Toyota 42-3FGC15:
STARTING PROBLEM

THE STARTING MOTOR DOESN'T SEEM TO ENGAGE THE FLYWHEEL WHEN THE IGNITION SWITCH IN TURNED. YOU CAN HERE A SMALL CLUNK BUT NO TURNING
  • Posted 3 Oct 2009 02:16
  • Discussion started by ray_s
  • Alberta, Canada
Showing items 1 - 15 of 18 results.
edit
  • Posted 17 Oct 2009 06:51
  • Modified 8 Jan 2010 13:42 by poster
  • Reply by rick_c
  • Texas, United States
technology: (no user serviceable parts inside)
WHERE WOULD I ATTACH THE SOLENIOD TO TRY AND SEE IF THAT MAKES A DIFFERENCE OR NOT.
  • Posted 17 Oct 2009 04:32
  • Reply by ray_s
  • Alberta, Canada
THIS LIFT HAS THE 2.0 LTR-LPG 5R ENGINE. I ALSO TRIED ROTATING THE ENGINE BY HAND SEVERAL TIMES AND TRIED STARTING IT BUT NO CHANGE WHAT SO EVER.
  • Posted 17 Oct 2009 04:29
  • Reply by ray_s
  • Alberta, Canada
Have you checked the ring gear, it may be worn.

Try turning the engine by hand and then see if it will start.
  • Posted 17 Oct 2009 04:00
  • Reply by techman
  • Surrey, United Kingdom
The voltage could be good but are loosing amps. What type of engine is in the lift. We have added an extra solenoid to help carry the amp draw on some diesels.
  • Posted 17 Oct 2009 03:58
  • Reply by garland_m
  • Virginia, United States
UNDER LOAD IT DIPS DOWN TO 11.03 AND SOMETIMES EVEN LOWER THAN THAT.
  • Posted 17 Oct 2009 03:04
  • Reply by ray_s
  • Alberta, Canada
WHAT IS IT SHOWING UNDER LOAD,

12.35 is low for a new battery without load. it should really be 13.2 Min.

But under load is the important issue.
  • Posted 17 Oct 2009 01:43
  • Reply by Normandy
  • Co. Cork, Ireland
The battery is a Brand New AC Delco and it shows 12.36 volts
  • Posted 17 Oct 2009 01:01
  • Reply by ray_s
  • Alberta, Canada
They are a good suppliers, you should not have problems with parts. Did you load test your Battery????or just try a NEW battery.
  • Posted 16 Oct 2009 22:28
  • Reply by Prentice
  • Ontario, Canada
I am getting all my parts from either RIGO LIFT TRUCKS or SMH CANADA
  • Posted 16 Oct 2009 01:15
  • Reply by ray_s
  • Alberta, Canada
Where are you getting your starters? Aftermarket or OEM Toyota - I have seen some of my customers supply new starters.........from the scap yard........same for batteries. Makes it hard to troubleshoot with used parts
  • Posted 15 Oct 2009 21:46
  • Modified 15 Oct 2009 21:49 by poster
  • Reply by Prentice
  • Ontario, Canada
You will need less than.01 voltage drop on the positive cables to the starter. You will need less than.1 volts on the negitive cables all the way to the engine frame. You also may have a voltage drop at the control wire with that age of a unit I would figure your going to find a reading of 1 volt or higher in that circut. if so use a remote starter to try and crank the engine. If that works i would install a bosh relay to activate the starter with the imput from the key switch.
  • Posted 15 Oct 2009 11:11
  • Reply by Bulldog965
  • Indiana, United States
Richard
The starter spins fine at the work bench. The motor rotates freely by the flywheel. The negative Ground from the battery goes to a common ground at the chassis at the base of the battery and to 2 other grounding spots-1 at the side of the radiator and the other at the thermostat housing temp. sensor. There is also a ground wire going from the common ground at the chassis to the bell housing of the transmission. I will try the jumper wire next to see if that makes a difference but I'm not too confident that it will. All the grounds have been removed and cleaned. These questions are not dumb if they help me find the problem are they so any question you throw at me , I will test them out. THANK-YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP SO FAR. I think we will solve this sooner or later. Once again THANK'S EDWARD T
  • Posted 4 Oct 2009 22:43
  • Reply by ray_s
  • Alberta, Canada
when you remove the starter and try it on the bench does it spin good? can you move the motor with a screwdriver prying on the flywheel?
when you say "The voltage at the starter is 12 Plus volts and when we crank- or try to crank the starter it drops to 11 Plus volts". where is your negative (ground) lead attached to? is there any difference if the lead is attached to the battery neg post or the engine block? where is the positive lead attached to? does it make any difference if the positive lead is attached to the battery positive post or the large connection at the starter?
if you take a jumper from battery positive to the smaller wire connection at the starter does it do the same?

when you say "All grounds are in perfect shape" how do you know? did you remove them, and clean them?
I am sorry if it sounds like I am asking very specific and very dumb questions, but I am pretty sure that what you need to find is where does the voltage drop that is failing to provide enough electric power to turn the starter
  • Posted 3 Oct 2009 23:50
  • Modified 3 Oct 2009 23:57 by poster
  • Reply by edward_t
  • South Carolina, United States
"it's not rocket surgery"
That was part of my problem- the new starter was warranteed but still had the problem same as the removed starter. The voltage at the starter is 12 Plus volts and when we crank- or try to crank the starter it drops to 11 Plus volts. All grounds are in perfect shape. This particular starter doesn't have a nose cone. I even tried a new Key Switch to see if that was causing my problem but was still doing the same thing. All new parts are from SMH and have not had any issues like this one before.
  • Posted 3 Oct 2009 19:53
  • Reply by ray_s
  • Alberta, Canada

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