Discussion:
No fire through the ignition coil

Our CGP30 s/n P365LI-0456-9489 just stopped starting. Found that there wasn't current coming out of the ignition module to the coil. Replaced the module and now there is power to the coil but no fire coming out.

Anyone have any suggestions??
  • Posted 6 Sep 2014 05:19
  • By JoshMcD
  • joined 6 Sep'14 - 3 messages
  • Texas, United States
Showing items 1 - 6 of 6 results.
Just an update. We finally broke down and had Clark come out and look at our truck. After several attempts at finding the righ schematics for our truck and not having any luck, the tech used a manual out of an older chevy to check the rest of the wiring. He finally ended up finding that the windings in the distributor and broken down. He replaced the distributor and got us up and running again. 3 trips from the dealer and $1,000 and we are up and running and glad for it! Thanks for all of the effort on this.
  • Posted 14 Sep 2014 00:53
  • By JoshMcD
  • joined 6 Sep'14 - 3 messages
  • Texas, United States
Post an email in your profile or send me an email,mine is in my profile........
  • Posted 7 Sep 2014 03:41
  • By kevin_t
  • joined 2 Dec'10 - 1,301 messages
  • Pennsylvania, United States
Kevin, the ignition coil on this unit is a different setup than the part number you gave. The coil that I have is 925061.
By replacing the ignition module (we used OEM) we were able to get power to left port on the top plug (trying to do diagnostics without a wsm) but we still were not getting spark out of the coil. We replaced the coil as well but still no spark.
The system seems pretty straight forward. Not sure what we could be missing. Im sure a wiring diagram would come in handy!
  • Posted 7 Sep 2014 02:35
  • By JoshMcD
  • joined 6 Sep'14 - 3 messages
  • Texas, United States
The ignition module you installed- OEM or aftermarket?

With the ignition turned off- If you disconnect all wiring to the coil- install a jumper wire to the (+) side of the coil & then ground & un-ground the (-) side- will the coil then throw a good spark (jump at least 1/2" & bright blue? If so- the module's faulty- if not- coil's bad.

Be sure to do as kevin said also- check the ballast.
  • Posted 6 Sep 2014 08:09
  • By bbforks
  • joined 1 Mar'12 - 1,437 messages
  • Pennsylvania, United States
bbforks (at) Hotmail (dot) com
Customers love technology- until they have to pay to fix it!
Also check the ballast resistor that's mounted on the coil....resistance should read 1.22 - 1.49 Ohms.....
Clark part number for the coil and ballast resistor assembly is: 918314
  • Posted 6 Sep 2014 07:04
  • By kevin_t
  • joined 2 Dec'10 - 1,301 messages
  • Pennsylvania, United States
There is a number of possibilities could be to large of an air gap between the signal rotor and pickup midule in the distributor,it should have an air gap of.031 in.
There could be an open or short in the primary or secondary windings in the coil: remove the coil and ohm the primary and secondary windings: the primary should be 1.08-1.32 ohms between the positive and negative control wires.
The secondary resistance should be: 22.1-29.9 Kilo ohms between the negative control wire and the spark output terminal(the coil plug wire tower that goes from the coil to the distributor).....
Check to make sure you have a good ground connection from the coil negative to ground.
  • Posted 6 Sep 2014 06:45
  • By kevin_t
  • joined 2 Dec'10 - 1,301 messages
  • Pennsylvania, United States

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