TCM FG25N2:
TCM won't crank/running rough...

I was recently given a TCM FG25N2 model lift. The Lift is fairly clean, no leaks, and was in working condition. The original owner said the lift started running rough like the carb was in need of a rebuild. Well he had someone rebuild the carb, and it still is not right. The lift has not been worked on in a few months, but I loaded it up and brought it to my shop. I put clean gas in it, and a fresh battery in it, and it didn;t want to crank. It did sputter a couple times. I gave it a shot of starting fluid, and it would kick over, but wanted to backfire thru the carb. I'm new to forklifts, and not sure at this point what to look for. I would assume the backfiring means a timing issue. I am going to check the timing, replace plugs, wires, etc... and try it again. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks ~Jackson
  • Posted 1 Mar 2009 13:02
  • Discussion started by jackson
  • Georgia, United States
Showing items 1 - 5 of 5 results.
Condensation in dist.Change rotor,May be arcing though it.How much play is in dist.shaft.If its worn ,Install electronic coversion.
  • Posted 7 Mar 2012 14:31
  • Reply by kent_w
  • North Carolina, United States
Find the problem yet?

If not contact the Doc.

Regards
  • Posted 16 Mar 2009 11:47
  • Reply by Drlifttruck
  • Texas, United States
Lift Trucks all the same, just painted different colors.
Doc
Email: kulsh@forkliftservice.net
yeah i never understand that
the set is like 6 bucks at most for both parts

plus they usually give you.018-.022 for the gap
i always set em at.020" and replace the condenser and those old trucks usually fire right up

remember to disconnect battery negative
and after that short out the points with a screwdriver so you dont get a shock from the coil
turn the engine to get to the apex on one of the little cam lobes in the distributor
(turn the by hand with the battery disconnected- i believe theres a spot to stick a large screwdriver in the top of the bellhousing to slowly turn it by the ring gear)

for how cheap they are
to know theyre good and set right it takes 1 thing out of the equation, theyre worth every penny
  • Posted 5 Mar 2009 08:13
  • Modified 5 Mar 2009 08:15 by poster
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down
They had replaced the point when the carb was rebuilt, however the condensor appears to be old. I'm not sure why they would change one without the other, but I will replace both in the morning. Then engine is an H-20 Nissan. Thanks for the help.
  • Posted 5 Mar 2009 08:03
  • Reply by jackson
  • Georgia, United States
did you change the points and condenser?

look on the left side of the motor (as is youre sitting on it)
there will be a flat machined surface there with numbers stamped on it
post those numbers here (H20 A15 or J15 most likely)

dont set the points with a matchbook
get a feeler gauge and set them to.020"
  • Posted 5 Mar 2009 05:40
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down

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