This isn't like the bigger model Clarks that have a steerbox and the valve is bolted right to the steer cylinder. It uses the same cylinder but without a valve. Instead of a steering gear box it has a modern type Orbitrol valve that's connected to the steering wheel. The Orbitrol just sends pressure down to the cylinder via hoses.

Anyway, I got a rebuilt cylinder from Hader. They cut the welded cylinders apart and rebuild, then weld it back together.

I would think the piston seal is like a steel piston ring like in a engine.

Put it in today and all is well. I've never seen one of these Clark type cylinders have a problem like this before (drifting and wheels not reacting to turning the steering wheel).

I proved it was in the cylinder by removing one of the hoses and plugging it. Then capped off the cylinder fitting. Started it up and tried to turn the steering wheel and I couldn't.

I think that rick_c s dead-on.
If the steering is 'drifting around' it's likley mechanical. It's a straight mechanical steerbox, so the play could also be in there.

If, by 'drifting around', you mean that the steering turns itself, then the problem is in the shuttle valve area. There are 2 springs that keep the valve centered. The valve is moved via the attacment to the drag-link. If a spring breaks, it all loosens up, and the steering goes wonky.

would that be the same wayne that likes rye and lives next to the potatoes

I am a clark dealer and we a lot of vendors that sell aftermarket and used parts you can find aged parts that other dealers have growing dust on there parts shelves. theyare new for alot less than aftermarket
you can call my Parts pro Dave stringer and will be glad to help.

we may have something here and can drop ship to your location
The Number is 1-509-547-7413
Good luck

You could talk to Keith at Aztec Hydraulics - 905-670-8080 - I've used Aztec for years to rebuild hydraulic cylinders of all types, including the welded ones, and been very happy with the results. Their website is:

http://www.aztechydraulics.com/

That assumes that the problem is the cylinder - I'd recommend getting a technician to check the machine before you do anything.

you can buy after market cylinder assemblies cheaper than you can get that one cut open and repacked. you can get it with or without the valve on the side of the unit. you should check really closely to see if this isn't a problem with the bell crank (center section) on the steer axle. also the mechanical connection at the valve where the drag link is connected can have play causing drift and hard steering. be warned you need to have hose plugs readily available or you will have one **** of a mess