No this is the 2008 model with the camshaft position sensor distributor. I have replaced all the old spark plug wires with brand new ones also. I have spark at initial crank and then it's gone. With both new and old plug wires.

Mazda engine with coil pack ? Check wires to coil pack they break with constant vibration. Could be hanging by a thread.

There is nothing in the manual for testing condenser. Usually you use a muti meter with a condenser setting. You can test for resistance, not on a metal table as this will affect the results. Read probe with phase and black on ground. Hold leads in position for about 20 seconds. If resistance stay the same should be good. There are other test that can be performed, ie bleed test. Look online. Good Luck

Thank you for all your help, I really appreciate it. Do you know if there is a way to test the condenser?

Nathan,

I believe the condenser will be the problem. After cranking for a second or two, the voltage is going to frame through the condenser. The only other component that can cause this problem would be the cam sensor. Also, compression difference between 1 and others is way too high. The condenser is the lowest cost to try. Good Luck.

Unfortunately this is the only lift, Iv tried finding somewhere to give me schematic of how to test some of the sensors but can't find anywhere online that has them besides ordering a book. I'd prefer to test things out vs just throw parts at it. The compression wasn't great but was good enough that it would run if it had spark. Cylinder 1 was 165 cylinder 2,3 and 4 were 100. Was going to do leak down test next but seeing the spark is cutting out after 1 or 2 revolutions figured it was a waste of time till I found out what was causing the spark to cut out.

Nathan,

If the engine is cranking the ignition is working correctly. It is a magnetic switch internal to the dash display. Do you have other lifts that are of the same type with the same engine? Try switching the condenser and see if that helps. You said you checked the timing and compression, what were the compression readings? Thanks.

Do you by chance know how to test if the ignition switch on these are bad? I have never saw an ignition switch like this before. It appears as though it functions off of a magnet vs a typical ignition with wires.

Nathan,

Looking in the parts breakdown, there is a condenser that mounts just under the cam shaft position sensor, looks like a distributor without the cap. It is a small plastic box with a single screw mount made to it along with a short harness and connector. Should this fail, you can loose spark. Part number is 580078993. Good Luck.

I tried switching the relays and still have same situation, when I initially start cranking it has spark then after 1 or 2 revolutions it stops. I do not have software to plug into the machine unfortunately.
Serial number: B875b17083f
Model: Glp060vxevre091

Thank you for your response

Nathan,

Take the ignition one relay at the fuse box and switch it with the fuel run relay and see if the plugs continue to spark. If you have software to connect to the engine, check the crankshaft position sensor to make sure it is reading. Depending on the engine on what else you need to check. Serial number would help. Good Luck.