I set my clearance to 0.5mm and adjusted even closer and backed the springs off to minimal resistance to see if that made a difference and it does the same thing. When I flip the "TOW" switch it pulls inner and outer brake armature in no prob.
My battery is low from the unit sitting, twenty three point something volts is what I remember last. 23.8 I think
(It's been a week since I last worked on it) I will check tomorrow and even plug another 24v battery that I know is fully charged into the unit.
The Service Manual that I have is for an older SP48 and appears that most components and wiring are the same but not all. That alone could be what I am missing but this manual has been the closest thing I could get my hands for this unit. From what this manual shows TP5 on the brake module is the brake release input and that no input here means the problem is wiring switches etc somewhere before the module.
This manual shows the K2 brake, K3 steer angle relay and the height limit switches interacting and dropping in/out under various conditions.
The procedure must be different from the first time I step on the pedal and the machine works, compared to the second time I step on it. This book keeps bringing me back to the K3 relay not energizing the second time but I can't find it's missing input, if indeed I am looking in the right place for the problem.
I will check battery voltage tomorrow and try another battery and will post back. I appreciate your response and am open to any more suggestions or thoughts. Thank you

Couple of questions; what is the battery voltage (not advertised voltage, actual measured voltage) and what is the airgap on the brakes (airgap is the measurement between the brake platen and the magnet body when the brakes are not released)? The airgap is crucial to keep under.040" so that the magnets can overcome the gap and release the brakes properly.

I am working on a Crown SP3205-30 serial# 1A266899. Originally the brakes were dragging and upon investigation the outer brake coil was not getting voltage due to a bad brake module. There was also a burnt circuit on the distribution panel to the brake module so I replaced both.
When I power up the truck and step on the brake pedal it works perfect. I can drive in both directions and all functions work. However when I release the brake pedal and then press it again to go, the display says "BRAKES" and the unit won't move.
I checked the brake module test points and found that I lose input voltage to TP5. Does anyone have any suggestions about this? Why would the unit release the brakes work fine until the first time the brakes are applied? Frustrated!
(Sorry to ask this way by bombarding another post but I kept getting an error when I sent this question)

Can you watch the motor while someone drives it and see what the brushes are doing when this happens? Big flash would mean it electrical, no flashing would seem it's something mechanical.

Ok so I'm back in the same spot.
This truck is still giving the same symptom as last time. When I plug the motor makes a horrible noise (metal on metal) and stops the truck instantly.
the drive motor upper bearing, drive motor lower bearing on the pinion shaft and the upper drive unit bearing at the base of the pinion shaft have all been replaced, new shims and all, including the base plate.
When I swap out motors from one truck to another the problem stays with this truck,
The plugging diodes have all been changed out and aside from changing out the oscillator card I'm at a loss any ideas?

TruckTech was dead on right, replacing the upper bearing fixed the problem. I've done several now, most of the time the bearing is pulverized and comes out in many little, greasy pieces.

Tip, always press the bearing into the power unit frame, then install the drive unit. Never the other way (onto drive unit and then attempt to raise into the frame)

I'm having this same problem. its a sp3010-30, I've done pretty much everything you said. there are two bearings in the drive unit for the drive motor, the one on the bottom of the pinion shaft and the one in the middle of it. did you have any luck when you replaces the lower one before i drop this drive unit out of the truck?

please respond to this

Check the top drive unit bearing. I'd bet you the ball seperate ring is broken ans all the ball bearings are shifted to one side. It's apain in the A$* to remove the drve unit,but it's the only way to inspect the bearing.