The tech was still thinking it may be a pump issue but he wanted me to monitor the battery usage and how fast the battery drains while in use. So far with less than an hour of use the battery is at 3/4 full. And yes, the battery took alot of water. More than it should have needed but i guess it wasnt checked by anyone else including myself. A basic lack of care that will get more attention from now on. Thanks everyone for your help, Hoagland out.

I'm beginning to tbink on the same line as edwardt with it being battery related.
Sometimes low battery voltage can cause the control system to code out different codes, usually several at a time. And now that you come back and say it improved when water was added is a tell tell sign of battery issues.

I'm curious how much he/you had to add?
If it was alot like 3 to 5 gallons or more then in my mind theres no doubt about the battery being the cause.

I'm sorry i didn't ask you about the battery to start off with because in normal troubleshooting on electric trucks that is the first thing that is always checked.
I saw the codes you posted and just jumped right into that thinking it might of been a switch or circuit problem.

By no means am i blaming the tech. The first time he came he was ill-prepared. The second time he showed up i was here to ensure he went over every square inch of the forklift. He filled the battery cuz in fact it was low on water (i guess ill take the blame for that one) he did his inpections and were currently eliminating the battery from the ultimate cause of the issues. He went back to his office with the battery serial number to check for production date. Im currently waiting on that info to come back but it wont be till monday. The binding is still occurring but not as bad as it was. Yes, the battery did have some to do with the binding but if it does get any worse well just go on to the next step in the process of elimination.

my W.A.G.; his battery is crapping out, and will not provide enough current to run.
Load test the battery (measure battery voltage 'at rest', then under hydraulic stall [lift to maximum , then read while holding the lift for 5 seconds]) if your battery looses more than 10% of it's at rest voltage while in hydraulic stall, you have found your problem.
Now rather than blame it on the service tech, we have to blame it on the operator, for not correctly maintaining the battery. (and that was about a 6 thousand dollar bit of failing to bother to properly maintain your battery)
This MAY be an early e50z, and it may have only 1 DC hydraulic motor and a load sensor and priority valve to provide power to both steering and lift functions, and it may have worn out the brushes in that 1 single motor. (is it getting much worse noticeably?)

well we are just trying to give you and idea of what to expect or look to be possibly wrong. I am not trying to give ammunition to attack the tech with by any means, usually if you approach a tech like that he will probably back off and may not want to give you the best service he could, most tech's don't like to be told how to do their job so i'm hoping you have a good approach in that matter.

we just give suggestions on the forum here to follow to help find the problems, most of the time we are on target and it helps quickly but sometimes it doesn't because some problems are not textbook type problems, or the descriptions we get can lead us down the wrong path, it happens :o/

And it all depends on the tech's experience and ability to diagnose the machine.

I'm sure if he has any experience in working on any machines like yours he should be able to find it.

But yes, you should expect to see him check the battery for starters, check amp draw and volt drop. If it is a lead acid battery he should check the water level and even specific gravity in each cell if he follows all procedures.
Once he rules out all those possibilities then he would move on to other possible problem areas related to the symptoms he sees.

But i just wouldn't stand over his shoulder if you know what i mean, give him a chance to prove himself. Then if he seems to be dragging it out and doesn't seem to be getting good results , I'd ask the service manager of his company to send someone else that has more experience because you are not satisfied with is work.
But i shouldn't really need to explain all this to you and it's really up to you to deal with that how you wish.
I'm just making suggestions and trying to direct you in a way that would help you know what it COULD be that is wrong.

I wish you luck on this and hopefully it will not take very long to fix.

Thanks for your help so far. The knowledge i gained here will definitely get a better understanding what the tech is talking about. And, in case this guy wants to just hokey pokey around my forklift i can point him in the right direction. I dont have time for him to be wasting my time.

well that brings a different light on the subject
your previous descriptions were leading me to believe it might be a timeout problem due to a circuit issue in one of those circuits i have been telling you to check because you were saying that you were loosing hydraulic function and steering both. It sounded like electrical.

But, Now if you are using the hydraulic and the steering at the same time and activate hydraulic and the steering goes then it could be something in the flow or steering priority valve.

OR.... if it is still electrical related it could be something with the battery, check the voltage on the battery when operating the truck hydraulics and see what the system voltage is dropping to.
check it at the steering motor as well and see what it is dropping to.
This could be something as simple as a battery problem.
A severe voltage drop in the battery can cause the symptoms your describing. The hydraulic motor pulls alot more amps and power than the drive normally does during normal operation so if its pulling the battery down too far or the battery is failing, has a bad cell then you will see something like this. The truck may drive ok, but when you turn on hydraulics it pulls it down so much it takes voltage away from the steering motor and it will fail to run or slow down to the point it is no longer efficient to carry its load.

I found out that when i use the lift controls and steering that the steering binds. So weve narrowed it down to the pump. Im having the technician come back in the morning to do some more investigating. Ill be there this time to show him how its acting up,so i dont hear no more bs excuses from him. Ill keep ya posted.

Ok to clarify more
If you loose seat switch then you would loose all functions including drive.

If you loose park brake circuit then it shuts down auxillary functions but drive should still operate.

But im not losing drive. Im losing steering and lift controls.i was told it could be a pump thats causing the issue. But ill check the safety switches. Thx for your help.

While mechanical binding in the linkage is a possibility i would say it would be unlikely due to the fact that you are loosing other electrically controlled functions like the hydraulics for instance, not to mention the related error codes.

That is why i am asking you to look at the seat switch input circuit and also the park brake circuit. On hysters and Yale lifts alike they both require both of these functions to be in a certain state for the truck to run normally, if they are not the trucks SRO (static return to off) system will time out and shut off the trucks systems thinking the truck is left sitting idle with no operator.
This is a safety feature built in to keep the machine from making any uncommanded movements in lift or drive systems.
This why you are loosing drive, hydraulic and steering ability but the trucks power is not actually turning off. Your display still shows the truck powered on when this happens but all functions are disabled.
At least from your comments thats what appears to be happening.

It dawned on me that the binding could be coming from the steering rod where it connects to the steering wheel. They usually put a universal joint in there. Ill look at it this week when i get time and post my findings here.

Ok do this
If it has a foot operated park brake pull the floor board plate.
Check the park brake switch.

If the park brake is operated by the seat bracket then you'll probably have to remove the battery and the metal plate covering the drive motor to access the switch.
You'll have to remove them anyway when checking the wiring harness.

The seat is just like ya said. Ive tested the switch for continuity, bypassed it so the seat switch wasnt even used, meaning i was able to drive it while standing next to it. Lol yeah yeah i know, dangerous. But it ruled out the seat safety switch. I guess my step is to start tracing the wiring for loose connections and possible shorts.

I know this sound repetative and picky but how did you test the switch?
With a vom connected in ohm scale 10k connect the leads, activate the seat switch slowly and release slowly and watch for any variances while doing so. Then get on the seat and check it while physically sitting on it. Move around leaning in different directions.
The reason i seem so picky about it is because most techs just push the cushion down and if it makes they thi k it is ok when it may have something else going on with it. Seat cushions wear, the mechanism inside the seat cushion can become malformed and cause the switch to open at the slightest wrong move or just be in a way that is not pushing the switch 100%. A bad spot in the switch movement.
Get where I'm going with this?

If you have xone all tbis and ruled it out the i would start checking connections and check wiring for breaks or chaffing.