Raymond 102T-F45L:
code E 106

Anybody ever have a code E106. Contractor has been replaced and all cables have been inspected and repaired. Its a hard code no lift or drive.

Any advice......
  • Posted 10 Dec 2016 06:20
  • Discussion started by delga76
  • Florida, United States
Showing items 1 - 15 of 15 results.
Ok took resistor out and installed a new brake coil. Unit runs like it was bran new.
For all who have code E106 do like Mr. STAM said. Check the resistance on the brake coil. E106 has been solved.
  • Posted 20 Feb 2017 12:39
  • Reply by mpifer
  • Florida, United States
No problem sir.
  • Posted 14 Feb 2017 09:01
  • Reply by stam
  • Ontario, Canada
STAM YOU ARE THE MAN. IT WORKED IT WAS THE BRAKE COIL AFTER ALL.

I placed a 36 ohm resistor on the terminal block where the coil went. Pressed the forward knowb and it runs like a champ. I been beating my head with this unit and code 106 for a couple of weeks. Never would have fixed it or thought about the brake coil. Wow I owe you big time.

Thanks again my problem with THIS UNIT IS FIXED because of your help and knowledge sharing. I would also like to thank all others that contributed to help me understand and gain better knowledge in troubleshooting this unit.

Now all I have to do is order a new bbrake coil.
  • Posted 14 Feb 2017 00:43
  • Reply by mpifer
  • Florida, United States
All right I will give it a try. Lets say that I take a 35 ohm resistor or a adjustable potentiometer and adjust it to 35 ohms. And place it on the block were the brake coil goes. Will this work as for a load that the amp is looking for. I will give it a try and let ya know. Never would I have thought it would have been the brake coil. I"ll let ya know what happens.
  • Posted 13 Feb 2017 23:56
  • Reply by mpifer
  • Florida, United States
your brake coil is showing no resistance.
your brake coil is bad.
that's the only output on the controller that isn't working.
  • Posted 13 Feb 2017 04:20
  • Modified 13 Feb 2017 04:22 by poster
  • Reply by stam
  • Ontario, Canada
Took wires off of block and ohmed out coil on brake. I am only getting.3 ohms. No were near 38 you are suggesting. Tried running without it and received a new code for brake. I did not think it was the fuse holder but I disconnected them. Made a straight contact and still received the 106 code. Ok today readings for feild read.9ohms armature reading.06 today on a cool 70 degrees. I know its good for I tested it on a growler. 2 weeks ago.

If i have good lift that means k10 is good and contactor is working for that is what gives b+ to the unit. Horm and lift works so that should rule out fuse holder's also. All is energized when i move hand controller **** to forward position you cab hear the k10 contact open (de energize) so i my opinion the traction amp controller is telling it to shut off. I tested wire with a digital ohm meter. I have a small transformer i have hooked up one side to metal plate and other side i can hook to my open wire to test to see if the spark will jump to metal plate. This way i get a good amount of amperage though the wire. I took off both feild wires and battery wires and test each one with this process. All 4 tested good. Nice blue arc could been seen.

Going to take handle off again re ohm. Wire shows no sign of chaffing any were but will start pulling hard on wire to double check.

I do thank everyone for their assistance. Together we are smarter than any one individual.
  • Posted 13 Feb 2017 03:49
  • Reply by mpifer
  • Florida, United States
k10 is the main contactor
y1 is the brake coil, the wiring for it is attached to the same spot as the motor cables behind the drive motor. 38ohms give or take is what you want to see. I truly believe this is your issue, you may want to disconnect it electrically and see what happens, I can't recall if it will run without it...
what resistance value is your drive motor fields?
you have lift and horn functioning, correct? if so that rules out many components like the fuse holders.
a digital output is just something the controller turns on/off such as the lowering valve, the lift solenoid or the brake coil.
  • Posted 11 Feb 2017 11:04
  • Reply by stam
  • Ontario, Canada
How did you check the cables to motor? One single strand will give continuity. Pull on hard, if ok check for chafing by removing handle. Notorious for wires chafing under handle bottom. Contactor must be squeeky clean. Bypass the fuses to test, then can ohm out ok but carry no current. That's all it takes to to upset of of these disposable electric hand carts. People buy these for 3 grand and spend 5 fixing them!
  • Posted 11 Feb 2017 10:37
  • Reply by EasiTek
  • Ontario, Canada
Thats what I thought. Went to raymond and bought a new amp. Big bucks for am amp. Placed it in and still have same code with new amp. I just can not figure it out. Ohmed k10 and have 45 ohms. Ohmed field windings last thing book says it digital output. I do not know how to do this and most likely have to have a computer. Been checking other sites and they say to check fuse holders for cracks.. Do you know anyway to increase output in the traction amp?

Again thank you for trying to help me out with this problem. Your advice is deeply appreciated.
  • Posted 11 Feb 2017 01:54
  • Reply by mpifer
  • Florida, United States
if everything else seems to be good, could be a bad traction amp itself.
  • Posted 8 Feb 2017 13:44
  • Reply by ynot
  • California, United States
Only one battery pack. Placed volt meter at connection it reading 25.8 vdc. Turned it all on waited, lift up down good, horn good moved arm down halfway heard contact engage. Turned **** to go forward volts reading read 25.7. Batteries only 5 months old. Ill place it back on charger just to double check.

Ohmed out k10 and it is reading 47 ohms dont think this would cause a high current draw. This unit starting to **** me off and might just end up as a fishing reef. Agh.

Thanks stam for the reply.
  • Posted 8 Feb 2017 03:24
  • Modified 8 Feb 2017 06:26 by poster
  • Reply by mpifer
  • Florida, United States
Try a different battery pack if possible.

This system is *** and low voltage will make it code stuff not even related to what's wrong.
Had a shorted brake coil do this before.
  • Posted 7 Feb 2017 23:51
  • Modified 7 Feb 2017 23:52 by poster
  • Reply by stam
  • Ontario, Canada
Thanks, housing is good purchased a new amp. Ohmed out wires to etac back to connector. All good no shorts.angle switches wire ohmed all good no shorts. Wires to feild winding good, to main contact good to k10 replay good. When moving / rotating **** to good forward or back main relay de energizes. Dont understand whats causing this e106 code.
  • Posted 7 Feb 2017 23:01
  • Reply by mpifer
  • Florida, United States
try checking pins on traction amp harness connector, also make sure the connector housing clip is no broken.
  • Posted 7 Feb 2017 18:50
  • Reply by ynot
  • California, United States
I have the same code. I have horn and lift no movement. Had not received any help on tbis site so it must be hard to fix. Code says over current to windings, , digital output. Coil,. I checked the winings, armature, k10 coil, main contact and even changed out the controller. Still get the same code. I checked the wire from the handle down. All checked good. Is your controller blinking a code? 3 flashes and then 1 flash. Mine doing it when moving speed handle forward
.

If you find something out please lett me know. Called Raymond corp but no belp.
They did offer to sell me a maintenance contract and send out a tech. Though. Ill pass on anything i find and hope hou will dothe same good luck.
  • Posted 7 Feb 2017 12:29
  • Reply by mpifer
  • Florida, United States

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