This problem turned out to be a screwed up firing order. I got the machine not running. I went with the firing order that was on the new distributor cap. Whatever that was it was wrong. The correct firing order is 1 3 4 2 and the rotation is clockwise, in case anyone else runs into this problem.

actually I have not even looked since I posted the message, I hope to get to it tomorrow...

Hi,

Yes I checked. All the rubber is where it should be.

whoops double post

did you check for the o-ring i described earlier?

I am having a similar problem with a Yale glc0050. It operared fine yesterday morning, then all of a sudden yesterday afternoon it started acting like you described. Have you found a solution?

even though theres flow it may not be enough pressure to run the machine
and youll get some flow with the o-ring in there where its not supposed to be
ive gone to calls where they had 2 get stuck in there lol
the minimum inlet pressure for the vaporizer to work is 30psi
when all is right the normal pressure is about 60 - 90psi on the high pressure side

the outlet pressure is 1.5psi (theres a 1/4" pipe plug on the back you can hook up a fuel pressure test gauge to) not too much over 2psi and it wont run (dont try to test the pressure on the high pressure side AND be super careful on the low side the vapor is VERYYYYYYYYYYY flamable lol)

also check your fuel lock off
it might be vacuum controlled (this will be around the size of the model J but with a line into it from the tank and a line out to the vaporizer + a vacuum line from the carb, make sure the vac line didnt fall off either or is loose)

or its controlled by an electric shutoff solenoid
check the wires to it

try not to blast propane jets into open air from disconnected propane lines
this is a good way to cause an explosion lol (overhead heaters etc)

thanks Justin. This is a machine I picked up at auction. I'll check the o ring, but we took the propane line off before the Impco regulator and the propane was flowing, so we think it is stopping there. Can they clog? Here's the link again

http://www.youtube DOT com/watch?v=BqeCqfEkFPQ

Well that didn't work. If you search pelletizergroup in youtube you'll see the video

did this issue start after changing the tank?
the 1st thing you check (and you should always check when changing the tank) is that the o-ring that seals the connection didnt come loose get lodged in the wrong part

the coupling (the brass fitting on the end of the hose) should have NO RUBBER PARTS when you look in it you should just see brass and a chrome center

all the rubber parts are on the tank side of the connection but 1 of them can come loose and cause a hard or no-start or just make the machine run crappy in general

if there is a rubber ring in there CAREFULLY tap the coupling face down on the counterweight to knock the ring loose and it will fall out

double check the fitting on the tank
there should be a square cut o-ring on the outermost part of the inside and a round (normal) o-ring in a bit on the inside of the tank's valve

this sounds like its your issue
if the model j was bad it would most likely flood the engine
you would get a heavy propane odor and ether woulndt help (i dont use ether ever)
the fact the ether fires it tells me the spark is there although id prefer to visually inspect this

also proves the timing is ok

check that coupling for an errant o-ring
this is a very common cause of no-starts and i make a good deal responding to them

USE HEAVY LEATHER WORK GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION WHEN WORKING ON PROPANE OR JUST CHANGING THE TANK
PROPANE REFRIGERATES AS IT BOILS (at room temperature and no longer under pressure in the tank)
TEMPERATURES ARE WELL BELOW 100 DEG BELOW 0 (its boiling point is -44 the rapid expansion causes refrigeration thats much colder)
IT WILL BURN YOUR SKIN AS BAD AS FIRE WILL

this site also blocks URL's and emails so you have to do a lil editing to your links
like this:
youtube.com /watch?v=BqeCqfEkFPQ
or
youtube DOT com/watch?v=BqeCqfEkFPQ

if you need help my email is in my profile