hey. looking for some imput if anyone could help. have a clark gcx25e here at the shop. vin gx230e-1513-9372fb. one of the tech here before me did a headgasket in it and when he set the timing he had it a tooth off. it had been something i had been meaning to get to for a bit, but couldnt find time. a couple days ago it quit running so i figued then would be the best time to dig into it. before i began looking into to no start condition i figured i would get the base timing set. set the base timing then started diging into no start
No start condition- no start no spark at the coil.
the lift has a mitsubishi in it. tested the coil. primary and secondary windings are within spec. the eternal resistor is within spec. air gap on ignitior is spot on, vacuum advance is working properly. tested the ignitor (icm) when cranking it is creating a 10Hz signal (right where it should be) but it is not flashing a ground for the coil. checked the grounds on the lift. engine to neg, distributor housing to neg, chassis to neg, etc are all 0.1 ohm key off and around 3.4 ohm key on. i have used a jumper wire from battery negative to the head and to the distributor housing just for *** with no change.
if i tap a ground jumper to the neg post on the coil it will spark with key on so i know the power side and the coil are both working properly.
im sure this will be somthing simple and right in my face, but if anyone has any insight on what direction i should head besides pushing it into the brook and buying an MCFA product that would be great.
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email me through my profile, i may have some helpful info on that ignition syatem.
OK, is your rotor turning? or can you twist your rotor a lot. Maybe the roll pin has sheared off in the distributor gear and the hole thing is out of time.
Hey. thanks for the reply. i thought it may be the module so i replaced it with one sourced locally with no luck. if i pull the C wire off and crank it is showing a 10Hz signal, but will still not ground the coil. if i take a jumper wire from battery negative and tap the coil neg i will get spark. coil neg wire to ignition module is good, ignition moudle has good ground. ran a jumper from battery neg to ignition moudle to be safe. iginition module is getting 12.3v with key on. messed with the air gap anywhere from.001-.040 to see if that would change anything.
Sounds like you have eliminated all possible faults except cap, rotor and ignition module. If you have the standard electronic Mitsubishi ignition system installed by clark, is it notoriously sensitive to moisture and can some times cause the module to fail. Also, occasionally the wires running through the distributor housing can short to frame or break. That module is available at most automotive parts outlets.
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