There is 2 micro switches on the carb.
One of them is stuck
There is 2 micro switches on the carb.
One of them is stuck
Press and hold (3&4) then 1 then 2 then hold (1&2) for 10 seconds....check your matching on acceleration
What type of display is on your truck...any buttons?
The Vac Hoses are critical for the fuel/air system to work correctly. There are mechanical goes that won't operate correctly without that pressure. take some tube and connect the lines. you also want to make sure the potentiometer connector is tight and not caked with dirt and debris around the sub-assy. take an air chuck and clean it.
I would also ask why, in the first place, was it that you replaced the accelerator pedal position sensor. What symptoms, on whose advice?
Considering that the accelerator pedal position sensor was just changed, my first guess would be that it was not correctly adjusted to have the correct electronic values for maximum and or minimum travel, and when the control module sees an "out of range" signal, it [correctly] disables the throttle.
well that looks like a tier 1 model truck to me
i could be wrong though
and being toyota the diagnostic plug might not be where most of the ones i've seen on the hysters, cat's and mitsu's are.
They all generally follow the same standard though due to the emissions design they have to follow. Just locating the plug sometimes can be a challenge because sometimes they hide behind harness's and other objects if they are not mounted on a bracket somewhere.
We had gotten a wiring schematic. Only thing I recall seeing was the governor ecm back by the radiator.
should note the full model is 52-6fgu35
will have my guy check out what you said
thanks
i wouldn't jump on getting that actuator just yet.
need to find out why the MIL light is coming on...
when the system detects a problem and turns on that light one of the first things it usualy does is put the system into limp mode, this is probably why your throttle actuator is locking into one position and not allowing acceleration.
gm v6 system eh?
does it have ECI system?
look on harness near ECM for a diagnostic connector, should be a 4 prong connector labeled A B C D.
you can jump terminals A & D and turn on ignition and get it to flash the stored codes on the MIL on the dash.
It will probably be in 3 digit codes
when first initiated it should flash like a 116 code to tell you the system is working, then a long pause and then the codes will start flashing. If more than one is there it will do the most prevalent one first and then graduate to the others, it should flash the codes 3 times each. Once it is done it will loop back and start over with the 116.
To clear the codes turn off the ignition and remove the main fuse or battery cable for at least 15 seconds. ( i would wait a bit longer just in case)
If any codes are persistent then you need to repair the problem before it will go away.
Once you figure out what the codes are you can come back and post them here and we can tell you what is wrong.
my guess though is since you replaced the pedal sensor you just don't have it set correctly.