hey there prentice
I have been reading your post a few things you might check are
1.check this item around the control system you should see what looks like a coil wound copper wire with a coating of laquer on it right near the diodes it is reasonably big one end of it will be bolted onto the heatsink check physically that the end where the eyelet is not broken sometimes they break but because the copper coil is quite stiff stays in the same position so you don't see the break
2.make sure that the line contactor is not dropping out when you turn on the ignition
3.make sure that the drive motor and cables are ok because the reason for the t fuse is a broken or loose terminal/cable
if you had had a blown fuse it would come up with the same fault
so if you had a broken motor cable that is the same as a blown fuse if you follow what I mean
4.finally make sure that the fw/rev contactors are seating properly as you need the back of the contactor to sit on its tips properly so when one contactor is engaged the other one is making the circuit on its neutral position.

hope this helps good luck

Key turn on - Traction trouble on display
rb contact closes
49 volts to fwd/rev contacts - all fuses good ( including T fuse )
move control lever to fwd/rev - fwd/rev contact click on
press accel pedal - motor attempts to turn then contacts kick off

I have 49 volts to K1 term on T plug Diode and 30 Volts at A1

Removed both diodes -tested ok - swapped and re installed with new thermo compound

same voltages - run diagnostic and stops at T fuse??

Any thoughts or questions
contact me through email

prenticelift at gmail dot com

Prentice when you are sitting on the lift and in neutral and turn on the key, do you hear a contactor close? It seems the lift isn't recognizing a closed contactor or contactor isn't working. You mentioned lift would move slow in initial description. I would check r-b contactor tips and associated bus bars along with brushes. Have seen where electrolytes have boiled over and effected a diode beneath battery. This is true also of units used in application of freezers where the docks/charging area have poor moister control. These can be recognized by a faint beep of the b-u alarm

Spoke to soon......it`s back to T fuse -

Swapped accelerate pot with another unit. same problem.

Hitachi Speed Control Type /SCE/-N12¸

Turn on key switch - display reads traction trouble 011
Ran diagnostic - T fuse -
Put lever into fwd-rev contacts come on-
press accelerator pedal fwd-rev contact kick out
Will remove battery and check cables and motor tomorrow

This is a head scratcher........replace fuses....still Traction code. Let unit sit overnight while I bang my head against wall ( repeatedly )
This morning turned on key.
All systems A OK.......I must have scared the gremlins away......Thanks very much for the advise and e-mails.

Prentice;
With regards to your cushion tire, 2 ton chassis, 5000 lb lift capacity, standard frame truck with a 9.9 kW GE traction motor and a standard panel (part no. 29310-1K200) with ES series control system produced in Maringo in late Apr 97. Have performed an interactive diagnostic using the truck's on board diagnostics? Doing so will help in reduction of troubleshooting time. If you need to know how ck your mail we will forward you the needed info.

Does unit still creep after t fuse replacement? Check drive motor brushes and cables along with bus bars and possible blown out or burned commutator bars.. Without running self diagnostics to pinpoint the actual codes, its a crapshoot. But if lift will creep then it could be something as simple as a accel pot wigging out or speed sensor. More info could be very helpful.