Guys,
I am mostly an IC tech, but I have some electric trucks in our customer base. A couple of days ago I went on a service call for no drive or steering on a Hyster E50XM-27, SN:F108V09281U. I lifted a drive wheel up on blocks, pulled the back cover to access the EV100 controller and contactors.I noticed the 500 amp power fuse was blown, removed and tested, and installed a new one from truck stock. An operator got on, plugged the battery in as I watched and BAM a spark of electricity jumped from what looked to be around the 3 and 4 recs. The fuse did not blow, and no more spark. I had power steering now but no drive. It was late, I ordered new 3/4 recs, and picked up an 1 1/4" deep socket to modify to replace the old ones. Next day- Installed 3 and 4 with heat sink grease, no drive. I attempted to push a directional contactor and 1A in but could never get the wheels to spin. Plugged in my handset and got a -46. 1A stuck closed (not the case), defective #1 rec or a compromised insulator beneath the #1 rec. Returned this morning, worked down to #1 rec, removed it (It is compressed between 2 aluminum blocks, with no covering) and started cleaning up grease from the mounting area and the insulator. I noticed a small hole in the insulator- Problem Solved!, picked up a new one locally for $31, and returned to install. My flight systems book said to put machine oil on the heat sink as I understood and then HS grease on the base and snug down. I opted to use thin film of grease on both sides instead, completed assembly and plugged in. No Drive!! Handset still pulls a -46. I have approval to order a #1 rec and reman card tomorrow, the book says that a defective card can also give you an incorrect code. Let me also mention that either the 3 or 4 rec had a small burned area on the side of it. My questions:
1 What is the correct way to install the #1 rec and are there any shortcuts to keep from disassembling the whole spider?
2 Any ideas as to what would cause this failure?
3 Why can't I get my wheels to spin. I also pushed in the RB contactor and FW. I pulled the battery yesterday and confirmed no shorts and good continuity through the field windings and commutator?
Thanks for any help.
Steve