hi matthew,
well the orientation of the #1 plug is generally at the 9'oclock position but as long as it is wired in the correct firing order it should run ok. The main reason for the position is if you have to adjust timing that position is the best angle for it plus i believe there is a mark on the body of the distributor and lines up with a mark on the block where it mounts (i seem to remember reading that in the service literature somewhere).

As for the vac line location routing... i'll see if i can find something on that. You can send me an email (in my signature) and i'll get that to you. I'm pretty sure you have 3 lines, one to the LP filter lockoff, a second one that connects to the governor and the 3rd one to the vac advance on the distributor. But to be sure let me take another look and i'll get that page to you.

That line to the valve cover is just a pcv line, it would probably work the same as connecting straight to the base of the mixer or straight into the intake.

And another note about that timing light, you can use that and double check the timing but if the engine starts and runs good and just has no power when accelerating i tend to think it may be some sort of fuel or air issue. But if you want to just do the timing light then sure, go ahead and double check that.

Had a look today. My timing light is dead so waiting on amazon to sort me that. I noticed though the no1 lead on the distributor isnt at 9 o clock or facing the front of the engine. This ones at 12. Would this make a difference? Obviously its firing 1342 from this point.

Also would you have any info on where exactly every vaccum line etc goes on the intake manifold and carb unit and the one for vaccum advance. When she first arrived the small orange vac line was connected to the governer.

What is meant to be connected to the governer. As i put the only spare line i could find which was a tee off from the rocker breather which goes to the air box

in the service book it describes setting the cam pulley as such:
when installing the cam make sure the dowel pin is at the top of the camshaft.
Then it says to make sure the cam pulley letter "A" is aligned with the timing mark on the front housing. (there should be a knotch or pointer indicator made into the housing of the timing cover housing after you have everything installed and it should align with that ).
Now when installing the crank gear or aligning the crank timing mark the keyway will be at the 12 0'clock position which should allow the timing mark on the gear to align with the indicator indention on the tapered ring behind it. (i think those align anyway but the gear timing mark should align with a pointer casted into the timing housing cover).

Now when threading the timing belt try to have tension on all pulleys except for the tensioner side, then when setting the tensioner it says once you have the belt on to rotate the engine 2 rotations and then recheck the timing marks, if correct then tighten down the tensioner bolt once all is aligned and tension is set.

Now if you want to set or check the timing with a timing light there should be a mark on the crank pulley (not gear), it may be a small tick mark or knotch that will align with the timing scale on the timing cover. (you may have to clean off the edge of the pulley, find the mark and maybe take some white paint marker and re-mark it). In some of the older ones there will be a white mark and possibly a red mark, the white mark is setting TDC only. The red mark i have no information on but i'll assume it has something to do with advance timing. (edit: that red mark has to do with the 8deg timing advance).

Now for the distributor orientation:
the only thing it mentions on the positioning is to make a note of the position when removing but it goes on to say to make sure the engine is on TDC, the #1 piston up on TDC, and making sure the marks on the distributor housing, distributor gear and engine are aligned. I'm not satisified about this description but from my own experience the orientation of the rotor should be pointing towards the #1 journal on the distributor cap which should be at the 9 o'clock position or the front of the engine. It should be apparent when you install the distributor and aligning the rotor/gear related to the position on the caps #1 plug).


Hope this helps

Timing belt is correct

But would anyone have any info on the marker on the crank pulley to set ignition timing with a light.

rebuild engine? check timing belt are correct

It was bought a a non runner , we basically just took a stab on it.

On the flat bar the fact it's flat on power it actually goes quite well. Trans is responsive and the inching is perfect.

Yes ill look into the timing light

I read all post on trying to help one question was this problem there before the engine was rebuilt or was this the reason for the rebuild and if it has hi speed in neutral is it possible that the toque converter in trans is bad also sometimes you still could be off one tooth when you put dist in engine might start good check with timing light see if you can get on scale on crank

Yea ill check it out but im not convinced it is that. Its permanently down on power.

Engine been rebuild. Cylinders rebored and a complete new cylinder head fitted as old one was cracked.

Really not sure what else to check

timing advance on distributor?
yeah it may have some affect on it.
either a vac leak or just not advancing properly might cause it to not accelerate fast enough. Generally it would just stumble a bit though during accel and then pick up, but yeah, check the vac holding on the diagphragm. Make sure the movable plate inside the distributor is moving when it is activated.

Yes have tried both those but no difference. Tried without airfilter too. Have just double checked timing marks on belt but theyre spot on. Have also tried turning the distributor left to right, turn it anti clockwise and it speeds up. Turn the distributor clockwise and it slows down and then really struggled to rev up. I have been told to check the timing advance diaphragm on the distributor to make sure its working. Would this effect that enough?

ok it sounds like all that should be good then.
the screw on the mixer will not change the overall performance much, it mostly deals with the idle, once you accelerate past a certain point that part doesn't have much effect. If memory serves me correctly underneath where the fuel inlet is there is a coarse adjustment for fuel intake, sometimes that can make a difference but generally those are preset and do not need adjustment, but that one is the one that can make a difference in acceleration and overall performance.
What's it do when you remove the air filter? any change? (just curious)
Also since you said this engine is rebuilt? did you rebuild it? or is it pre-built and you just swapped it out? are you sure the timing marks set correctly? i would double check that.

New lpg filter unit and a new impco cobra vaporiser. Also a new diaphragm in the mixer. Ive tried turning the lean and ruch screw on the mixer but it doesnt react much beyond half way when turned to rich

it sounds like low fuel delivery.
did you replace the vaporizer with an oem one?
pull the supply hose from the mixer and turn on the system and see how much comes out, you should hear it rush out fairly well. it also could be a bad mixer diaphragm. i'd pull the top of the mixer and make sure it's not torn and the bullet shutoff button is clean and still intact. make sure the vacumm lines are in good shape.

It revs up and will reach full revs. Just slow and has no power

does it rev up at all? or does it stall out when you press the accelerator? or just not accelerate and mostly idle?