Had a hard code E27 on this ECM controlled Nissan. It`s a crankshaft positon sensor code, but sets with bad coil or plugs. Customer has replaced a coil and plugs...truck runs ok but the code is `latched`on. Unhookng battery will not clear the code. Nissan tech says you need a laptop to clear it. Is this correct?
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i love these kind of jobs
raytech.... fix all those identified problem areas and then get back to us
Hopefully the truck will return back to normal operation once the sensors and connector issues are repaired.
Honestly i'm really surprised the truck ran at all with all these things wrong with it. Going to be a costly repair job for the customer but then again maybe he should be notified that untrained people working on these machines is what causes these kind of problems in the first place. Also that this system was put on there for a reason and from a legal standpoint should not be tampered with by unqualified untrained personnel. It would be a great way to convince the customer to give you his business once you get the truck back running good again. Just a thought ;o)
Good Luck
first let me start with a smiley so everyone knows this is sorta "tongue in cheek" so to speak... :-)
dude, please don't say "difficult" (I'll get stuck with way too much work), say "challenging", that way I can say "don't be afraid of a challenge" rather than "don't be afraid of the difficult stuff"... it sounds so much better...
Thanks for replies! This truck has been messed with by everybody!
They unhooked or broke many sensors. here is what I learned so far:
Local Nissan tech was wrong, laptop was not needed to erase codes, just like some of you mentioned.
Connectors at ECM and left tilt cyl and dash, fnr switch, should be cleaned and have di-electric added
Plastic in the fan can cut wires to crank or cam sensors.
E27 code can be set by coil, bad plugs.
Last post mentioned park brake switch being on might set code P22. Someone removed the switch and the light is on. I`ll install the switch from the sister truck on Monday and test that first.
It is so difficult to work on any truck that`s been messed with by other people!
Hope you all have a good new Year!
I remember a few years back working on a Home Depot Cat C6000 that had a code p22. I had the wheels up in the air performing trans pressure test and the code p22 set. I replaced the fnr switch because I had one in stock, only to find out that this particular truck would set this code with the park brake applied, released the park brake and code went away. Talk about chasing a ghost, live and learn.
Seems we are a dying breed as the youger generation does not want to get dirty hands and heaven forbid the finger nails. I love what i do and it seems in the near future lift manufacturers are going to have to have nanobots built in to "self fix" or some of us will be factory techs with prepaid visa cards and racking up frequent flyer miles or both. I have seen many newbies come and go and most instead of carrying a wallet, tote a spatula in hip pocket. If a young mech would get factory training on lift brand of choice, and has Ase cert they could start out making above decent living.
Ooooooops just noticed he is working with a 2 speed tranny. Just caught he left of the 6 before the LV in model. |Doesn't change a thing as far as switch diagnosis tho.
Thanks, I needed a laff,
in my mind, the confusion I was hoping to avoid was not so much real mechanics, as all those who read this stuff later hoping for a free fix for their equipment.
On another note edward i dont know too many younger mechs that would know what dielectric grease is. I always have a big *** tube of the Dow Corning brand and have several spares. I hand these out along with other stuff to the more promising FNG's. If they impress me enough i will even buy their lunch. If they ask what is this for i gladly take it back and say something to the effect " sorry wrong stuff and hand them a tube of waterless ( useless ) hand cleaner LOL.
I hope there isn't like 2 dozen lo2's running around all of a sudden smelling of vinegar from the left side of steer wheel since i posted that edward. I am hoping there are not any mechs out there that doesn't know the difference but then again ya never know. Thanks for adding that as some would have taken it as RTV instead of the dielectric grease.
I hope no one confuses RCAV8TOR's term "silicone type grease" with RTV silicone [Room Temperature Vulcanizing, AKA 'blue glue'] and makes a lot of work and wifs [weird intermittent failures], I am pretty sure he means "Dielectric Grease" [sold as "spark plug boot grease"], and if he didn't (I would be surprised), I would like to insist that is what should be used.
p22 is basically the fact that, in this truck, there is also a signal from the FNR switch during Neutral, and the dash Panel [P code] is not seeing a signal from either F, R, or N for/in a pretty short/quick period of time.
Ray i posted the following from another post awhile back. Hope this helps.
Same as the F16 code on the Plat 2 series. I call this "Turtle Hand Enigma" or THE. Usually operators will drive up and ask while holding the lever and say "hey whats this mean?" Waaaay more often this is set by operator than actual problem. Operators will in the beginning complain of unit dropping out of drive and they might see a brief flash of the P22. When this occurs is when i start checking into things further. An application of silicone type grease to connector female before connection to switch helps to reduce this if unit is in a very bumpy enviroment. This being a P code on the LO1 / LO2 series and is related to VCM, the P22 will go away when cause is rectified.
Try cleaning the switch wiring connector first
This may or not be applicable to the truck you are working on.
The Nissan truck I had to work recently had an issue of going to neutral and losing mast hydraulic functions shortly after start up.
As this truck was sent to us from a distant facility I have no familiarity with who usually works on it and the cunning of their local operators, but I am always suspicious that someone may have "messed with" seat switch wiring (because I have seen many attempts to defeat the OPSS on a few trucks).
But back to the recent Nissan Platinum truck. I checked the OPSS switch and wiring on the hood and all was well, no signs of tampering.
Next I checked the weather pack electrical connector (near the right rear FOPS pillar) that joins the OPSS hood harness to the chassis harness. Upon separating the halves of that connector a bit of green powder fell into my hand. I extracted the individual terminals from the connector halves for a thorough cleaning and "tightening" and reassembled them with some "no corrode compound" and that took care of that problem.
But the truck was not showing any code because of the problem.
The trouble your truck has may indeed be something amiss with the FNR switch or its wiring.
I would think that if it actually is confined to the FNR circuits the mast hydraulics would continue to operate.
Finally cleared the code with an old OBD2 bargain basement scanner. Have P22 code now (F&R switch) Truck runs fine, revs up and drives. But goes into neutral after warming up. Shut down a few minutes then drive again. It's the fwd and rev switch most likely. Will try one from the sister truck.
I am with edward on the plastic wind up theory and would check those wires and connctors. I have had a couple sensors go out before and is a possibility.
Just for giggles, remove the left tilt cylinder plastic cover and check the 2 connectors that are found there. Sometimes a hasty OM mechanic will just bulldog their grease gun onto the greaser and pull wires fron connector. Also check the tilt cylinder pin and make sure it hasn't backed out and damage/ pulled wires.
When I use my Snap On MT2500 scanner I enter it as a 2005 Nissan Sentra with a 2.5, I can monitor all engine relays, minus the LPG relay, I can see any P0xxx codes, and I can clear a DTC. You could probably access it in non-enhanced mode or Global OBD 2, non manufacture specific. What scan tool are you using?
The Platinum 2 Forklifts with on-board diagnostics did not come out until 2007 I believe, but even on these you can get additional information with a scanner, but the scanner is only useful for engine information or e codes, not F codes
?Isn't truck is a "platinum 2" series, that has push buttons on sides the dash? if so, there are other instructions on how to clear the codes.
Some day, Raytech will get his round tuit out, and add his e-mail to his profile. (or maybe just send me an e-mail and let me know that e-mail came from "Raytech")
I could be very wrong about this but in my experience, on these trucks the -ECM-' (E codes) "limp home" modes were all about engine cutback speeds, and the only things that cut out the transmission were related to Can bus errors or the transmission itself. I am guessing at this point that your problem is actually in the dash, where one of the can bus' "termination" resistors is located (the schematic makes it look like the resistors are in the ECM and VCM, but trust me, one is in the dash) is there any chance that you try the dash from a known good sister truck? the dash can be swapped with no "learn in", as a test. most times the error is that the vcm and ecm are not communicating as the dash can bus 'Knock Out' error, but I would bet an intermittent connection to either the can bus on the dash , or the resistor itself might cause this KO on the can bus, at least in the platinum 1 series it was..
I would be willing to bet that if your scanner had a setting for a Nissan Sentra of about 1999 model year, it may be able to clear codes, but if your OBD2 scanner requires special cards or modules to access those vehicles, you would need that module/card.
OBD2 scanner wont communicate, or clear codes. Perhaps a special model will work on forklifts? The one i have is asking for make and model......no nissan forklifts in menu. There may be one tailored for propane ?
Limp in lets engine run and rev, but will not engage trans for more than a few seconds. All guage lights flash
Another note: The OBD2 scan tool won't be able to display any codes but it should erase them if you ask it to.
The way I see it, engine does not "run fine" if it is in limp mode. I might say it sounds fine at idle, but if it is in 'limp mode; then it does not get proper RPM at W.O.T.
Some day Raytech will find his round tuit, and add his e-mail to his profile so that when we click on his name we might see an e-mail address...
if the code is "active", if you do clear it, it will come right back next key-cycle, this often makes it look like it was not cleared.
E27 being the crankshaft sensor malfunction, you may have a torn wire on the crankshaft sensor circuit. The crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor wires are the 2 sets of wires that go closest to the fan, and as such, may get torn when the fan vacuums up a plastic bag off the floor. We also see this circuit get crazy in trucks where they have 5000+ hours and have never changed out the coil packs and spark plugs, my assumption has been that because those wires run right along side the coil packs, a 'stray' spark looking for a path back to B- found it's way into the harness for the crank or cam sensor I have also seen corrosion in the connection to the ECM cause this code.
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