I've seen people do this. The type of people that do this are either needing emergency use... or are just hacks... and they often don't use deep cycle batteries.

Kevin,
i saw the pictures, as i suspected someone put those 12v batteries in there and rewired it.
most likely doing that to try and either save money or trying to make it run longer, hard to say why.
but they are not the correct ones.
If you're thinking about buying this, personally? i wouldn't unless the seller is willing to change it back to the right configuration.

Email sent

Please keep me posted. I would like to see an SX3000 with multiple wet cell batteries.

I just checked parts breakdown on every model of SX3000 via Crown PSRT and could not find anything but 6v. I've never heard of 12v x 4 walkie. All specs from Crown show 6v x4.

ok if that is a crown SX3000 the specification sheet shows it has 4 six volt batteries totaling 24v. Or an optional industrial 24v battery.
this is according to the specification sheet on that model.
If it does have 12v batteries then those can't be right according to the spec sheet. someone may have put those in there and rewired it, sounds like it to me.
some pictures would help a lot. You can email them to my email that shows in my signature and i'll take a look.
the information i have is straight from crown's spec sheet on that model.

Swoop,
It is a 2008 SX3000. I have photos of the batteries but can't post them. I can definitely see 2 12 volt batteries and there should be 2 underneath those. The 2021 SX3000's I saw at my local Crown dealer weeks ago were 4 12 volt batteries. I just didn't know if the 2008's were the same or the single industrial battery.

In 13 yrs I have never seen an SX3000 with anything other than a single 24 volt battery. Serial number? Doesn't mean it is wrong. Try the procedure I stated in my previous post.

There are 4 12 volt batteries currently in the unit. Is it incorrect?

If it is the SX3000 you were talking about then it will have one 24v battery. If it sat for a year or more with no water, no charge, no use then it is probably shot. You can try to charge it. If the charger kicks off then fill the batteries just to the top of the plates, not to the neck of the filler hole. Then, try to charge them. The batteries are probably so bad that you will need an analog charger to plug into the battery because the onboard charger sees the batteries are too low. If you can get the surface charge above 19 volts then the onboard charger can be used.

well first off i don't know what brand and make model the stacker is.
second, look at how many cells each battery has, 3 cells on each battery makes them 6v batteries, if each one has 6 cells on it then they are 12v.
most stacker units i know of run off 24v, some of the older ones use 12v. I've seen battery pack configurations with just 2 batteries and some with 4.
not knowing the unit make , model i have no clue what you have.

Yes they are dry. I'll see what I can do.

I want to confirm. Is it 4 6volt batteries or 4 12volt batteries. If I recall, it takes 12 volts for the lifting and 12 volts for driving which should then be 4 12volt batteries.

would it be safe to assume you're saying the batteries need water?
ok that might be part of the cause of why they are dead.
what to do is get some distilled water and fill each cell just over the top of the cell plates, do not go much over that because as the batteries are charging the water level will rise. After the charger finishes you can recheck the level and add more till it gets up to the split collar inside the filler hole. When you look inside the cell you'll see it, just don't go past the bottom of that.
Another note about charging:
Run a charge on it, more than likely it will take several hours if they are completely dead. Also some chargers may not want to start up if there is no voltage present at all, newer automatic chargers expect to see a voltage range high enough to allow it to start up to avoid such a high amp draw on the charger, helps keep from damaging it. If you have one like this you can fool it into starting up by jumping across the batteries with the same voltage they are like you would do when you jump off your car. This will trick the charger into starting, leave it for a minute or so and that will let the batteries charge up enough to remove the jumper pack. Once it keeps charging on it's own you can let it run till it finishes or at least for 3 or 4 hrs. It would be better if you let it run till it finishes.

If I put some water in the batteries, how long might it take to get enough charge is they will charge any?

if you're just wanting to move the lift you can get a regular lift and come in from behind and get under it with forks on both sides of the drive tire/unit and pick it up and move it that way. Be careful of the drive unit though, keep the forks wide enough to clear. To help with stablilty you can get a strap or chain and secure the mast to the mast of the forklift to keep it from tipping forward, it will tip forward if you do not have it secured. The only other way is to get the batteries charged (if they will charge). OR replace them. The electric brake can be released if the unit has that option but it has to have power on it for that to work.
I've moved many of these around so the forklift option is the simple way.

A flatbed trailer or an enclosed trailer. You don't need to drive the forklift onto or in one. You can probably rent one from an equipment rental place.