Thanks again, guys (and/or gals), you've all been a lot of help.

I have a GE handset coming in Monday and will update ya'll once I've plugged into the Traction Controller and seen what there is to see.

Hope everyone has a great Friday and weekend!

hlmickey,

i'm not 100% sure on how the ETACC program interacts with the dash on the lifts now but in the past thier old version of access with the GE controllers , IF you used the dash access you had to connect through the dash program first, then it would launch the diagnostic application. The process would first establish communications with the controller, once verified then the program would run. If you did it incorrect the first time it would make you start over from the beginning and relaunch the dash program.
ETACC may be totally different but i dont know for sure.

I would also confirm totally isolated that the fuses were OK, not trying to check them while still in the truck.
I think I would connect up to the controller with a GE handset direct to the traction controller, and set ALL the settings to the factory specifications for this truck and motors sizes, if possible. I would also check those numbers that you expect from voltages at the pot. (not saying they are wrong, I haven't confirmed what they should be, but 8ish is usually closer than 10ish in these).

UPDATE:

I was able to get our version of ETACC working and connected to the truck.

Two issues I found right off the bat:

1) I am connected to the display and the VCM but unable to connect to the Traction Motor Controller. Anyone know why?

2) I am getting 0 volts from the Accel Pot (I know I should be getting 10-11ish when pedal is not depressed.

All help is appreciated!

Thanks for the reply, Newspanner.

I am unable to access the controller settings; the version of the Hyster ETACC software I have doesn't seem to work and, not being a Hyster dealer, we don't have access to the updates we need to get the ETACC software working.

Anyone other ideas?

Hi,
It may be worth checking the battery settings in the controller as these can be set up for 36 or 48 volts

Thanks for the reply, swoop.

The battery is a brand new 36v that we have in our inventory; matches the truck specs.

The PTC is not polarity sensitive.

I have never had a problem with the PTC getting hot.

Connections are clean and tight.

Contactor does not close at all.

OK...

- you've replaced the PTC.
- cleaned the contact tips.
- have a new battery (assuming one just like what was in it, NOT a battery pack).
- verified there are not other devices connected to the load side going to the controller.

now thinking outside the box...
- is the PTC polarity sensitive?
- is it still getting hot?
- are all connections in the circuit tight and free of corrosion?
- are the contact tips actually closing? (try a new contactor)?
- maybe line contactor is just closing too slow (try a new contactor)?
- check the negative side of the circuit for bad connections or corrosion

the ultimate problem may be in the controller itself not detecting the voltage correctly. (I'm reaching here... just a radical thought) ;o) I would only consider this only after verifying all connections and voltages, resistances have been checked at all connection points around the complete circuit.

one thing i do know about these new AC systems
they are extremely sensitive to voltages so even an incorrect battery can cause problems like this, the battery has to be the exact type, size , voltage and amp rating designed for the truck, battery packs will not work correctly.
one other thing I've ran across alot is even though the line contactor appears to be working it could be slow or not closing completely, simply replacing the contactor assembly remedied the problem.

just some thoughts that come to mind, i'm sure there are some i haven't thought of someone else may be able to assist with also.