Repairing a cableform controller from a Clark TM12. Got it working after a long ordeal. It seems to work fine until the rhs motor gets to a certain speed (in the air) and then it sparks a bit and oftern the controller will shut down and won't work again until the battery is disconnected. I think this may be by design but would like confirmation. Nobody wants to pull the motor out and work on it unless it truly is the culprit. regards jmhgill at hot mail (if anyone has a manual or troubleshooting guide it would be appreciated.)

By the looks of your serial # you may indeed have a cableform control panel. If the panel flips up and extends over the battery compartment...it's cableform. They came in 3 voltages 12,36,& 48. We called them "Quazar"...works in drawer. They did not last too long in production as the EV100 system was by far easier and cheaper to repair not to mention trouble shoot. If you tilt ahead on a 4x4 and get both wheels off the ground try steering side to side and check that it's not in the steering switches ,they are right under the panel easy to spot and check. The acc. unit is not really serviceable other than blowing out the dust or drying moisture. Only one switch involved , you can check the sweep of the linear pot at the plug connection. Hope you get a schematic you'll need it ! Good luck , Fergie

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All the TM series of lifts I've seen had the EV100 system in it. I've not seen a European version though. If your Pot doesn't hit its peak the bybass won't kick in. As far as the switch set up you mentioned that would difficult to set up unless your truck is a Resistor truck with the switches and contractors already in it.Have you verified that there is no mechanical binding in the drive system. I'm assuming your battery voltage is good also.If your Pot has a flat spot in it would travel smoothly until it gets to that spot. You should see that on ohms with your volt meter.

I don´t think it has the EV100 controlpanel. Last lead I have on the panel are an old Boschsystem or cableform.
I will try to check the voltage from the pot, but when the wheel are off the ground the speed can be regulated....at least the wheel has different speed when pressing the pedal down approximate half way.
I also have a wild thought. Is there any way to bypass the pot function to regulate speed. For example put something around the highspeed contactor that put it in "halfspeed" instead of highspeed or maybe a swith that has low/half/high (3 step)?

Thats sounds great! mathias at truelogic dot se

Hello I have some Clark manuals, type me an email

Have you checked your accelerator pot voltage on the terminal screw on the EV100 card? I'm going off memory should be TB1 and sweep from 3.6 volts to 0. With pushing in the 1A contactor your bypassing the SCR system. Meaning it's going to be in the SCR panel. Are there any fault codes? Its possible you could have the thermal protection sensor failed open and it's in thermal cut back I'm going off memory again Black and Gray twisted wires.

Yes thats correct. Its almost like it dont have enough power to move. When I tried to shut the highspeed contactor it works in highspeed even on ground.

So NO travel when on the ground?