Mitsubishi FG25N:
Trans slow to engage

I've serviced the trans, replaced filter screen,check shift solenoid for operation, cleaned out filter screen in valve body, replaced orings on valve body and shift solenoid, cleaned out valve body, gaskets are good both on valve body plate and valve body to trans, filled with new fluid.
Trans was slow to engage before work and slow to engage after work.
Shift trans into gear slow to respond, once engaged, trans is strong , step on inching pedal, trans slow to engage after releasing inching , adjustment is good.
Any ideas?
  • Posted 17 Jun 2016 05:12
  • Discussion started by britain_w
  • Washington, United States
Mechanic
Showing items 1 - 5 of 5 results.
Try disconnecting the cable or linkage for the inching spool altogether & see if that makes a difference.
  • Posted 22 Jun 2016 05:24
  • Modified 22 Jun 2016 05:27 by poster
  • Reply by bbforks
  • Pennsylvania, United States
bbforks (at) Hotmail (dot) com
Customers love technology- until they have to pay to fix it!
when you cleaned / changed the old screens what did they look like?
alot of debris in them?
  • Posted 19 Jun 2016 04:50
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
All screens have been changed, shifting is the same as inching pedal-slow to engage. Figured out it's a pressure problem, only thing left is the pump.
  • Posted 18 Jun 2016 00:41
  • Reply by britain_w
  • Washington, United States
Mechanic
when you changed the fluid (an assumption since you said you put in new fluid?) did you clean the sump screen at the base of the case? It is located behind a plate with 3 bolts holding it on. These are notorious for getting clogged up after a while if there has been a long interval between transmission services. Or was the filter screen you speak of the one located at the strainer/fitting located under the solenoid valve ?.


what pressures are you getting when you do pressure test?

there are 3 test ports on that xmission control valve for checking pressure for main pressure, clutch pressure, and torque converter inlet pressure.

The one on rear of valve nearest engine is torque converter
The one next to it near the center of the valve is main pressure
The one towards the front near the directional solenoid valve is clutch pressure

checking at idle:
main pressure: 134 - 169 psi
clutch pressure: 132 - 166 psi
torque converter: 14 - 72 psi

checking at 1600 rpm
main press: 145 - 188 psi
clutch press: 142 - 185 psi
torque conv: 14 - 72 psi

you will need to check these pressures to correctly diagnose the problem if it is pressure related.
  • Posted 17 Jun 2016 21:34
  • Modified 17 Jun 2016 21:36 by poster
  • Reply by swoop223
  • North Carolina, United States
You've been swooped!
swoop223@gmail.com
How is it if you shift forward/reverse without touching the inching petal?
  • Posted 17 Jun 2016 20:54
  • Reply by mrfixit
  • New York, United States

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