Clark NOT SURE OLD:
Water in oil

Looks as though I have a head gasket gone, what do you think? Are there parts available for real old Clarks. Where would I get them? Is it worth changing the gasket or is this machine scrap iron? How big of a job is it and how much would it cost to have it done, got any ideas.
  • Posted 6 Aug 2008 13:05
  • Discussion started by thibs53
  • Maine, United States
Showing items 1 - 15 of 15 results.
The parking brake on the old C models was a pulley looking sheave & wedge assy in the bellhousing. They didn't work to well even when brand new- stopped working altogether once worn. There is an adjustment inside the bellhousing at the wedge assy- just wouldn't count on an adjustment being the culprit.

Replacing the wedge assy is quite an undertaking- you have to work from under the truck, up through a hole in the bellhousing- doable but tricky & time consuming.
  • Posted 4 Jun 2013 08:42
  • Reply by bbforks
  • Pennsylvania, United States
bbforks (at) Hotmail (dot) com
Customers love technology- until they have to pay to fix it!
ez fix see this every time i change oil in an clark u just need to runn the truck more if u dont the inside of the engine will rust casueing valve seals to fail bruning oil run run run that truck
  • Posted 4 Sep 2008 19:17
  • Modified 4 Sep 2008 19:19 by poster
  • Reply by dantheman
  • New Hampshire, United States
thibbs, all those parts on fleabay cheap. change the seal under drum as it wets the shoes and the operator over adjusts the cable tension{on the handle}. the handle eats through the rivets,the backing plate twists and the cable gets miserable. mike aloris
  • Posted 15 Aug 2008 08:21
  • Reply by aloris
  • New York, United States
Thanks Edward t, appreciate the guidance and will do.
  • Posted 11 Aug 2008 22:46
  • Reply by thibs53
  • Maine, United States
make sure you have a 180 degree thermostat. and that the motor runs at least 45 min every other month (this will steam the humidity and condensation out of the oil through the crank case vent system), also make sure the crankcase vent system works freely (some truck just had a down spout, or vent with a wire-wool mesh filter)
  • Posted 10 Aug 2008 22:25
  • Modified 4 Sep 2008 20:12 by poster
  • Reply by edward_t
  • South Carolina, United States
Back to the oil issue. When changing the oil, is there a recommended way to get out as much condensate as possible or am I just looking at running it up to temp, draining out the old and putting in the new? Thanks for all your help JustinM. Regards, Mike
  • Posted 10 Aug 2008 21:17
  • Reply by thibs53
  • Maine, United States
i know for sure that the C500's had a trans brake for that
this may too

on the c500's its a small brake drum on the engine side of the tranny towards the bottom

look there
i would guess its shoes
idk if disks were around in any sense when this truck was made lol
its either that or an exposed drum and lining (with the shoes outside the drum)
follow the linkages you might have to get under it depending on the clearance and the size of your head you might have to jack it up lol
be careful
use jackstands or blocks
even then ill try to use a mirror and drop light as much as i can
  • Posted 9 Aug 2008 17:25
  • Modified 9 Aug 2008 17:28 by poster
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down
Okay, now that is solved here is one more. Tell me about the handbrake? Foot brake works fine, Hand brake not at all, two seperate mechanisms. I see the handbrake lever is connected to another lever going to a bell housing? that part appears to be connected and operating. Is there an adjustment to it? Is this brake pads, disk or some other system. Where might I get a detailed maintenance manual? Regards, Mike
  • Posted 9 Aug 2008 06:06
  • Reply by thibs53
  • Maine, United States
MMMMMMMMMM.......Chocloate Milk......Yummy....lol
  • Posted 9 Aug 2008 05:53
  • Reply by Prentice
  • Ontario, Canada
thats a little low but that engine is probably 20 years older than me and works good

i remember the 1st time i saw this
i thought the same thing till one of the old timers told me about the condensation

now when you drop the oil in an old clark you can laugh at the milky whiteness lol
  • Posted 9 Aug 2008 03:01
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down
You got it. Checked compression at 96, 96, 98, 100. A little lower than you expected but plugs were dry, no smell of antifreeze, no white smoke, all looks good. I feel lucky today. Thanks much!
  • Posted 9 Aug 2008 01:32
  • Reply by thibs53
  • Maine, United States
yeah id say its just condensation if its running real well
looks like melted ice cream huh? lol

thats an old continental engine
theyre pretty tough even for their age (old troopers)
they hold up well

parts should be available since there was a lot of these engines produced
you may have to go to an engine rebuilder to get them if the clark dealer cant help

if the head gasket was blown itd show signs of it under load most likely
is see continental compression ratings between 125 and 145 in my cheat sheets
id take compression and look for anything weird and make sure all cylinders pop off within 10% of each other

if it was burning antifreeze you would smell it when you stood behind the machine when it was running
and most likely see white smoke from the tailpipe
  • Posted 7 Aug 2008 13:56
  • Modified 7 Aug 2008 13:59 by poster
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down
The model is a c40mb-193-782. It is a flathead. It is a unit that would have been started and stopped in short periods and maybe condensation is the answer, I hope. I see no white smoke, or moisture, out of exhaust. It runs very good without skipping or noticeable audible differences in firing, however, very milky look to oil and lots of moisture on oil fill cap. Last night after running for ten minutes and opening the engine compartment I could smell antifreeze, I don't know if that is a hint but that is what I noticed.Would it start to skip, or could you hear the difference in the firing if the gasket or block is cracked? Is it hurting it more to run it, if in fact, it is a head gasket? What should the plug compression be, I suppose you are looking for an unbalance from one to the other. Any other telltale signs to look for? Are parts available for old Clark forklifts and where would I start to look. Thanks a lot, I appreciate it as I am a new user of forklifts. Regards, Mike
  • Posted 7 Aug 2008 00:13
  • Reply by thibs53
  • Maine, United States
What is the Model and Serial #. It may NOT be a head gasket.
If you start and stop the engine for short periods of time it will build up condensation, as it does not reach operating temperature. Does White smoke come out the exhaust???
If you have a pressure tester for you Radiator- Install, pump up to small pressure, start engine and see if you pressure builds........if so....... head gasket....or cracked block.
  • Posted 6 Aug 2008 22:42
  • Reply by Prentice
  • Ontario, Canada
if its a flat head its really easy
but some of those old clarks get condensation and it looks like a bad gasket
if it runs good, plugs arent fouled, and passes compression tests
then you might suspect this
  • Posted 6 Aug 2008 22:40
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down

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