you can say that again
at my old shop's old location they had pressure washed machines for years
then one day the NYSDEP (New York State Dept of Environmental Protection) came in, tested the sewer and soil around the shop
i think it was in the area of $50,000 for fines and cleanup
from what i hear that's not a bad price lol

also i wouldn't ever pick the counterweight by the OHG
if can see picking the counterweight with the OHG still attached but the OHG could buckle under that kind of stress
plus you may weaken it (welds) by stressing it

i would think that if the counterweight was picked with the OHG still attached to it, it wouldnt throw the center of gravity off that much to make the load unmanageable (or you could steady it while some1 else worked the lift)

remember that the OHG is a one shot deal
if something hits, bends, or stresses it, it may not protect the operator if something falls on it (it may act more like a mouse trap in that situation)
after an OHG has done its job (in an accident) or if its damaged its supposed to be replaced with a new one

i hate battery work ,no matter how many times you wash your hand they still stink for days even with gloves on. gone are the days when you could blast it clean with the pressure washer

Well I finally got back to this problem today. The motor, pump, and battery cables are lined up in a flat straight row and go through a 3/4 inch high slot in the bottom of the weldment plate that's behind the battery. It was like someone poured concrete back there. The only way to get at them was to remove the counterweight. I couldn't get the 2 big bolts out that secure the OHG to the counterweight. They have never been removed. They go straight up into the OHG and are in recesses in the counterweight. The longest breaker bar I could use was about 3 feet because it had to be facing forward and the front truck was up there. I got one to creak but they suffered from the battery fumes for years. So I unbolted the front of the OHG and lifted the counterweight off using the OHG. First time I ever did that.

The only way I could get the cables out was to cut one off and drill through were it went through that 1 inch thick plate with the slot in it. Then I could chip away and free up the other ones. Finally got them free, cleaned up, and replaced as needed. 2 megohms of resistance to the frame.

Five hours of labor, most of it working in battery crap, and it's fixed. It was not fun.

Thanks for the help. I did try the new scr's before the operator told me saw a 57 code when it acted up. The current sensor must have been sensing reverse polary due to the cable problems.

justinm, I'm in the Albany area.

also check for frame voltage
check you heavy negative power cable under the battery too
make sure its not touching the frame either rubbed through or corroded like Ed said

unplug the battery
with your DVM check resistance from the battery connector on the truck to the frame
you should read over a few megohms
any less id look at all of your heavy cables
also check the motor cables to the frame the same way
if you have regen you have to check A2 from the motor side of the RB contactor with the battery unplugged seeing its a normally open contactor

where in NY are you?
im on long island
if you need help email me
its in my profile (click my screename)

the 1 2 and 5 rec didnt have anything to do with this code
if they were bad youd get diff codes

Edward, the motor cables are packed in corrosion where they run to the back of the truck under the battery at the back. I will have to hack them out of there and replace them. Thanks, I think that could be it. There are no back up alarms or aftermarket stuff on the truck, all the wiring is original.

closely eyeball the power cables from the motor to the controller, especially where they run under the battery, (pull out battery and clean that area, and allow to dry completely,) and replace any cables that the insulation is cracked or have been sitting in battery acid produced corrosion.
also be SURE the backup alarm (and all other after market accessories like a CB radio) are/is correctly wired in to both positive and a good negative that is for _sure_ a battery negative, and not just a wire that seems to have a negative value when tested.

Yes, it jumps full speed for a split second then nothing. I tried new 2,5,and 1 scr's and that didn't fix it. That code says it sensed reverse polarity from the current sensor which has be baffled because all the wiring is original and for that to happen the wires on the sensor or cables on the armiture would have to been switched. I'll check the scr connections again to be sure.

you say jump as in full speed then nothing. check 2 rec and 5 rec connections are good. look down the side of the big scr1 block you,ll see 2 little black blocks with a couple of screw connection and a spade terminal.i,m sure there is a little bar that connects them. 1 should have a red dot on it ,they look the same but they are different. if all is tight and good, replace them. should stop jumping