jhb1017j@aol(Dot) com

You cannot put you email as it is written in this forum. You must write your email as it appears and write "dot" where the period appears in the address.

Ex. my address is J_CFORKLIFT@YAHOO (DOT) COM

Answering your first question, yes I did remove the distributor. I could see down in the motor that the tang on top of the oil pump is not turning.
I will get you some pics tomorrow and email them to you.
My motto "Slow but sure" Been around for a while learned about doing things too fast not always good idea.

My email is [email address removed]

Joe

Did you remove the dist 1st?

I should have some lit. on the 163, I'll need your email. If you could email me some photos of the machine and what you have performed thus far, it should jar the memory banks.

You'll probably have to lift the front of the motor w/ a come along about 6". Place some wood beneath the trany to support, then lower alittle. Remove the torque convertor bolts from the fly wheel. The torque should spin freely. Remove the bolts going to the engine from the trany side.

The engine should be ready to be removed. Remember, the trany must be secure on the wood, there should be little downward resistance on the engine/trany. The torque stays w/ the transmission. I usually split the engine/trany w/ screw drivers. Be careful not to get hurt, if done incorrectly somthing may drop hard, no undo excessive pressure or force.

The engine should be gently rocked out and backwards, nothing missing, nothing broken on your person.

Send me the photos for a clearer understanding.

J_CFORKLIFT@YAHOO ( DOT) COM

I have all the backend ready. Took out radiator and rear motor mount. All wires and hoses are disconnected. What do I have to remove on the front end? If you have any info on the F163 I would appreciate it very much. If you make copies and send them to me I will pay for it. Does the torque converter come out with the engine?

Joe

Yea, I not using a cane or any type of walking aid, but computers and VCR's sure have me stumped

7777...man!! you're showing your age. flatheads bring back lots of memories and they remind me that i am closer and closer to antique status. antiques get stripped, buffed and polished regularly.

Going back in my memory, there is a shaft that runs down to the oil pump. The shaft connects the bottom of the dist to the top of the pump. The cam shaft mates to the pump via gears. I think there is a roll pin on the pump that probably sheared, or a roll pin on the dist that might have sheared.

Remove the dist assembly, be careful they usually freeze on. If it will not budge use plenty of thin spray lube to free it. This may take several days ( the dist break very easy).

After you remove the dist, see if you can turn the shaft in the engine, w/ a screw driver, it should NOT be able to move. Examine the dist, that might be the problem.

Again, this is all on past memory. I may have some literture on the 163, it is Hyster style though. There isn't much difference.

The reason I am looking at the oil pump is because the rotor on the distributor is not turning. I can see where the shaft connects to the oil pump and the tang that turns the shaft is not turning?

Joe

why do you want change the oil pump? low pressure? There is a valve on the engine that you might want to inspect 1st. Its a spring loaded check valve that helps create oil pressure.

The F163 is a later model of the F162. Externally you can tell the difference by looking at the fuel pump or the fuel pump block cover. The F163 has the 2 bolts for the F P horizontal, the F162 has the bolts diagonal, your truck is probably a 163.

Those engines are great, they help win WW2, put in many vehicles, very reliable

7777 - Thanks for the reply. I have all the time in the world. I am semi-retired. I'll just take my time and do the job. Your information will serve me well. Being semi-retired and owning the business means you still have all the responsibilities but you just don't give a hoot! Any other info you can think of would be greatly appreciated. I have a lot of patience, which I learned from working on my Harley.

Joe B

Is the machine worth the repair? There is alot of labor pulling a motor on an old clark. Its been a while for that old of a truck, but, hood, radiator, fuel system, linkages etc. are removed 1st.

Next check to see where the hydraulic tank has a large feed hose hooked to the pump. If the hydraulic pump is attached to the engine, you must empty the the 10 gallons of oil.

Front engine mount (rear of the truck) nuts are taken out. I usually use a "come along" rachet cable hooked to the over head guard and pull the front of the motor up, caulk up the trany w/ wood, remove the torque convertor bolts from the fly wheel( automatics), then trany bolts. Rock the engine while pulling it backwards.
Come along the engine high enough to pull it out w/ another machine, or engine lift, or by hand if you have help. There maybe a thing or to that I forgot but those machines are a real pain.

Also when you been to apply your skills on an old piece of $#@*, you have to contend w/ the domino theory. Things that are ready to break, are going to break after you touch them.

Unless the machine is worth that kind of time, I probably wouldn't do it.