You may still have an issue with the LF steer cylinder.

It may look like the RF is causing the issue because the steering prox sensors that the truck is using for steering alignment during mode change are located only on the LF steer wheel assembly. Due to this reason the truck doesnt know where the RF is and will base alignment off of just the left.

If you had an owners manual with the hydraulic schematic you would notice that the hydraulic line from the front of the RF steer cylinder is connected to the back of the LF steer cylinder.

When the steer cylinders are in proper working order hydraulic fluid is locked between the front of the RF steer cylinder and the back of fhe LF cylinder. This is called syncronization oil and keeps both steer cylinders aligned with one another.

If either LF or RF steer cylinders are bypassing internally this would allow the amount of locked oil or synchronization oil to change causing a front wheel alignment issue.

Before replacing next time you can do a quick test that will usually determine which cylinder is causing your issue.

1. Reset and Purge Procedure

Run the truck, select side mode and start the reset by fully extending the steer cylinders.

Once fully extended continue steering against the relief pressure (steering lock) for at least one full turn of the steering wheel.

Then fully retract the steer cylinders, once again steering at least one full turn against the pressure relief or lock.

Test Procedure

Select forward mode, let the truck finish its mode change and then select side mode left or right, once again allowing the truck to complete its mode change before shutting off the engine.

With the front steer wheels in side mode (crab mode) remove the front hydraulic line (rod side) from the RF (master) steer cylinder, cap the cylinder port and plug the line.

Mark both the LF and RF chrome rods with somthing that wont cause damage.

Start the engine, select side mode and turn the steering wheel at least two full turns clockwise and then at least two full turns counter-clockwise.

Shut off the engine and check your marks on both steer cylinders. If either steer cylinder has extended this would indicate an internal bypass.

(As a tip I recommend using a tape measure and marking the chrome approx 1 inch away from the cylinder gland nut, this will make it easier to check how much the cylinder has extended if measured after the test and compared.)

Also as a note even a good steer cylinder will move slightly due to air being introduced into the system when capping and plugging the line but will be minimal.

If the bypass isnt noticable with 2 full turns clockwise and counter-clockwise you may have to do more.