anyone knows how this problem was solved. i have the same issue
thanks

I know i tagged this into some one Else's posting.i'll start a new post please follow. CROWN 3020-30 FWD REV.

and the clear plastic relay powers the steering pump. problems still not solved A1? contactor won't always engage and when it does the fwd/rev conactors don't even draw in /ie engage. bad year to stop drinking.

and before you test anything, it is important to be sure you don't have ANY shorts to the frame on ANY of the power cables. as well as have a known good battery.

2 wires to black box are filter for switch to keep voltage spikes down. clear plastic relay is for the entry bar. alarm beside relay alarms when entry bar is down and dead man is pressed

mech
when testing with the handyman if you run a leak test and that red light comes on at all replace the rec... even a slight blip can mean a leak enough to cause a fault. Remember these systems are pulsing several thousand times a second so it measures time in milliseconds which very easily can translate into too much time for a rec to be on or off when its not supposed to be causing a fault.
Now as a precaution when replacing the #5 rec i would always replace it with the same as the #2 rec because of the amp rating being higher. The #5 rec amp rate is low because it's only function is to turn off the pulse cycle once the cap circuit is charged and ready to fire the #1 rec. So replacing it with a higher rated rec usually solves any future potential issues with that component which i have seen happen in the past.

As for that black box on the parking brake switch circuit that sounds like a relay that may shut off the drive when the brake is applied to keep the truck from driving through the brake, and then again it may just be an alarm relay to tell you when to set the brake if you get off the seat.

As for the plastic contactor under the floor plate?
Not sure what that is, i do not have a manual for this unit so i'd be guessing... but my best guess might have something to do with power steering? just a guess though :o/ without a service manual or parts breakdown i have no idea what that is for honestly.

on the brake switch 2 wires go to the truck. 2 wires go to a little black box beside the brake switch what is its function. also there is a clear plastic like contactor on the floor behind the fuse panel. what is this used for?

your voltages on pins 5 and 6 are probably your issue. they are the inputs to the card from forward and reverse switches. You should have battery volts to 5 when forward is selected and on 6 when reverse is selected you should also have 0 volts on the other input 5 or 6 when the other is selected Check the input to them from the brake switch. if the voltage to the switches fall off when you try to travel then its the brake switch or deadman(right foot pedal) switch.

Swoop223 and Edward T. AND chevotaman. NEED HELP PLEASE. I have crown RC3020-30 / 1A287566. CARD number IC3645LXCD1 EV100. Problem FWD/REV contactors won't engage. TB1=3.97V, AT REST W/O THROTTLE.002 SO NOT SPEED POT. TB-2 unhooked 37v on wire and 37v on screw head. TB-3 BV. TB-4=BV. TB-5=FWD W/O THROTTLE 37-30-22-19V. JUMPS AROUND. SAME ON TB-6=REV. HAND SET SHOWED 47 CODE=2 REC DID NOT TURN ON CORRECTLY. I used the handy man for rec's1-2-5. all test ok sort of 2 and 5 the red light stayed on 10 sec's while i was holding down on leakage test. re tested and blinked on then off quickly. now hand held shows code 70= regen current sensor input missing? what is this (yellow wire).where is the yellow wire? also this unit has a motion alarm fwd/rev sounds a audible alarm backup alarm and it works i also checked brake switch. and i'm here switch. everything on this truck works except fwd and rev. i'm at a loss can ya'll please HELP.

...and Im sure you have inspected on and around all your rec's / spder blocks etc for debris? I have had things like paperclips, foil gum wrappers etc get down in and short accross terms and create really stange head scratchers in the past... small paperclips really camo in down inside there!

maybe one of the wires in the plug not making good connection? they sell kits to replace to pins in the plugs and the whole plug itself...

have you checked the inputs from the directional switch?
maybe you have a switch that is slow/sticking causing the delay.
If when having the handset connected you see it telling you that both contactors are showing a signal then my first thought would be to check the directional switch circuit and make sure one switch is not sticking.

The only other thing i can think of would be the logic is defective.

just some thoughts to ponder since nothing else seems to point you toward any conclusion :o)

This is not a binding problem or contactor problem
It is electrical at JCB plug on control card EV100 wires 5901-5902
control ground for that side of contactor

If I do connect hand set all it tells me both forard and reverse pulled in at same time
thats because forward is not opening fast enough before the other contactor pulls in

if the contactor is moving slowly even when you disconnect the control wire/lead manually, you have a mechanical bind in the contactor. loosen all the screws that hold the contactor together and see if you can 'reseat' the assembly to sit correctly. if it still does it, disassemble the contactor assembly and inspect the plastic and bakalite pieces, as well as the armature, and maybe swap the moving tips from one side to the other.

Do you have a GE LX handset to plug into your control card? See if it will throw you a [real time] fault code in diag mode when you let off the dir/trav cont and contact is still in?

So if I swap control wires on contactors from forward to reverse left to right side
slow open goes to reverse ?

So got back to working on this unit today.Installed suppressors on both forward contactors ,Did not change anything ,
even if I take the motor control wires off the top of contactors still does the slow open any more ideas?

Up Date
Battery Pos, too truck Neg is good 2.6 M ohms
Have not gotten suppressors yet

Like stated above I'd be looking at isolation from the frame and clean power 1st. 50K+ ohms Batt+ & Batt - to frame (batt disconnected of course)... Have any aftermarked devices been added? ie shockwatch or g-force crash sensor? computer? etc...? If so unhook all non stock items and re-test.

Yes complete new Contactors,

Yes when you touch wires at forward M/S.jump M/S. still has problem
It is only in forward direction, reverse drops out no problems.
I have connected the old contactor with just the coil wires they have the same slow drop out also ?
I have ordered a supressor to try. will advise