Thank you in advance for any advise or help you can give us. We have a 1994 hyster 50xm mazda LP and occasionally it clicks when we try to start it. We've found that if we hold the key over to the start position while moving the shift lever from forward to reverse, it eventually will start and as it should, only in the neutral position. Some times it will act up many times in a row through out the day and other days it may happen only 2 or 3 times. A brand new starter has been installed twice now by our local forklift guru, but we've now lost confidence. Again, thank you for any help. Respectfully, Tom
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good job tommy
you don't know how many starters i've seen get replaced that didn't need to be because of bad connections, i've even done it a time or two during my career before wising up and following the normal protocol in starting system diagnostics. The time it takes to do this far out weighs the needless spending of money on pointless parts.
factory warranties also get rejected alot more because of this same issue, some tech's just didn't seem to want to check out the circuits thoroughly before ordering a starter or a battery.
your most welcome and come back anytime you need help :o)
You guys are great ! Late this afternoon we had the time and thoroughly cleaned every connection you had mentioned. There were only a couple of connections that looked dirty. The ground cable from the battery at the engine block and the small micro switch that is the center / right one had slight corrosion on its connector. We slightly adjusted the left side micro switch so it didn't touch at all when it is in the neutral position. We also cleaned the wire connector that hooks up to the starter solenoid, it was in need of cleaning also. Every connector got a dab of dielectric grease and we checked the battery for full charge. After all that---IT NOW WORKS AND STARTS JUST GREAT !!!!! and NOOOOo CLICKING NOISE !!!!! Thanks to all of you guys, life and work at Cal Turf is a little nicer tonight !!! We are grateful as well as humbled that guys like yourselves would take the time to share your knowledge and expertise with a complete stranger. Thank You again !! Tom
Well said swoop- I hadn't had a connection problem yet (in the starter circuit) on trucks this new- but on older lifts I've found multiple connection issues at different connectors in the wiring harness. I've also found that once there's an issue- there's always gonna be an issue. Installing an auxiliary starter relay/solenoid is a permanent repair.
check the voltate at the S terminal on the starter
it should be battery volts...
if it is anything less than battery volts when you turn ignition to 'start mode' then check for resistance in the circuit.
you could try using a jumper wire straight from the battery to the S terminal and see if the starter will turn over then, if it does then you have a problem in the control circuit. If it does not then the problem is in the starter solenoid.
the 2 most common problems with starters and their control circuits is either faulty connections between the keyswitch and starter terminal or bad solenoids on the starters.
But before you even do this make sure the battery is fully charged, that can also be a major factor in a starter failing.
Ok, I'll check those tomorrow and give a follow up report on the findings hopefully tomorrow evening. We can't say thanks enough for your coaching ! Talk to you later. Respectfully, Tom
You say that the starter solenoid just clicks when it is acting up?.....this seems to me that the neutral start is ok and there is voltage going to the S post of the starter....would check for corrosion in those switches in shift lever and battery connections and cables for corrosion...also the Keyswitch may be the culprit...
We just put our email address in our profile. Hope we didn't short circuit anything.
Remove the @ and insert AT and remove the. And insert DOT....the website strips out readable emails
Sorry about that. We're new to this web site as of only a few hours ago and honestly didn't expect such a rapid and knowledgeable response. This is great! Our email add. is [email address removed] If you have any other info. that you think we'll need, please send it on over. Thanks a million !! Tom
Might be just a simple adjustment or only one switch that is sticking or acting up,look at it first to see....
We have a truck load of pipe to unload first thing in the morning but after that I'll be anxious to take that steering column apart. In your experience would I be smart to replace those switches, given the age of the forklift "1994" 2200 hours"? Or should a possible adjustment do the job ? Either way I can't wait to check it out!
Yes the two middle switches are both neutral safety switches....
Have an email to put in your profile??
I've seen the small switches in the steering column behind the shift lever and was wondering if they could be the problem. I'll take that area apart one day this week and see if everything looks ok or better yet I'd probably be smart to order the switches from hyster and replace them to eliminate those as the culprits. Is the neutral safety switch that you mentioned one of those switches that is in the steering column behind the shift lever? Or is it in a different spot? Thank you so very much for your assistance and time!! Tom
The shift lever actuates 4 switches, two for FWD and two for REV......in the neutral position all four switches are to be closed,check to see if you have a switch out of adjustment or not making contact when closed....
The serial number is d177b04286p and the shift lever is on the steering column on the left , up is forward ,center is neutral, and down is reverse. Geese, thank you for taking the time to help!! Tom
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