Discussion:
#1 Rec installation

Guys,
I am mostly an IC tech, but I have some electric trucks in our customer base. A couple of days ago I went on a service call for no drive or steering on a Hyster E50XM-27, SN:F108V09281U. I lifted a drive wheel up on blocks, pulled the back cover to access the EV100 controller and contactors.I noticed the 500 amp power fuse was blown, removed and tested, and installed a new one from truck stock. An operator got on, plugged the battery in as I watched and BAM a spark of electricity jumped from what looked to be around the 3 and 4 recs. The fuse did not blow, and no more spark. I had power steering now but no drive. It was late, I ordered new 3/4 recs, and picked up an 1 1/4" deep socket to modify to replace the old ones. Next day- Installed 3 and 4 with heat sink grease, no drive. I attempted to push a directional contactor and 1A in but could never get the wheels to spin. Plugged in my handset and got a -46. 1A stuck closed (not the case), defective #1 rec or a compromised insulator beneath the #1 rec. Returned this morning, worked down to #1 rec, removed it (It is compressed between 2 aluminum blocks, with no covering) and started cleaning up grease from the mounting area and the insulator. I noticed a small hole in the insulator- Problem Solved!, picked up a new one locally for $31, and returned to install. My flight systems book said to put machine oil on the heat sink as I understood and then HS grease on the base and snug down. I opted to use thin film of grease on both sides instead, completed assembly and plugged in. No Drive!! Handset still pulls a -46. I have approval to order a #1 rec and reman card tomorrow, the book says that a defective card can also give you an incorrect code. Let me also mention that either the 3 or 4 rec had a small burned area on the side of it. My questions:
1 What is the correct way to install the #1 rec and are there any shortcuts to keep from disassembling the whole spider?
2 Any ideas as to what would cause this failure?
3 Why can't I get my wheels to spin. I also pushed in the RB contactor and FW. I pulled the battery yesterday and confirmed no shorts and good continuity through the field windings and commutator?
Thanks for any help.
Steve
  • Posted 11 Dec 2009 13:37
  • By Forkliftt
  • joined 13 Jul'09 - 321 messages
  • Louisiana, United States
Showing items 1 - 5 of 5 results.
personally i never was a huge fan of those aftermarket #1 Rec's, i always went back with the OEM (black square block) ones. As far as the replacement proceedures? sorry but removing the spiderblock is part of it since it screws directly to the #1Rec, No way around that. And due to the nature of this problem i would check that spider block too and make sure it isnt damaged, maybe even replace it anyway just in case, they arent that expensive.

Just make sure you mark the wires to thier respective connections to the other rec's when you disconnect and remove them.
Since you had a blown drive fuse and a blown out #1Rec i'd check the motor also and make sure nothing is wrong there, shorted or whatever. Do this before you install those new parts.
  • Posted 10 Dec 2012 07:19
  • Modified 10 Dec 2012 07:21 by poster
  • By swoop223
  • joined 23 Mar'12 - 3,691 messages
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
the #1 rec you describe; " #1 rec, removed it (It is compressed between 2 aluminum blocks, with no covering", is a flight systems replacement rec, and one of the natural properties of a SCR is that the wafer must be correctly compressed. you should not have removed the screws holding the 'pancake' between the blocks, if you did, you will need to correctly remount and torque the blocks and pancake, or get a new #1 rec. I am not sure if flightsystems website has instructions on remounting and torquing the scr. but it is a.biz website for fsip.
  • Posted 8 Dec 2012 10:53
  • By edward_t
  • joined 5 Mar'08 - 2,334 messages
  • South Carolina, United States
"it's not rocket surgery"
I would wager #1 is shorted also, and no there is no shortcuts to removal however you should be able isolate(disconnect from circuit) the rec terminals and check them in place,(a wireing diagram would help) thats why it is important to TEST recs while they are out or isolated with a handyman tester (most times a good multimeter may pick up a shorted rec also ). You only want to dissassemble something like that only once. Had similar problem on a Clark ESM not long ago. Before you place your parts order check ALL recs for problems.Made the mistake of ordering #3 and#1, which ended my fuse blowing short, only to have it PMT, (#2 was also shorted). I would hold off on a new card however -46 is not an incorrect code from what you are describeing.
  • Posted 8 Dec 2012 09:55
  • Modified 8 Dec 2012 10:54 by poster
  • By snowmonkey
  • joined 13 Oct'12 - 36 messages
  • Alberta, Canada
You will also have to also push the line contactor in to get the wheels to spin. The one that closes when the key switch is turned on. Sounds like your #1 is shorted. If you push the line contactor and just one of the F or R contactors, without touching the 1A, and it runs, that proves the #1 rec is shorted.
  • Posted 8 Dec 2012 05:44
  • Modified 8 Dec 2012 05:45 by poster
  • By mrfixit
  • joined 11 Dec'08 - 1,434 messages
  • New York, United States
ran into a very similar problem. diagnosed electrical circuit for hours and no luck. dis-connected one motor at a time and ran to see if fuse would blow. conclusion was that one of my brake calipers were locked up and wouldnt let the motor turn. power was still being apply to motor yet wouldnt turn. check your brakes
  • Posted 8 Dec 2012 01:46
  • By matt_gtech
  • joined 8 Dec'12 - 1 message
  • Tennessee, United States

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