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WHERE WOULD I ATTACH THE SOLENIOD TO TRY AND SEE IF THAT MAKES A DIFFERENCE OR NOT.

THIS LIFT HAS THE 2.0 LTR-LPG 5R ENGINE. I ALSO TRIED ROTATING THE ENGINE BY HAND SEVERAL TIMES AND TRIED STARTING IT BUT NO CHANGE WHAT SO EVER.

Have you checked the ring gear, it may be worn.

Try turning the engine by hand and then see if it will start.

The voltage could be good but are loosing amps. What type of engine is in the lift. We have added an extra solenoid to help carry the amp draw on some diesels.

UNDER LOAD IT DIPS DOWN TO 11.03 AND SOMETIMES EVEN LOWER THAN THAT.

WHAT IS IT SHOWING UNDER LOAD,

12.35 is low for a new battery without load. it should really be 13.2 Min.

But under load is the important issue.

The battery is a Brand New AC Delco and it shows 12.36 volts

They are a good suppliers, you should not have problems with parts. Did you load test your Battery????or just try a NEW battery.

I am getting all my parts from either RIGO LIFT TRUCKS or SMH CANADA

Where are you getting your starters? Aftermarket or OEM Toyota - I have seen some of my customers supply new starters.........from the scap yard........same for batteries. Makes it hard to troubleshoot with used parts

You will need less than.01 voltage drop on the positive cables to the starter. You will need less than.1 volts on the negitive cables all the way to the engine frame. You also may have a voltage drop at the control wire with that age of a unit I would figure your going to find a reading of 1 volt or higher in that circut. if so use a remote starter to try and crank the engine. If that works i would install a bosh relay to activate the starter with the imput from the key switch.

The starter spins fine at the work bench. The motor rotates freely by the flywheel. The negative Ground from the battery goes to a common ground at the chassis at the base of the battery and to 2 other grounding spots-1 at the side of the radiator and the other at the thermostat housing temp. sensor. There is also a ground wire going from the common ground at the chassis to the bell housing of the transmission. I will try the jumper wire next to see if that makes a difference but I'm not too confident that it will. All the grounds have been removed and cleaned. These questions are not dumb if they help me find the problem are they so any question you throw at me , I will test them out. THANK-YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP SO FAR. I think we will solve this sooner or later. Once again THANK'S EDWARD T

when you remove the starter and try it on the bench does it spin good? can you move the motor with a screwdriver prying on the flywheel?
when you say "The voltage at the starter is 12 Plus volts and when we crank- or try to crank the starter it drops to 11 Plus volts". where is your negative (ground) lead attached to? is there any difference if the lead is attached to the battery neg post or the engine block? where is the positive lead attached to? does it make any difference if the positive lead is attached to the battery positive post or the large connection at the starter?
if you take a jumper from battery positive to the smaller wire connection at the starter does it do the same?

when you say "All grounds are in perfect shape" how do you know? did you remove them, and clean them?
I am sorry if it sounds like I am asking very specific and very dumb questions, but I am pretty sure that what you need to find is where does the voltage drop that is failing to provide enough electric power to turn the starter

That was part of my problem- the new starter was warranteed but still had the problem same as the removed starter. The voltage at the starter is 12 Plus volts and when we crank- or try to crank the starter it drops to 11 Plus volts. All grounds are in perfect shape. This particular starter doesn't have a nose cone. I even tried a new Key Switch to see if that was causing my problem but was still doing the same thing. All new parts are from SMH and have not had any issues like this one before.