Yea, this watering system doesn't have the blinky like some of my other lifts, but it has an indicator at each cell which is nice. The downfall for me though is I have a new employee that has been doing some of these, so I for sure can't rule out without looking myself. Thanks again and I will keep you posted once I learn something, hopefully.

My pleasure. Sometimes what i see with battery watering systems is people stop filling once the green light comes on. That only means about 1 cell is full. The battery watering system will stop itself once all the cells are full and will never overfill if installed properly. It gives the impression that the battery is fully watered when the green blinky comes on when in reality it isn't, it stil, has about 16 more cells to fill. Best of luck!

I have a battery watering system installed but I'm still going to check the water again in case one or multiple switches become stuck. I'm also going to recheck each cell while I have it pulled out. Then I will swap out batteries if those tests seem ok still just to verify.

I really appreciate all of the help you have given me. I will let you know what I learn with the battery and see if it fixes my issue or if I am back to square one lol.

Yeah with the battery voltage less than 36v that would explain the error that is appearing. If the battery needs water this could also explain why it is not holding a charge. If the battery hasn't been watered in a long time and is dry it drastically impacts the performance. I'd recommend trying to swap batteries to see if that will solve the issue.

Yes when I first turn on the truck, both contactors close and if I just go in creep speed, it won't error out but if I lift the forks or go very fast they both drop out. Both contactors are new also because I thought that was my problem originally.

Right at the battery plug, I am reading 35.54V so maybe it still is a battery issue and I just didn't detect it from a cell. I don't have a spare battery but I do have several crowns running around the company I can do a swap and see if that cures it.

No that's exactly correct. Has the contactor been able to close before? This error could be appearing because the P contactor isn't closing or there is a voltage drop across the contactor. This can happen if the tips are burnt or worn. With the battery at 35v that may be the issue, the battery should be atleast 36v for the truck to function.

Otherwise I recommend starting to swap components in the circuit. If you can get another battery, fuses, etc. that would be good to fully rule out what is good/bad.

Correct me if I misunderstood what you meant, but I'll explain the tests I just did. I checked continuity from the positive at access 2 to the other end of the cable that is at the top of the P contactor and it tested at 1.4 ohms, with the contactors not closed I don't get a reading any farther than that. Then I powered on the truck with the error displayed, and I have 35 volts at the battery positive all the way to the contactors but then just 5 volts at access 2 but obviously with the error, the contactors aren't closed. Am I missing anything by what you was meaning?

Have you checked continuity from battery positive to access2 battery positive terminal? Sometimes if there is high continuity in that cable it can throw the code. It sounds like a cable issue if the battery is testing good and the fuses are also good. With the truck operating for a short amount of time before it codes it means you can rule out the access 2 moduele being bad as it does operate. My guess with the battery loosing charge so fast, it might be shorting out to something.

Ok, I checked these two fuses after removing them from the truck and they are showing good continuity. I also checked all wiring for tightness and I'm not finding anything loose either. I'm definitely at a loss.

Fuse 1 (FU1) is located on the fuse panel and is above fuse 2 (FU2). FU1 protects the traction control module (access 2). FU2 protects the hydraulic control module (access 3). These are both CNN400 fuses and not tube fuses.

Thank you for your reply. I have checked cell to cell and I received the same voltage across the whole battery which is making me think I have another issue.

Do you happen to know which fuse you are referring to? As in the number? Without looking at the truck currently I can't recall the numbers but I know there are two fuses, (one for each contactor up top in the console), and then three tube fuses in the distribution panel in the console area. I feel like I have checked these fuses, but I will verify those. I haven't found any others yet. This truck is still fairly new to me so i'm still learning on it.

Event code 201 means the access 2 is receiving voltage that is too high or to low. Sometimes a fuse can go bad without blowing. Check resistance on the fuse attached or before the access 2 module.

To check if a battery is bad, measure the battery voltage idle, then put a load on the battery and measure that voltage. If it drops below the rated battery voltage (ex. 36v), the battery might be bad.
To check if a battery is bad you can also measure voltage across each cell individually. If there is a bad cell it will have a drastically different voltage compared to other cells under load. Normally I see voltages like 2.10v, 2.11v, 2.10v, etc. Then one random cell goes down to 1.86v. That is the bad cell. That cell sucks power out of the other cells to try and get back to 2.10v resulting in the incorrect voltage being sent to the truck.