE

Ok why are you checking hyd motor ? I'm not sure. So one test missing. I need the motor cables off the motor and meter on ohms. Test from S1 to E2, s2 to E1 and from S1 to E1, and S2 to E2 and give me the numbers. How old is the motor ? Also on testing the battery I need you to connect the positive lead on you meter to the + on the battery and the negative to the frame then do negative lead to the negative of the battery and positive to the frame and let me know the reading.

ok here is the test results. From A2/S2 is open. Voltage to the frame ,battery to the frame i show nothing. checked power fuses removed ,continuity on all three. checked cables a few of them look scuffed up, removed them and bent looking for open cuts. looked ok, no wire showing. cable ends look ok. S1 to S2 traction had continuity. S1 to S2 hyd motor had continuity. E1 to E2 on Q1 meter shows 3.7 and beeps. checked S2 to frame open. did the Q1 test. Big E to C continuity meter beeps. C to E continuity meter beeps. E to C continuity meter beeps. E to B 53.6 ohms no beep. C to B 54.6 no beep. B to E 54.3 no beep. rec 1 blown continuity both ways. snubs both together 2.6 meter beeps not sure how to test tm's

Ok ok. I get what your doing. So no this test is a fail because as long as the brushes on the motor are attached you would always have some continuity.

the test i was talking about was when checking for shorts at the traction motor cable removed from traction motor terminal A2. With my meter lead attached to the A2 cable and the other lead from meter to FU5 i had continuity. Also same method but removing lead from FU5 to negative stand off just above heat sink i also had continuity. positive side makes sense to me because that's where the other end of the cable goes. but why did i have continuity on the negative side ? i can't have continuity on both positive and negative sides on the same cable. but i will check your latest test procedures and give the results. Again i appreciate your help.

Not fallowing the test your trying to run. Testing the block is from A2/S2 to the frame of the unit It should be open. I would start by there. This is what I do each time. I 1st check voltage to the frame to make sure my battery isn't shorting to the frame. Then I take off the power fuses and check them not connected to the unit. After if all this checks good I check my cables. I've had a lot of cables get damage at the donuts onto of the motor. I check check my motor. S1 to s2 the e1 to e2 and then across if this is good I then run test. Knowing on what part of the self test it fails I can determine where to start. I check s2 to frame. I dunno if this unit has regen but I've had regen drive me crazy with f2, 26 and 23. This can be disconnected. Say the short to frame, motor and block are good I then run my ramping test to make sure the power card is giving me the voltage to the Q1 and then I test the Q1 to see if it ramping too. I've also had Raymond's code out 23 and had to replace the Q1 power card and TMs all at once's. At times this is needed. Run the test exactly like this and let me know the out comes.

i'm confused trying to find the short that's blowing Q1. here's what is confusing me. with traction motor cable A2 off the motor and the other lead on negative stand off i get continuity A2 cable on both negative stand off and positive fuses fuse 5. tracing down the A2 cable i believe it's labeled TA-2 on the FU-5 FUSE. I get i should have continuity on fuse 5 but why negative ? would be nice to have a wiring diagram.

Correct. The cable can not have continuation to the frame of the unit. Because this means your onion paper is leaking, cut or damage. Your definitely on the right track. Something is shorting the circuit. Just today I repair a code 23 by removing the block putting a piece of cardboard and code gone. I order the skin for tomorrow.

SINCE FURTHER SHORT TESTING I FOUND THE TRATION MOTOR CABLE A2 REMOVED FROM MOTOR LABLED MD-A2 SHOWING CONTINUITY AT THE NEG STAND OFF ABOVE HEAT SINK WHICH IS ALSO CONNECTED TO Q1 BIG E TERMINAL. CABLE TP 4 GOING TO HYDRAULIC MOTOR ON TOP LEFT SIDE AND DOWN TO I BELIVE POWER STEERING MOTOR ABOVE TRACTION MOTOR. I GOING TO CHECK IT NEXT. I HOPE I'M ON THE RIGHT TRCCK NOW

What I've learn on many years of working on Raymond is Q1 and fuses don't blow because they are old, so something is taking it. I'll give an example. I had a technician 3 days working on a code 26 and after 3 days I pass by and found a small cut on the motor cables touching the ring loop. You could pass your hand and you couldn't feel the cut. You had to actually bent the cable to see the opening. This tech replace power cards and TM. He was about to order a motor before we took a look at it. So if your Q1 is bad make sure the diode is good and the motor. Also if you take out S1 cable and ohm meter the cable to the frame it should be open that how I test the block on the Q1. Best of luck.

i ran test with meter on Q1 negative lead on e positive lead on B ran O14 test. results on dash wwhen hitting button for side shift display read 005A the meter read 000 so looks like Q1,Rec 3 , C1, or rec 2

Ok do this. Negative to Q1 E and the positive to Q1 B. Run test O14 and with side shift button do a ramping test. Voltage should be 0-2.5v. If voltage ramps pass 3v replace power card. If it checks ok the your issue is the snubber circuit. Q1, reg 3, c1 or rec 2.

i ran test O17 it displays 000 A i will check voltage outputs on power card

Ok. So system card would code you out immediately as soon as you flip the key switch. So now that we know that the code is coming out after the 1st selftest the issue is in either power card or Q1 suppressor system. To determent this is easy. Test 017 ramping test checks the Q1. Also simple is fallowing voltage from the system card to the power card and from the power card to the Q1. What I find weird is different motor gives you code 26. Not 23. So code 26 will come ahead of 23 because 26 kicks run the power card side which is before test in the Q1 circuit. If you tell replace motor and code 23 continue then I would understand. But change motors goes from 23 to 26 somethings not right. Also this code 26 started coming out after your disconnected leads on the motor. I'm hopping you didn't blow the power card and TMs.

i paid more attention to when the code shows up it comes up in the middle of the second self check. i rechecked traction motor with the brake released. Did not see the motor kick. i also tried unhooking motor leads and hooking leads to another motor in another unit. i got code 26 while hooked to the other traction motor. i spoke to a Raymond tech they said it could be in the tractor manager card. they also said the traction motor could have a short but not findable. which i would think you would be able to find a short in the motor. i can't find a short with a multi meter.

Unplugging the motor if you did the field side it will code 26. If you unplug the armature side then it's a code 23. So that's not a good test procedure.

Thank you for your help. the code 23 comes up right after the self check is ending. i had unhooked two traction motor leads then got code 26. i will try the suggestion you gave. i checked the traction motor for shorts but just did the basic lead to motor housing.

Hi. So it sounds to me that it passes both self test from what you're describing. The last self test what the unit does is send voltage to the drive motor to make sure the breaks are good. Please recheck the motor. Make sure you have opening from the amateur to the field. Also to the frame. Also remember this if you replace any components like the Q1 and diode and the motor was shorting out you could have taken out the new Q1. There's a simple test to check the Q1 by o17 ramping. On a code 23 I pay a lot of attention to when the code comes on this tells me a lot of where to start. It could be something as simple as a power fuse. But if the code 23 is at the end chances are is you're motor. Loosen the breaks and if the unit kicks the motor and it codes out 23 then your motor is the issue. Code 84 mite come up too but 23 is 1st.