Mitsubishi FBC20 AFB2 series. Machine coding 49, replaced #2, #5, all 4 snubbers and cap because it burnt and dripped oil on the shunt and produced corrosion on the heat sink. Removed the heat assembly and cleaned the corrosion also replaced the shunt and the 2 terminal ends on the wire below the shunt. The truck runs fine in forward but hesitates and codes 47 or 49 most of the time in reverse especially on an incline. Pot works the same direction for forward and reverse, only thing I can think of is a bad (large) rec on the heat sink or bad board, anyone have any thoughts? Thank you
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Good point, I'll inspect the drive motor its easy enough, thank you again.
when i said to check directional contactors i was not referring to the directional switch, if fwd/rev contactors do pull in when selected and no errors occur then the control circuit to the fwd/rev contactor coils is more than likely ok.
I was referring to checking the fwd/rev contactor assy, check the tips, make sure they are not pitted or burned badly and are making good contact in open and closed positions, and check the movable parts for wear, make sure the springs are good and not compressed.
edit: one other thing to check is the drive motors, while they are running listen to them, if you hear any clicking noise chances are the commontator bars are raised and this can cause the brushes to jump off the surface and break contact while driving, this can trigger these codes as well.
Its probably a wire issue, thanks for the help
motor is good , I'll check the switch, thank you.
jesusjohn,
normally yes, it would show up in either direction.
That is why i had the other possible things to check, directional contactors being the most likely suspect imo and the plug connections being the other.
Have you checked your drive motor brushes and directional contactor?
Thank you swoop, but if if the #1 rec is a problem wouldn't it code in both forward and reverse not just reverse?
a couple of other things to check
- leak test on #1REC (the big block REC)
- check harness connections on plug at control card (clean and adjust pins for a more positive fit)
- fwd/rev contactor tips (make sure they are not burned or worn out)
The leak test: this is a hi voltage burst test to check for back bleed through the REC which should not happen. It is best performed using a 'handyman' tester. It can be done using the old school method with a vom but imo is not as reliable.
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