Discussion:
E23 fault code and dash panel lights keep flashing

I posted this in mechanical troubleshooting but feel like I posted it in wrong place. So I will try again here.
Symptons:
E23 fault code and dash panel lights keep flashing. When I say light I mean all as in the red lights also.
Engine will not throttle up. Will slowly climb to 1800 rpms after I run fast TAS for a while.
Problem occured after lift was pressure washed.
Lift came in with overheating and trans issues.
Work performed so far.
Replaced throttle position sensor.
Replaced throttle accelerator at intake.
Performed switch on 2 sec and off 10 three times to clear system and relearn.
Tried another ECM from another lift.
Unit will not complete fast tas
Voltage at pin 5 is now.63 vlts
Showing 100 % at Throttle and Accelerator angle
Blowed out VCM and ECM connectors.
Blowed out visable wire connectors.
Checked for broken wires at map sensor
Hoping maybe someone has already run across this.
Any help or data on this is much appreciated.
  • Posted 24 Jun 2007 21:16
  • Discussion started by Bass
  • North Carolina, United States
Showing items 1 - 9 of 9 results.
Hmm, Let me make sure we are on the same page here. TPS: Throttle Position Sensor. Located at accelerator pedal lever. Blackwith lever and roller, two phillip screws mount it. Adjustable. The sensor can be replaced but I was once told by someone not to try to adjust the two bolts and jam nuts. If it went bad to just order the whole assy. I have dealt with these before under different circumstances. For instance if the sweep is not set up right engine will have low power and overheating issues.
By the way are you using the 2.41 diagnozer. Maybe I should go back to the older version.
Don't recall seeing:
Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" if disconnecting
connector. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed
Position Learning and Idle Air Volume Learning" if replacing
electric throttle control actuator. (Refer to (EC-13),
"Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning and Idle Air Volume
Learning".)
Or maybe I should clear the values to see this option.???
  • Posted 27 Jun 2007 08:43
  • Modified 28 Jun 2007 10:48 by poster
  • Reply by Bass
  • North Carolina, United States
lol careful woulda have been if he didnt use the power washer lol
talk about learning the hard way
so you changed the entire part the tps is in as i dont think u can just remove it
id say you have oxydation in the plugs then
clean em out and it might start working
i had a customer wash his tier 2 and it was getting all sorts of codes, hard/no start
i cleaned the connectors and no more issues

have fun with this 1

powerwashing isnt covered under warranty lol
  • Posted 27 Jun 2007 07:23
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down
Actually I didn't wash it. One of the shop techs did. He said he was very careful to stay away from ecm and vcm. However not careful enough huh. I have already replaced the tps. Are you saying I should replace it again?
Yet another day has gone by and I still have not got to try everyones bag of tricks. :) Hopefully I will get to work on it first thing in the morning.
Thanks Again for the input.
Hope to crack this case soon.
  • Posted 27 Jun 2007 04:06
  • Reply by Bass
  • North Carolina, United States
We wash these things all the time just got to be carefull. P6000"s normaly used in nasty enviorments here.We normaly leave them running when wased and avoid aircleaner and injector driver ecm area.But stuff happens
These are as bad as the old toyota with fuel control. Harness is the weakest link.Lucky most of the sensors and fuel control on these truck are under warrenty for 3 to 5 years.Would cost customers a war pention if it came out of pocket
  • Posted 26 Jun 2007 19:20
  • Modified 26 Jun 2007 19:22 by poster
  • Reply by proshadetree
  • Tennessee, United States
prosh itd be an E24 if the accel wires were broken

id say if those connections i listed above where good then you might have blown the tps
you might want to try swapping on from another unit (at this point youve tried everything else)
and before you connect a new 1 clean all the connections again with a HIGH GRADE non conductive electrical cleaner and blow them dry
you might want to try cleaning connections 1st before the swap and see if maybe you have some oxidation on the contact tips
but there is a warning about moisture on the plugs when takin apart the tps
im thinkin you probably pressure washed it to death
also you have to change it as an entire unit so just order 2 sets of new gaskets and swap it

and no matter what you do reclean the connections with the cleaner (NON-CONDUCTIVE ELECTRICAL PARTS CLEANER ONLY!!!! no brake cleaner lol) then blow them dry

here are the warnings:

CAUTION:
- Make sure that there is no moisture around connector
when removing and installing throttle position sensor connector.
If there are any water drops, completely wipe them
off.
- Do not apply voltage to throttle position sensor terminal.
- Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" if disconnecting
connector. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed
Position Learning and Idle Air Volume Learning" if replacing
electric throttle control actuator. (Refer to (EC-13),
"Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning and Idle Air Volume
Learning".)
- Do not disassemble electric throttle control actuator.
  • Posted 26 Jun 2007 14:39
  • Modified 26 Jun 2007 14:45 by poster
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down
Must say it sound like broke wires at tps.Wire most likley.Have had relay problems but mostly broke wire.Check where it necks down 2 to 4 in back and goes into harrness up at the throttel body
  • Posted 26 Jun 2007 11:44
  • Modified 27 Jul 2007 22:55 by poster
  • Reply by proshadetree
  • Tennessee, United States
never pressure wash anything that has electronics
this aint your grandpa's c500 lol
blow out with air only
the wires up around the tps and the injectors are very fragile
i had to fix the leads to an assist injector last week that broke off flush to the connector (remove contact pins and solder the wires back on)
they broke from vibrations im assuming
the harnesses in these have had some issues in this area

use the book and the diagnozer together and you should pull through
  • Posted 26 Jun 2007 08:21
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down
@ Etharp
P6000
s/n AT13F0XXXX
1749 hrs
Tried swapping the whole relay box. Just failed to mention.
Hooked up laptop with latest 2.41 diagnozer.
throttle angle at 100 %
Accel angle at 100 %
Thanks for both of your responces. About to pull my hair out on this one. I am a field tech and the way it is going I want get to run the test that Justin gave until tomorrow. Covered up today & very short handed on tech's.
  • Posted 26 Jun 2007 01:15
  • Modified 30 Jun 2007 03:35 by poster
  • Reply by Bass
  • North Carolina, United States
e23 is a code for a throttle position sensor fault:

- Sensor power supply voltage has a malfunction.
- Throttle position sensor signal circuit is open or shorted.
- A malfunction occurs in relation between throttle position
sensors 1 and 2.
- When the fully-closed position learning value was
unusually small or was not learning.

check continuity between theses pins on the tps and the ecm connectors
make sure you unplug both connectors before this test
1 on the tps to 47 on the ecm
4 on the tps to 50 on the ecm
5 on the tps to 66 on the ecm
2 on the tps to 69 on the ecm
also check for shorts between these wires

next the voltages you should get back probing the ecm connector
66 - sensor ground = 0v
47 - sensor power supply = 5 volts
50 - tps1 signal @ idle = approx 0.6v @ 2000 rpm = approx 0.7v
69 - tps2 signal @ idle = 4.5v @2000rpm = approx 4.4v
(remember 2 pots make up the tps)

now on the expected voltages for the tps 1 &2 signals i thikn its a typo for the "@ 2000 rpm" voltages i think they should be reversed
example tps1 signal @ pin 50 @ 2000rpm i would think should be 4.4v opposite of what the book says but im not sure prosh maybe you could jump in on that

with your pin 5 on the tps showing.65 volts i might check for a short between pins 5 (ground) and pin 4 (tps signal1) on the tps connector with it and the ecm unplugged

also this is a shielded cable
the shield goes into the ecm connector at pin 1

applying voltage to the tps (with an ohmmeter checking resistances of the pots) may damage it so dont check it that way

"have a good luck"
  • Posted 25 Jun 2007 07:34
  • Modified 25 Jun 2007 07:46 by poster
  • Reply by justinm
  • New York, United States
New York, New York its a heluva town..you know that The Bronx is up..and I'm Brooklyn down

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